Thinner head gaskets?
Where can I purchase a thinner head gasket. I'm in the works of making a mini mi. My friend told me that a thinner head gasket raises the compression a very very small bit like .5. I do not really know the exact neither does he. Anywho, where in the world can I purchase one at?
[Modified by deryld, 4:49 PM 3/17/2002]
[Modified by deryld, 4:49 PM 3/17/2002]
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What is the reliability like after peeling away layers of the OEM gasket?
no a good idea, the oem layers are there for strength. by removing layers you weaken the gasket
open hood, pull pin on gernade, throw in engine bay, RUN!
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The gasket will be 100% reliable if you do two things:
*use a spray adhesive on both sides of the gasket. Permatex
*use new OEM head bolts or ARP head studs. go 5 more ft/lb. than spec.
I had a 1 layer silver gasket on my B18C for over a year with no problems.
My friend did the same on his LS/VTEC and is leaked coolant like a bitch. But he barely used any gasket spray. Don't be stingy with the spray. Apply it GENEROUSLY and let it dry completely before starting the motor.
*use a spray adhesive on both sides of the gasket. Permatex
*use new OEM head bolts or ARP head studs. go 5 more ft/lb. than spec.
I had a 1 layer silver gasket on my B18C for over a year with no problems.
My friend did the same on his LS/VTEC and is leaked coolant like a bitch. But he barely used any gasket spray. Don't be stingy with the spray. Apply it GENEROUSLY and let it dry completely before starting the motor.
yea yea, road race ****.
do whatever your heart desires. as long as it gives you some more of the "power in the mid ranges" that road race ***** kill for.

lol.
all i'm saying is that I have never had a problem with mine.
do whatever your heart desires. as long as it gives you some more of the "power in the mid ranges" that road race ***** kill for.

lol.
all i'm saying is that I have never had a problem with mine.
>>What is the normal amount of layers on OEM d16 head gasket?<<
3.
IMO, all the trouble with sealants and reliability aren't worth the small gain in compression. I did a Y7 to Y8 conversion last week. Got the head gasket from NAPA *cheap*. I was a little worried about quality until I pulled the original head gasket and realized it was identical to the NAPA gasket. BTW, the headgasket I got was rivited together on one end, so it would have been rather difficult to seperate layers anyway.
3.
IMO, all the trouble with sealants and reliability aren't worth the small gain in compression. I did a Y7 to Y8 conversion last week. Got the head gasket from NAPA *cheap*. I was a little worried about quality until I pulled the original head gasket and realized it was identical to the NAPA gasket. BTW, the headgasket I got was rivited together on one end, so it would have been rather difficult to seperate layers anyway.
Mike: out of the 3 layers on the OEM gasket which ONE would be the safest to remove without any probems? and how would you remove it if they are rivited togeather?
yea yea, road race ****.
do whatever your heart desires. as long as it gives you some more of the "power in the mid ranges" that road race ***** kill for.
do whatever your heart desires. as long as it gives you some more of the "power in the mid ranges" that road race ***** kill for.
Not all layers are created equal. I know you're talking about D series, but here's the low-down on B series. If you use a 3 layer H-Gasket, then drop to a 2 layer, yes, it's about a .2 bump in CR. But then when you drop from a 2 layer to a 1 layer, your'e looking at about a half point.
I am using the middle layer of OEM b series. No problems so far. ! problem is that I used some cheap *** copper gasket spray and it got into my collant...so when I pop the raditaor caps for the first sevral times I was getting this sludge (the copper spray).
orig. posted by tecnic1"I've found shooting the engine with a high powered handgun much more effective. I don't run very fast. Or you could buy a rotery engine and achieve the same results"
hahahaha
anyway, i say do nothing of the sort..peeling layers away? GHETTO! then again, what do i know, i still listen to Masta Ase
[Modified by builthatch, 9:50 PM 3/18/2002]
hahahaha
anyway, i say do nothing of the sort..peeling layers away? GHETTO! then again, what do i know, i still listen to Masta Ase[Modified by builthatch, 9:50 PM 3/18/2002]
http://www.inlinefour.com has a Mugen 2 layer metal head gasket for $155. I was thinking of getting it since I might have a head gasket leak (see my other post, oil on block/tranny looks like it came out below the header).
