Here is the info followed by the question (KISS Mode)

1) D16Z6 Head
2) D16A6 Block
3) Reused D16Z6 HG (Reused since I got to run it maybe 300 miles 5 months ago before the Z6 block spun a bearing)
3a) HG Liberally applied copper spray
4) ARP Headstuds


A) As the motor is running, white smoke is gushing out of the breather port on the valve cover as you would expect from a steam engine.
B) Run breather line to Greddy catch can, still pours out white smoke so I assume it is water vapor.
C) Oil is coming out between the upper radiator hose water neck and the block code, i.e. the space where the head and the block meet.
D) ABSOLUTELY No smoke from the exhaust (Screwy, isn't it)
E) After idling for a while the motor will get really weak.....weaker.....kill. 2-3 minutes.


A1) Am I facing a blown Head gasket?
A2) Do the metal headgaskets actually compress noticeably, or are they like the felt/paper ones where there is obvious crush.
A3) Is there any other way for the coolant to be entering the oil supply in such quantity that it is in fact coming out of the breather port?

 

I would drain your oil and see if its milky. If so, your HG is blown.

 

sounds like a leaking HG to me, maybe not leaking bad enough to produce white smoke however smoke from the "breather" area is usually indicitive of not a blown head gasket, usually that comes from bad rings from what i understand. i say do a compression test first

 

its conceivable the head gasket blew between the oil port and coolant, and not the combustion cylinder.

are you supposed to use copper spray?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Steve91 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would drain your oil and see if its milky. If so, your HG is blown. </TD></TR></TABLE> The first run last night left me with thin oil, I wouldn't exactly call it milky but was the wrong shade for oil that had been in a motor for 20 minutes max and one lap around the block.<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by temp &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sounds like a leaking HG to me, maybe not leaking bad enough to produce white smoke however smoke from the "breather" area is usually indicitive of not a blown head gasket, usually that comes from bad rings from what i understand. i say do a compression test first</TD></TR></TABLE>My train of thought with the valve cover is that the coolant has enough room to make it to the oil passages in the headgasket, hot water hits hot oil and block and instant steam. Now if it was a bad ring, when I pop the head how will I tell? I know if the headgasket was leaking I would be looking at a very clean cylinder -- the burning coolant eating away at the carbon -- but how would I tell the difference with a compression test between a bad HG and a fried ring?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its conceivable the head gasket blew between the oil port and coolant, and not the combustion cylinder.

are you supposed to use copper spray? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Well if it blew beteen the oil port and coolant, I am going to have a long talk with both about playing nice with each other. After reading through the massive archives on reusing the headgasket, the same thing came up numerous times when reusing the metal gaskets -- copper spray. Should I NOT use it the next time around?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dr_latino999 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> The first run last night left me with thin oil, I wouldn't exactly call it milky but was the wrong shade for oil that had been in a motor for 20 minutes max and one lap around the block.My train of thought with the valve cover is that the coolant has enough room to make it to the oil passages in the headgasket, hot water hits hot oil and block and instant steam. Now if it was a bad ring, when I pop the head how will I tell? I know if the headgasket was leaking I would be looking at a very clean cylinder -- the burning coolant eating away at the carbon -- but how would I tell the difference with a compression test between a bad HG and a fried ring?</TD></TR></TABLE>


telling the diff in compression i dont think is possible. but if you have considerably low compression then at least you will have a better idea, once you drain the oil and/or coolant you will be able to tell if its the head gasket or not.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by temp &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">telling the diff in compression i dont think is possible. but if you have considerably low compression then at least you will have a better idea, once you drain the oil and/or coolant you will be able to tell if its the head gasket or not. </TD></TR></TABLE>I am really not looking foward to another batch of bad oil, this stuff is starting to get expensive for .....30 minutes of operation over two days You would think I am sponspering a race team for the quick changes. When I drain the oil (again (AGHHH!)) what exactly am I looking for, poor color and a different texture? Any smell test will fail right off the bat due to winter blues on the nose.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dr_latino999 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I am really not looking foward to another batch of bad oil, this stuff is starting to get expensive for .....30 minutes of operation over two days You would think I am sponspering a race team for the quick changes. When I drain the oil (again (AGHHH!)) what exactly am I looking for, poor color and a different texture? Any smell test will fail right off the bat due to winter blues on the nose.</TD></TR></TABLE>


the oil will be milky, you can always just take off your radiator cap and see if you see oil in there, or drain your coolant and check for oil in the coolant

