So, I was driving home today and was downshifting to pass on the interstate and went into fourth gear. A few moments later I went to do it again and the engine stumbled and shuddered and the check engine light came on...no smoke, no stalling, just as if it lost power.

My first thought was, "Great, I just blew my engine!! #@*!!!" The car operated normally and got me home, but whenver I tried to go over 4,000 RPM in fourth gear it would do the same thing. I got home and raised the hood, no leaking and nothing smells burnt. I got behind the wheel and revved the engine and the same thing happens at 4,000 RPM......like its choking. Almost like a rev limiter on a golf cart.

So, are there any techs out there that may be able to help me diagnose this. I hope this is just a simple emissions problem, since the owner's manual states the check light comes on when the emission system fails.

In the meantime I will try and find out any info on reading the error codes by some flashing light...if it exists....I dunno.

Please help?


BTW, the engine sounds just as it did before, there is no ticking or abnormalities other than the shuddering and stumbling past 4,000 RPMs.

-----------------------
1999 Honda Accord Ex
5-Speed
137,000 miles
4 cylinder
Stock, no mods

I seriously doubt it has anything to do with the transmission, since it does it in neutral.

Do ya think it is similar to this Prelude problem:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1443109

-----------------------
Do I need to actually remove my center console to access my ecu? Do I need to access my ecu?
I searched:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1214478


THANK YOU notoriousB you are indeed the ****!!
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=896160


If someone could contact me in real time, I would appreciate it too.

aim: gregsmojo

BTW, I didn't know CEL meant check engine light...


Modified by MuthaFodder at 7:20 AM 12/18/2005


Modified by MuthaFodder at 7:22 AM 12/18/2005

 

Check what the code is throwing first of all.

 

OK, I looped the connector at 5 and 9 and got 2 long blinks and 2 short blinks and that was the only sequence. So, I guess that is a code 22?

*&^---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------^&*

********************I have reached my maximum number of posts so I will edit here and bleow. I don't understand why, I thought that only lasted my first 5 days.....I digress.********************

Anywho, I hope code #22 is externally located on the engine?


After more searching:
Great, I had to get the code nobody can figure out
For reference:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1389269
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1446633
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1440943


Modified by MuthaFodder at 2:11 PM 12/17/2005

 

My little list of codes says #22 is VTEC pressure valve. Manual lists all sorts of special tools for testing (valve or switch maybe). Good luck.

 

Have no idea where it is on your engine. I vaguely remember someone saying near oil filter, could be way off though.

 

check your oil level. sounds like its trying to engage the vtec solenoid.

 

It is not the oil....checked, besides wouldn't (rather shouldn't) the oil light have come on if were low.

The CEL comes on as soon as the engine is turned over, which leads me to believe it is circuitry or a faulty piece of hardware ie. "VTEC pressure valve."

I reset the ECU or at least I think I did by removing the 15amp fuse from the driver's side fusebox. I did that twice.

I have searched here and on HAN and have yet to see specific CEL codes for the 98-02 Accords, or any online manuals like I see for the civics, tegs, and ludes. These would make for great stickys.....otherwise people will head over to the other forums.

I think it should be mandatory for people who come on here begging for help with tears in their eyes "my poor car" get the requested help and then never give a follow-up. WTF.....maybe just maybe your problem will be duplicated by some other poor lad adn he would like to know what the resolution ultimaely was. Follow-ups should be mandatory!! Otherwise people are and will revive old threads asking "So, how did you fix code 22."
I can not tell you how many of these I have seen....sad really.


So, did I reset the ECU properly and does anyone know where to locate this "VTEC presuure valve?"


Now, this was a nice follow-up. Doubt that is my problem though:
http://www.hondaswap.com/forum...51352



Modified by MuthaFodder at 7:40 AM 12/18/2005

 

Ok, I'm not flaming, just giving information. There are copywrite laws against copying manuals. If one person buys a manual and thousands of other people get a free copy of it, the people printing manuals will not make money, stop printing manuals, then where will we be? I hear the forum has an agreement with the publishers not to include manuals. As for the CEL codes, they are the same for pretty much any year or model. The numbers listed in the civic forum match up with my 7th gen manual numbers (each number means the same thing on every car). And finally, I also think posting the solution (if one is actually found) to each problem should be mandatory. Not that it will happen, but we need to stress the importance of finishing off each thread, or as many as possible.

 

Hey, will ya look at that. I'm not a trial user anymore......YEAH!!

I was just wondering about the manuals, since PreludePower had about every one of them online, but they were linked to a European Honda website.


......of course that was only for Preludes


Modified by MuthaFodder at 8:31 AM 12/18/2005

 

Now based on deduction, either I have failed to accurately reset my ECU or there would be a circuitry reason to set it of as soon as I turn the key over.

This makes me feel well enough to believe that the problem is not internally since the CEL is not coming on under driving conditions.

I can see the light come on when the key is inserted and then flickers off for a brief second and goes immediately back on....even before the engine fires.

 

I would print those CEL codes, for future reference. They actually have some on that list, that aren't in my manual. I'm sure if your car doesn't have the item for a particular number, they don't include it in that manual. It's nice to have as many numbers as you can, just to help out others, even if you will never need that number. Life isn't perfect, that's why there's Walgreens, and honda-tech.com.

