What do you guy do to make sure the blockguard wont slip down to the bottom instead stay on top of the sleeves where they suppose to stay guard. Should i just put it in and done deal or i have to do something else?

 

I think i have heard of people actually welding them in there..

 

The proper way to install them is to weld them in.

Then you need to resurface the block and then check the cylinders for out of round and bore if necessary.

 

is resurfacing a must?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sir boostalot &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is resurfacing a must?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Theroretically thinking yes..

If there is a un-even surface area your headgasket wont seal properly among other things....

 

Actually Vince from GE says not to weld them in. Should be 3/8" below the deck. Bore & Hone after blockguard install.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Das Schmoo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The proper way to install them is to weld them in.

Then you need to resurface the block and then check the cylinders for out of round and bore if necessary.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Actually you should not weld them in. I have they GE blockguard. They simply tap in, then hone after installation.

 

yup mine just taps in. It doesnt move freely once its in so i dont see a need to weld.

 

most tap them in but some others have them machined in.

 

How about you give me 100 bucks (or however much your block guard cost) and I will just kick you in the ***. That will do about as much good as a block guard would.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by beerbongskickass &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How about you give me 100 bucks (or however much your block guard cost) and I will just kick you in the ***. That will do about as much good as a block guard would.</TD></TR></TABLE>

what were you hit with a baseball bat? i have seen multiple pics of engine bottom ends DESTROYED but the cylinders and sleeves were saved thanks to the blockguard.

blockguard != sleeving | but also | blockguard != worthless

getting kicked in the *** is useless, but talkin out ur *** is even more useless

 

I think beerbong was molested by a blockguard when he was young. He really dislikes them for some reason.

 

hahaha

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RyanCivic2000 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Actually you should not weld them in. I have they GE blockguard. They simply tap in, then hone after installation.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Same here, 7k+ miles without issue. Vitara pistons and 18psi from a 14b (not insane i know... but hell... it works).

I installed mine not so much for sleeve "strength", but to help prevent the posibility of sleeves shifting under high rpms and lots of boost. I trust the stock sleeves... i don't trust their movement under high pressure though.

To each his own.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by splitime &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I installed mine not so much for sleeve "strength", but to help prevent the posibility of sleeves shifting under high rpms and lots of boost. I trust the stock sleeves... i don't trust their movement under high pressure though.</TD></TR></TABLE>

This is exactly why I installed mine.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RyanCivic2000 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This is exactly why I installed mine. </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbotime &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

what were you hit with a baseball bat? i have seen multiple pics of engine bottom ends DESTROYED but the cylinders and sleeves were saved thanks to the blockguard.

blockguard != sleeving | but also | blockguard != worthless

getting kicked in the *** is useless, but talkin out ur *** is even more useless </TD></TR></TABLE>

If your block blows a little piece of alluminum isn't going to save your sleeves. I have seen multiple pics of cracked sleeves WITH a block guard installed, so it looks like it goes both ways. I guess if it makes you feel better? Go for it. I prefer good tuning instead of wasting money on a block guard.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by beerbongskickass &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

If your block blows a little piece of alluminum isn't going to save your sleeves. I have seen multiple pics of cracked sleeves WITH a block guard installed, so it looks like it goes both ways. I guess if it makes you feel better? Go for it. I prefer good tuning instead of wasting money on a block guard.</TD></TR></TABLE>

They keep the sleeves from shifting not from cracking. It is possible to crack aftermarket sleeves as well.

 

Ryans right. Its to prevent shifting but it wont keep the sleeves from cracking. It beefs up a weak point of D series, the head gasket area.

Its better than nothing. Think of a block gaurd as a middle step between stock sleeves and aftermarket sleeves.

 

Jeff seems to think they are a waste of money also (read his last post in this thread)...

http://forums.evans-tuning.com...=1376

From what I have read from his site, the sleeves are going to move at high boost anyways, so I don't see how a block guard will do any good when there have been many high horsepower hondas on stock sleeves and no block guard. I do see how good tuning can help in that situation though. I don't agree it's better than nothing. I look at the block guard as just one more thing that "might" cause a problem and if it isn't needed why do it. Your stock sleeves will be fine if tuned well.

http://forums.evans-tuning.com/viewtopic.php?t=389

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by beerbongskickass &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Jeff seems to think they are a waste of money also (read his last post in this thread)...

http://forums.evans-tuning.com...=1376

From what I have read from his site, the sleeves are going to move at high boost anyways, so I don't see how a block guard will do any good when there have been many high horsepower hondas on stock sleeves and no block guard. I do see how good tuning can help in that situation though. I don't agree it's better than nothing. I look at the block guard as just one more thing that "might" cause a problem and if it isn't needed why do it. Your stock sleeves will be fine if tuned well.

http://forums.evans-tuning.com/viewtopic.php?t=389</TD></TR></TABLE>

Jeff really knows his stuff... BUT he's talking mainly about B series setups. You of all people (since you ran a D the last I checked) should know that the motors... while both 4cyl hondas... are different in overall strengths.

I know that I didn't put in my blockguard to make my motor stronger or to keep the sleeves from cracking. I did it to deal with the sleeve movement and HG issues with higher HP D series.

With a good blockguard, there are no cooling issues (for me). Ive sat in traffic, Ive done my share of pulls at the strip and I've done 3hr drives all without issue. I use the GE because I found the design to be functional.... and it provided a solution to what I forsaw as a possible problem down the line.

 

RyanCivic2000 had issues with his headgasket and he had a block guard installed, so it didn't seem to help him. I think the d-series HG issue has more to do with tuning/timing.

 

i would like to know how a blockguard could cause a problem?

If anything its a safety precaution.

Jeff does know his stuff, but i dont think his opinion is the end all be-all.


Muckman is right its better than nothing. Bseries sleeves can take a lot but a little extra support never hurt anything.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by beerbongskickass &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">RyanCivic2000 had issues with his headgasket and he had a block guard installed, so it didn't seem to help him. I think the d-series HG issue has more to do with tuning/timing.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I agree that tuning/timing has a role in it, but I'm also looking at it from a shifting sleeve standpoint.

I'm covering my bases really, the cost of the guard is minimal to remedy something I see as a potential issue. I guess, if it 'really' doesn't help... i KNOW it isn't causing any harm. The only reason I say this... is because it hasn't and ive driven it under all types of conditions at this point.

So it works for me.

 

A lotof the problems that have occured with block gaurds were because of improper installation. There were magazines showing them installed in the car by hitting them in place with a hammer. If you have it installed correctly, which would include honing the cylinders, they are worth what they cost. Most aftermarket sleeves have some kind of block gaurd built into them, or even use a block gaurd to close the deck for more strength.