-Andrew
-Andrew
i hope your referring to me..if not i apologize....i mean i have this ready at all times to copy and paste...haha
'99 d16 y8 sohc vtec, RADICALLY ported and polished head w/ Web experimental cam, Web double valve springs, Web ti retainers, lightened valves w/ 3 angle, str cam gear, Lightspeed header, copper headgasket, bottom end balanced to 10,000 rpm including 13:1 .050 overbore pistons, shotpeened civic rods, stock polished crank, port-matched 2000 ex intake manifold, BBK 62mm throttle body, first-gen (old school!) AEM cold-air intake, Tanabe G-Power medalion exhaust, MSD retard box, MSD 6al, MSD blaster ss coil, MSD rpm switch,NGK wires and plugs, Integra GSR fuel pump soon to be Holley 255 f/I unit, B18B injectors, Weapon-R fuel pressure regulator, G-Force engineering ECU, Apexi AFC, Apexi ITC. Driveline features 98 ex transmission w/ cryogenically treated internals, Phantom Grip locker, Clutchmasters Stage II clutch, custom stiffened linkage and b&m short shifter w/ bushings-- AutoPower 4 point roll bar with custom cross member, Progress threaded-body struts w/ custom rates and dampening, Eibach tubular upper a-arms, Neuspeed Lower tie and soon to be z10 radius arms--2000 Honda Si 15x6 wheels powdercoated black with Bridgestone potenza RE-730 205/50/zr15--Mugen upper rear spoiler, paintmatched side skirts and moldings, 99 taillights--JVC kameleon cd/mp3 player, Cerwin Vega 3 way 6 1/2
[Modified by builthatch, 8:18 PM 3/20/2002]
[Modified by builthatch, 8:20 PM 3/20/2002]
'99 d16 y8 sohc vtec, RADICALLY ported and polished head w/ Web experimental cam, Web double valve springs, Web ti retainers, lightened valves w/ 3 angle, str cam gear, Lightspeed header, copper headgasket, bottom end balanced to 10,000 rpm including 13:1 .050 overbore pistons, shotpeened civic rods, stock polished crank, port-matched 2000 ex intake manifold, BBK 62mm throttle body, first-gen (old school!) AEM cold-air intake, Tanabe G-Power medalion exhaust, MSD retard box, MSD 6al, MSD blaster ss coil, MSD rpm switch,NGK wires and plugs, Integra GSR fuel pump soon to be Holley 255 f/I unit, B18B injectors, Weapon-R fuel pressure regulator, G-Force engineering ECU, Apexi AFC, Apexi ITC. Driveline features 98 ex transmission w/ cryogenically treated internals, Phantom Grip locker, Clutchmasters Stage II clutch, custom stiffened linkage and b&m short shifter w/ bushings-- AutoPower 4 point roll bar with custom cross member, Progress threaded-body struts w/ custom rates and dampening, Eibach tubular upper a-arms, Neuspeed Lower tie and soon to be z10 radius arms--2000 Honda Si 15x6 wheels powdercoated black with Bridgestone potenza RE-730 205/50/zr15--Mugen upper rear spoiler, paintmatched side skirts and moldings, 99 taillights--JVC kameleon cd/mp3 player, Cerwin Vega 3 way 6 1/2
[Modified by builthatch, 8:18 PM 3/20/2002]
[Modified by builthatch, 8:20 PM 3/20/2002]
Yeah I was refering to you, thanks, I plan on doing this soon so hopefully you can give some tech advice at will to me. Thanks for your help.
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