I feel like an idiot, couldn't do rotor replacement. First I didn't have an impact screw driver to remove those damn screws. Second I was dumbfounded about what to do with the caliper i.e. how the hell to take the damn thing off. I saw in manual at store that you need a c-clamp for something or other. Looks like way too much headache for a noob like me. Even if I did it, I would then be paranoid that I did something wrong, and wouldn't want to drive the damn car LOL.

Joe

What's with this 5 posts per day deal on the forum? driving me nuts. When I want to reply to some one, I have gone over my limit.

 

What's your point? Buy a Helms manual, get a decent set of tools. If you don't have confidence to do something like this. You can either: A. Give up now, and pay someone to do it for you. Or, B: Grow some ***** and do it yourself, and if you **** up, fix it again until you get it right.

We all make mistakes, it's part of life. And the 5 posts per day will go away as soon as your 14 days has ended and you're out of your trial period.

 

there are bolts on the backside of the caliper that you remove the bottom, loosen the top, to swing up up out of the way

Really, just use your head a little...not hard at all

 

Its not a hard thing to do.
And as long as you recheck your work shouldnt be that scarry.

 

10mm, 12mm, 17mm, C-clamp to compress the front caliper pistons, brake piston "cube" to screw in the rear disc caliper pistons (if you have them), a large screwdriver to pry what needs pried and a little patience.

That's all you need.

 

you dont exactly need a c clamp. if you have a pry bar or long screw driver wedge it in between one of the pads and the rotor through the hole in the top of the caliper and pry outwards, away from the car. dont use a cheap screw driver it'll just snap. i personally use my sk 12" screw driver in a similar way almost everyday at work. brakes are not a big deal, once you do them once, you'll be fine.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Archidictus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">10mm, 12mm, 17mm, C-clamp to compress the front caliper pistons, brake piston "cube" to screw in the rear disc caliper pistons (if you have them), a large screwdriver to pry what needs pried and a little patience.

That's all you need.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by erasable180 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you dont exactly need a c clamp. if you have a pry bar or long screw driver wedge it in between one of the pads and the rotor through the hole in the top of the caliper and pry outwards, away from the car.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Do you know what happens when you use the incorrect tools and end up compressing the caliper piston crooked? I do.

Brakes are something you should do right the first time. Calipers are expensive to replace, so I suggest not damaging them in the first place. Get a C-clamp or a wood clamp that you can tighten progressively and use an old brake pad to distribute the pressure evenly to the piston as you compress it.

Can you pry it in with a stick or a screwdriver or a dead gopher? Sure. Will it be fine afterwards? Maybe. Is there a more failsafe way to do a brake job? Yes.

 

Auto parts stores also have this thing they call a break pad or caliper spreader that works quite well as it is designed for pushing that caliper piston back in evenly. Usually No more than 10 bucks either. Nifty little thing to have in the toolbox.

 

may not be the best way, but it's possible to compress a piston crooked with a c-clamp as well. a failsafe way would technically be to use a brake caliper piston spreader, the kit they sell just for retracting brake kits. but you are right maybe using a screw driver is not the best way for a first timer to do it. but if it's his first time, he might expletive it up no matter how he does it.

 

hmmm maybe im doing it wrong but i use a c-clamp to compress the caliper before i swing it upwards, find it simpler like that

 

An easy way I've found ESPECIALLY if your car has ABS, to compress the piston is to: Before you unbolt anything, stuff a large screw driver in there in such a way as to press back on the pad on the piston side. Then open the bleeder valve and push the pad toward the piston. Then close the bleeder while still pressing with some fluid comeing out.
There, done. No dirty fluid being forced back up into the ABS unit spelling potential failure in the future.
I would also advise attaching a hose to the bleeder nipple and something to collect the fluid.