 

I will be draining the coolant so I can remove the head. When I popped the radiator cap the coolant was fine sans a couple particles of dirt that floated on by that are left over from removing the old paper gasket. I still have about 30 minutes until I can start my work, I'm following that lovely just wait 3 hours until it is damn well cold rule.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dr_latino999 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I will be draining the coolant so I can remove the head. When I popped the radiator cap the coolant was fine sans a couple particles of dirt that floated on by that are left over from removing the old paper gasket. I still have about 30 minutes until I can start my work, I'm following that lovely just wait 3 hours until it is damn well cold rule.</TD></TR></TABLE>


ic. well then i still recommend starting with a compression test since your coolant seems to be fine, that way it gives you an idea of what you may or may not need to do

 

Let me see if I can find the old compression tester, I will let you know of the results in a bit.

 

kekekekekekekekekekekekekekeke

 

Compression Numbers (WOT)
Starting from the Cylinder closest to the Distributor
170 - 30 - 120 - 180

Spark Plug Readings from the cylinder closest to the Distributor
Oil covered - Bueno - Good - Not Bad

Blown Headgasket? If so, how is the oil sneaking into the farthest cylinder?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dr_latino999 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Compression Numbers (WOT)
Starting from the Cylinder closest to the Distributor
170 - 30 - 120 - 180

Spark Plug Readings from the cylinder closest to the Distributor
Oil covered - Bueno - Good - Not Bad

Blown Headgasket? If so, how is the oil sneaking into the farthest cylinder?</TD></TR></TABLE>


30 compression is WAY bad, pull the head and check the gasket. 120 im thinking is the gasket leak, 30 im thinking is bad rings

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by temp &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">30 compression is WAY bad, pull the head and check the gasket. 120 im thinking is the gasket leak, 30 im thinking is bad rings</TD></TR></TABLE> I plan on pulling the head once I get some sleep, If I were to do anything mechanically inclined such as that right now I may well hurt myself. Now here come the questions that are associated with facts.

Cylinder 1
Compression 170
Spark Plug - Oil Covered Tip
Where in anyone's good name did that oil come from?

Cylinder 2
Compression 30
Spark Plug - Happy as can be
If the rings were gone, wouldn't there be a lot of positive crank case pressure AND oil in the cylinder?

Cylinder 3
Compression 120
Spark Plug - Content like everything else
My thought is that the leak is around number two, and number 3 and number one are being affected by it. Number one is getting oil through it possibly, and number 3 is just loosing compression

Cylinder 4
Compression 180
Spark Plug - Lovin' every minute of it
This is my good child, every family has one

Is it possible to get a score of 30 on Headgasket issues alone, or is that a combination of all that could be bad in the world, Rings + Gasket? Last, how the hell does this explain the oil streaming from the gasket area directly above D16A6? I sometimes believe this motor just likes to mess with me to find my bursting point.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

are you supposed to use copper spray? </TD></TR></TABLE>

The real question is are you supposed to reuse a headgasket.

NO.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dr_latino999 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I plan on pulling the head once I get some sleep, If I were to do anything mechanically inclined such as that right now I may well hurt myself. Now here come the questions that are associated with facts.

Cylinder 1
Compression 170
Spark Plug - Oil Covered Tip
Where in anyone's good name did that oil come from?

Cylinder 2
Compression 30
Spark Plug - Happy as can be
If the rings were gone, wouldn't there be a lot of positive crank case pressure AND oil in the cylinder?