 

Just pulled my codes again. I drove my car today but very gently....never going above 3,000 RPMs.

I have a new CEL....Allright!!!

It is code 65.........drum roll: "65 Secondary oxygen sensor heater wire (black wires)"

Can someone confirm this as I got a full list of codes here and if these are universal this is an awesome list:
http://www.superhonda.com/foru...pp=15


Note: This code 65 is now in addition to code 22.


I would think this may narrow the problem to electrical and faulty replaceable, yet pricey hardware as suspected.


......any input.


I am at work probrably will not have time to look at this until later today (4pm et and tomorrow 4pm et). So, if folks want to talk this through, I'm all ears


Modified by MuthaFodder at 8:51 AM 12/18/2005

 

Found a few through backwards linking:
http://media.honda.co.uk/car/o....html

 

Here's some more:
http://www.phatg20.net/modules...id=31

 

I don't know how to test your o2 sensor. What you really need is a Helm manual. Haynes or Chiltons are a lot cheaper, but have less information and details. Some testing requires special tools (damit) but it gives you plenty of useful information about your car. It definately tells you how to test the sensors. Even if you can't fix it yourself, at least you'll have helpfull information for the machanic, when you bring it in for service. If you get a new sensor, make sure you get the right one (some have heaters, and some don't). I've heard different things about the Bosch sensors (some say their good, some say not). There are special tools for removing the sensors. Sometimes they can be a bitch to remove. Again, Good Luck!

 

Does a part list exist for the 6th generation accords? Know anyone having success looking up parts through a specific Honda dealer website?

I was previously a Q45 owner and a member of NICO for over 2 years. We would go through a dealer in Arizona that offered discounts and a searchable database online for parts. Anything like that here?


More code lists:
http://forums.torontoaccords.c...85a06


Modified by MuthaFodder at 2:10 PM 12/18/2005

 

I reset the ECU or at least I think I did by removing the 15amp fuse from the driver's side fusebox. I did that twice.

I am suprised nobody noticed that.

Well, I went to Autozone after I watched my Chargers woop the Colts *** (YEA!!), and bought the haynes manual.....was really hoping to come across a good deal on a FSM on Ebay though. Anyway I couldn't wait for that, I also had the codes rechecked there.

At least I had the correct codes. The "P" codes were:
22 = P1259 "Fuel error meter"
65 = P0141 "Heated Sensor Bank 1"

I love living in the South.....people actually don't care to help.

Anyway, the scan tool deleted my codes and on the way back home I didn't drive real hard so the CEL didn't come back on. Obviously, I wasn't clearing the codes correctly.....I'm curious as to why that process isn't in detail to find in searches. Here ya go searchers:

** Info for resetting the ECU or clearing the ECU / CEL check engine light codes:
Remove the 7.5 amp fuse labeled "Clock Back-UP" on the PASSENGER'S side, it is the number 13 fuse on the box, for at least 10 seconds. Do not undo the negative battery cable.....you don't have too. **


I would think that driving it hard set off the codes. I will see tomorrow on the interstate. As for checking the oil / filling the oil, I would rather suggest to go get an oil change OR TO PROPERLY RESET THE CODES FIRST and try and repeat the CEL. The dipstick is the shittiest I have ever seen with 2 dots on it?!? I mean for someone to not know what it looks like after a fresh oil change, would you really trust adding more oil....anyway.
I will get an oil change tomorrow and then drive it hard hitting VTEC and try to repeat the CEL.

Later

 

It would be great if they had a sticky thread, or something, for information about how to jump service check connector, reset computer, reset maintenance light, and so on. Maybe if I had all the information, I could do it. But all I know is the 4th gen and 7th gen. With pics would be even better.

Mutherfodder, this is a dealer website, it at least gives you an idea what the parts cost.

http://www.hondaautomotivepart...h.jsp

This is the page for the 02sensor

http://www.hondaautomotivepart...+PIPE


Modified by BLKFLSH at 7:19 PM 12/18/2005


Modified by BLKFLSH at 7:21 PM 12/18/2005

 

P1259 is VTEC system malfunction (vtec oil pressure switch or vtec solenoid valve circuit)

P0141 is Secondary heated O2 sensor malfunction

There are several pages of testing that go along with the diagnosis of either code.

like blkflsh said...if you wanna fix this crap yourself, you need a real manual - helms is the only way to go! http://www.helminc.com/helm/homepage.asp?r=

 

He already bought a Haynes. Oh well.

 

Yeah, those are good links on finding parts through a dealer....nice.

I wanted a better quality manual, one the dealer uses and made by Honda. But, I also was eager to read up on service issues.

Regardless, I think a few of us should get together and put some info together to make stickys.

 

I think you are talking about the Helms manual if im not mistaken.

 

****UPDATE****

I just put over 200 Interstate miles on the Accord and no lights.

I had an oil change and reset the ECU by the above method a few posts up.

I suspect I set off the CEL by driving harder than I should, as if there was truly something wrong with my sensors or system, I would have set it off again.

So, just remember kids..........if you set off the Check Engine Light (CEL)......you are liable to keep driving under the eroneous condition until you reset the ECU.......again check my post above for the procedure.


Thanks everyone for their time.

 

its your oil pressure, your oil light will only come on if your down to the last drop, but if you oil is low, you vtec will not kick in and your engine automatically shudders to save you engine, from blowing up.............