well over the past two days i pulled the head and oil pan and whatever else to get my pistons out... this is what i found....
leave some comments and thoughts...

 

very nice what caused this tuning >?

 

it had been running all summer on 9lbs... numbers all in my sig... i decided to go to 11lbs and we were retuning on the street... i hit the rev limiter very hard in 1st gear and it leaned out to almost 15.0.. i just dunno how it leaning out in 1st gear would be enough to do this... also every piston was screwed up on the intake side... not a single one was hurt on the exhaust side... would anyone more knowledgeable care to elaborate??

 

What are you using for tuning?

 

crome...

 

u were tuning the car and taking it up to redline in 1st gear???? or did u finish tune the car and was testing it out?

 

Post screenshots of your ignition timing maps

 

awe man dont it cut fuel wen u hit the limiter thats prolly what caused it..... man that sucks

 

if their is no fuel ala fuel cut. The mixture can't be lean because theirs none.

 

we had just finished tuning and were headed back to the shop... my car was known to take a beating from me very often including the rev limiter being hit often... thats why i was so confused... blundar tuned it so id have to have him post them up, ill see what i can do... any other comments??

 

Yeah, go and build your motor now. Welcome.

 

that sux man! just fmi - how did u kno the ringlands were gone? was it billowing smoke?

Also were u using a catchan or stock pcv system i hear stock pcv can blow ur ringlands with boost (valve closes in boost, creating crankcase pressure, bye bye ringlands)

 

yea, i would invest in a better PCV system. i seen ringlands break on B16's on a safe tune (11.5 a/f and about 21-22* timing for 8 psi) running stock PCV.

i doubt it was tuner error cuz Blunder knows his ****. motor was ready to go. time for forged internals and more boost!

when ringlands break, u def can tell. a whole shitload of smoke will be seen

 

congrats!!

 

where is PCV locate at? (95 GSR) i think i need to change that. i dont like the sound of the valve close at boost. and my car is using stock one.

 

i have a 94 del sol vtec that is boosted ...i use a tuned emange system and i ran 9lbs all summer...then i read a article in HCI that said a stock b16 handled 18psi before she blew....so me being the jackhole i am up'd the boost to 15psi and retuned with emange....same thing happend to all 4 of my pistons

no signs of preigntion or detonation, but excessive cylinder pressure destroyed the shitty cast pistons that honda used on the b series

now it is fully built ...but im looking for an AEM unit this time around

 

well i have a greddy catchcan but i was never sure as to if it was hooked up properly... for the entire summer one tube went to the valve cover and the other to a nipple thing on my intake off of the turbo... when it blew 1 tube was hooked up to the stock catch can thing i dunno what it is and the other to the intake off the turbo... i knew it was the ringlands because it was smoking out of the vent on the valvecover and compression was shitty... reguardless to why it blew it still leaned out to almost 15.0??????????????

 

u can see in the pics... the intake side is pretty black whereas the exhaust side of all the pistons was MUCH cleaner..

 

I'd lie if I said the car was tuned conservatively. somewhere in the 23-24 degrees @10psi range. We were trying to break into the 11s on street tires for a race on a stock motor. Foolish in retrospect...

Something to keep in mind... If you correct for the horrible calibration of the dyno (revlimiter at 7850? it was at 8250) the car made 309 whp / 199 ft/lbs on *9* psi on a MUSTANG. On 11 psi... That's every bit of 315-320 whp. That's VERY much the edge of a stock piston.

Some points of reference for the dynojet centric honda-tech:
Jeff's car made 309whp/199ftlbs (RPM corrected) or 291/199 on the mustang
Mark's Vortec 00 si made 270whp/182 mustang, 309 dynojet
Roger's LS/T made 280/255 mustang 340/290 dynojet

You can only push a stock piston so hard before it says byebye. I think the combination of not-so-conservative tuning, boost level and power output level was just too much. I'll try and remember to post a screenshot of ignition timing tables later.

 

There is no signs of "black death" on the sides of the skirts which would mean ign timing is not the cause. Is there any pitting on the tops of the pistons?

 

tops of the pistons looked great...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94whtgsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well i have a greddy catchcan but i was never sure as to if it was hooked up properly... for the entire summer one tube went to the valve cover and the other to a nipple thing on my intake off of the turbo... when it blew 1 tube was hooked up to the stock catch can thing i dunno what it is and the other to the intake off the turbo... i knew it was the ringlands because it was smoking out of the vent on the valvecover and compression was shitty... reguardless to why it blew it still leaned out to almost 15.0??????????????</TD></TR></TABLE>

huh? what kind of engine a bseries? So you had one tub going to the valve cover and the other to ? preturbo intake? So then you left the intake manifold pcv hole connected to the OEM pcv valve, and left the OEM blackbox?

You are supposed to put a breather on the valve cover, and get fittings for honda for the back of the block, completely removing the pcv valve, the blockbox, and plugging the hole in the intake manifold. You run the lines from the back of the black ot the catchcan....

 

^^^ There is more than one way to skin a cat . The way you describe would be an open to atmos pcv system like 99% of turbo honda people use "nothing or just a catchcan". Anything is better than stock but the engine should really be in vaccum at all times to be most efficient and create the least amount of ringland stress and ring wear. We need vaccum pumps like F-1 cars. Thats all

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blundar &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'd lie if I said the car was tuned conservatively. somewhere in the 23-24 degrees @10psi range. We were trying to break into the 11s on street tires for a race on a stock motor. Foolish in retrospect...</TD></TR></TABLE>

No need for a screenshot, thats all that was needed to be posted in the original post

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Widebody1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">^^^ There is more than one way to skin a cat . The way you describe would be an open to atmos pcv system like 99% of turbo honda people use "nothing or just a catchcan". Anything is better than stock but the engine should really be in vaccum at all times to be most efficient and create the least amount of ringland stress and ring wear. We need vaccum pumps like F-1 cars. Thats all </TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah i know, i was going to go into the concept of vacuum scavenge etc. but i thought it was a little to detailed for the topic of this thread. I use a pre-turbo slashcut but after i saw all the **** it dumped intot he intake charge i switched to open atmo. until i can find someone to weld a slashcut in my downpipe...