Cylinder 3
Compression 120
Spark Plug - Content like everything else
My thought is that the leak is around number two, and number 3 and number one are being affected by it. Number one is getting oil through it possibly, and number 3 is just loosing compression

Cylinder 4
Compression 180
Spark Plug - Lovin' every minute of it
This is my good child, every family has one

Is it possible to get a score of 30 on Headgasket issues alone, or is that a combination of all that could be bad in the world, Rings + Gasket? Last, how the hell does this explain the oil streaming from the gasket area directly above D16A6? I sometimes believe this motor just likes to mess with me to find my bursting point.</TD></TR></TABLE>


the oil for question 1 could come from a leaking spark plug o-ring

part 2, thats a tough one

part 3 it is possible, but the only way to tell is by removing that head and checking the gasket

part 4...hehe

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fourthgenhatchB17 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

The real question is are you supposed to reuse a headgasket.

NO. </TD></TR></TABLE>

from what i understand, you can reuse a metal head gasket. i believe the Z6 HG is metal.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

from what i understand, you can reuse a metal head gasket. i believe the Z6 HG is metal.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Would i chance it, hell no. Should he change it (especially b/c he's having problems now....gee i wonder why), hell yes. LOL.
It's the same thing as the head bolts. Some say and do reuse them with success, some dont. Technically those should be replaced too.

 

well no, technically the a6 head bolts should not be reused. but the z6 headbolts are redesigned so they can be reused.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fourthgenhatchB17 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The real question is are you supposed to reuse a headgasket.

NO. </TD></TR></TABLE> It was a metal headgasket, it was used for 300 miles before I spun a bearing and then left to sit for 6 months. With myself being an abnormaly poor student the reused head gasket with copper spray seemed like a good idea due to the very short run time on the motor.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by temp &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">part 4...hehe</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well no, technically the a6 head bolts should not be reused. but the z6 headbolts are redesigned so they can be reused. </TD></TR></TABLE> Thank god I am using ARPs so I don't have to worry about the headstuds. Also, they were properly torqued down with the nifty moly lube.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fourthgenhatchB17 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Would i chance it, hell no. Should he change it (especially b/c he's having problems now....gee i wonder why), </TD></TR></TABLE> Because I made fun of my Jewish roommate last night? J/P, he's scratching his head as well as I

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dr_latino999 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> It was a metal headgasket, it was used for 300 miles...


Thank god I am using ARPs so I don't have to worry about the headstuds. Also, they were properly torqued down with the nifty moly lube.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

The mileage is not whats important. Its the fact that the gasket has been torqued down and compressed. Its a one time use sort of thing. A new OEM metal head gasket for a sohc isnt expensive is it? I thought its around $40 or so?

And ive heard of people buying new ARP hardware too, but that was on some major high stress (high hp) applications, so yea u should be fine.

About the block you are using...where did it come from? Maybe all these problems are coming from a worn out bottom end in addition to a head gasket problem. Just a thought.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fourthgenhatchB17 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The mileage is not whats important. Its the fact that the gasket has been torqued down and compressed. Its a one time use sort of thing. A new OEM metal head gasket for a sohc isnt expensive is it? I thought its around $40 or so?

And ive heard of people buying new ARP hardware too, but that was on some major high stress (high hp) applications, so yea u should be fine.

About the block you are using...where did it come from? Maybe all these problems are coming from a worn out bottom end in addition to a head gasket problem. Just a thought.</TD></TR></TABLE> OK, I hate to say it but I really feel that fourthgenhatchB17 = The good doctor's conscious You sound exactly like the little voice in my head when I'm in a rush. I forgot the one key property of metal --&gt; it compresses under pressure. A new OEM gasket is about 37$ ish but my bank account after purchasing the correct timing belt left me with insufficient funds to buy one. I thought, "Oh why not." I will have pictures of the combustion chambers in the morning.

PS - Thanks everyone so far, on me if you are CFL for any of the upcoming bowl game series