OK so whats up.

 

1200 when cold, 950-1000 when warmed up, GM 3 bar LS/Vtec turbo

 

1400 when cold, 800 when warmed up. I'm still using stock map sensor.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TurboCoop &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">1200 when cold, 950-1000 when warmed up, GM 3 bar LS/Vtec turbo</TD></TR></TABLE>

aaaaahhhh.... I see grass hopper, I to use the GM 3 bar and have the same idle pattern as you, very interesting, thank you for that confirmation. Of course there are variables to this but I would assume that cars using MAP sensors that are boost specific to have a slightly raised idle nbecause they interpret the pressure differently, but I could be wrong... OK more people keep posting.

 

1500 cold, 1300 warmed.

gm 3bar

 

Old Turbo Setup : 1200 when cold 900 when warm Gm 3 bar map sensor

 

1500 cold, 1200 warm, 3bar, ls/vtec turbo

 

AEM 5 bar with (4) 1000cc injectors and (4) 1600cc injectors..cold 1100 hot 850...

 

mine b16a low comp. cold idle 1500 warm idle 1100-1350 surging. Gm 3 bar RC 750cc injectors uberdata tune. I have no leaks,and a good Iacv but I cant fix the surging.


Modified by rudebwoy at 11:47 AM 12/16/2005

 

damn David, do you use all this injectors on you car?

 

car one - Denso 2.5bar map sensor 1500 cold 1000 warm - RC Eng 1000cc/min
car two - AEM 3.5bar map sensor 1500 cold 1000 warm - RC Eng 1000cc/min

 

1200/1300 cold; 800warm. Motorola 2.5Bar w/ DSM 450cc. Crome tuned by Blundar

 

1300 cold and 900 warm with stock Map using emenage voltage clamp

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 99Hybrid_Hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">AEM 5 bar with (4) 1000cc injectors and (4) 1600cc injectors..cold 1100 hot 850...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Damn son, what engine management are you using, does this car even drive on the street? Eeerrrrr...Ummm, I mean you must be using a stand alone that removes the cold start programming and WOW thats a really clean low idle for injectors of that size, GReat Job on that. Totally blew me away.

For everybody else, the general trend here is that most of us have some sort of elevated idle with our turbo hondas, at least those of us who are not using stand alone engine management(AEM,FAST,Motec).

 

if you aren't using engine management how the hell is your car still running. programs like uberdata, crome all have settings to set your cold start idle speed and then warm up idle speed. hondata has a setting for idle speed. AEM, autronic, motec, fast, etc etc all ahve settings for idle speed.

so being turbo or non-turbo really doesn't play into what your car idles at, its all based on the engine management that tells it to idle at X rpm. i've tuned NA cars to idle at 1100 and turbo cars to idle at 900rpms, it really doesn't matter.

 

motorola 2.5bar (TurboEdit)
1200 cold, 750 hot.

Idles like a stock car, 100%

 

Iam on AEM EMS 1050 box with a aem injector driver.. the 4 1000's are used at idle till 65% DC then the 1600's come in..I do have cold start enrichment but I set it up right..also car see's the streets like 3 days out of the month and thats it..

 

about 800rpm 3 bar 1000cc

 

1200-1500 when cold

800-900 warmed up, using 450dsms stock map

 

1500 cold

750 rpms warm, with 450cc, Motorola 2.5 BAR (TurboEdit)
idles like stock!!!!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fastrunner &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">For everybody else, the general trend here is that most of us have some sort of elevated idle with our turbo hondas, at least those of us who are not using stand alone engine management(AEM,FAST,Motec).</TD></TR></TABLE>

Wrong.

The problem is GM 3 bar MAP sensor, and the ****** dance you have to go through to tune the idle with them... that most tuenars don't or won't go through.

GM 3 bar MAP is a +/- 3% variable sensor. It also has horrible resolution in the idle vacuum range. Given a minute variance in how much vacuum your engine draws at idle along with the other factors and things get wierd. There is a nice writeup in the Crome forum of pgmfi.org about tuning with the GM 3 bar MAP, where you set up a particular column to idle on, and the two columns adjacent to it should be just a hair above and below normal idle fluctuations as they occur on that particular car, so you can as accurately as possible control fuel and ignition in that region.

I had Trav-***' RC 1100cc idling 1300-1400 cold and 750 warm on Uberdata. Problem is, the stock ECU closed TPS revlimit is 1300 rpms, which on engine decel wasn't enough to catch @ idle. Translation: I could start and idle the car, and baby the rpms down to 1500-2000 or so and let go and everything was fine, but if I was cruising at 3500 rpm and let off gas and pushed in the clutch the engine would stall. I ended up having it idle at 950-1050 rpms. GSRswapandslow, Speed Phreak, and several others witnessed the car. It's nothing speshul, just be aware that tuning large cores on a stock Honduh ECU across a resistor box takes twice as long to nail idle/startup as it does to tune part throttle through 20 psi. I spent 4-5 hours on the idle alone, but it was the first time I'd tried any such thing and had to learn how things behaved. I spent a *lot* of time watching how AFRs logged and populated cells in the lambda logs right at startup, at idle, when barely revving the engine, and on decel, to figure everything out.

Later tunes I just jacked the TPS forward so it read a value of "15" in UD when closed, the ECU thought the throttle was barely open and idled the injectors at 750 rpms nice and smooth like with no stalls at decel.

Nothing against DIY and homebrew stuffs, but you do realize the sort of person who drops $1500 on a fuel injection computer ends up taking their car to someone with a little experience and a pricetage to get it tuned? You can get those results yourself, but expect to spend two to four times the tuning time that a professional would take, after you get used to basic tuning with your EMS of choice. With DSM 450 through RC 750 high-Z, that means you spend an extra thirty seconds on the idle. Precision 880's are pretty easy to get to idle, but require just a little more attention. Most other cores starting at 700+ start getting real persnickety.

 

1200/1500 cold, 8000/8500 with 650cc in my 5G LUDE

 

I have it idle at 850-900 RPM warm, and higher than that at cold. I can have it idle at stock 700R-750 PM if I wanted to because I never had stalling issues with the AEM. The car is much easier to drive at a higher idle because of a lighter flywheel and ITB's, so I am sure most of the guys here would have their idle at 900RPM or slightly higher.

Setup:
RC 750's saturated
Jenvey ITB's
AEM MAP sensor
AEM EMS
CM 8lb flywheel

 

J.Davis thanks for the reality check and good info .

Tony I to have noted increased ease of drivability with the idle raised to 900 as well, it just took somebody else saying it for me to think maybe the butt dyno isn't half wrong.

 

~800 with stock denso and same w/ gm 3 bar.. no difference