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so i put new valve springs in and..

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Old Dec 14, 2005 | 07:57 PM
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Hebrew-Hammer's Avatar
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From: Amelia, Oh, USA
Default so i put new valve springs in and..

Basically the car wont run. i have no idea what im doing ill be honest. i have it all together correctly but i need to get the valve timings right agian. i have a d16z6. i need help on how to set the valve timing back to where the car will run. i have it running but it acts like it has a long *** duration on the exhaust side, but i have the stock cam. So if someone would be so kind as to run me throught the process of getting the valves back in tune id be very appreciative.

Thanks for looking!
-Matt
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Old Dec 14, 2005 | 08:26 PM
  #2  
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Default Re: so i put new valve springs in and.. (Hebrew-Hammer)

go buy a chiltons manual $20 or download a fsm for free and it will show you the cam timing marks and also show you how to set your ignition timing afterwards. Did you not keep the crank and cam at TDC when you put the t-belt back on?
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Old Dec 14, 2005 | 08:33 PM
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Default Re: so i put new valve springs in and.. (SteveoBA8)

yeah the timing marks are lined up, i been messin with it for about 2 hrs taking the cover off adjusting and putting it all back together, though ive been getting really close to it being in tune. right now it will run its alil rough but when i give it alil throttle it smooths out quite a bit, but as soon as i let off the motor boggs down to like 100 rpms for awhile and dies. Was i even suppose to touch the adjusters on the rocker arms?
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Old Dec 15, 2005 | 04:36 AM
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ok its gotta be that the valves arnt adjusted correctly. could someone run me through that process. Dont you turn the crank till the exhauts or intake vavles on anygivin cylinder are at there peak duration, then adjust the opposite side, or is that all wrong. whats the gap suppose tobe between the rocker arm and valve?


Modified by Hebrew-Hammer at 6:06 AM 12/15/2005


Modified by Hebrew-Hammer at 6:07 AM 12/15/2005


Modified by Hebrew-Hammer at 7:22 AM 12/15/2005
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Old Dec 15, 2005 | 08:05 AM
  #5  
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Default Re: (Hebrew-Hammer)

Go buy a manual. Best money you'll ever spend. To do a valve adjustment, you'll need a 10mm socket, flathead screwdriver, and feeler gauges. The clearances and procedure will all be explained in the manual. If I had time to type it out for you, I would.

Man, if everybody just bought a manual we'd have less of these posts.
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Old Dec 15, 2005 | 09:56 AM
  #6  
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Default Re: (paopao)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by paopao &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Go buy a manual. Best money you'll ever spend. To do a valve adjustment, you'll need a 10mm socket, flathead screwdriver, and feeler gauges. The clearances and procedure will all be explained in the manual. If I had time to type it out for you, I would.

Man, if everybody just bought a manual we'd have less of these posts.</TD></TR></TABLE>
YesYes
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Old Dec 16, 2005 | 10:49 AM
  #7  
Hebrew-Hammer's Avatar
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does it really hurt to be helpful?
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Old Dec 16, 2005 | 06:49 PM
  #8  
Runnerdown's Avatar
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Default Re: (Hebrew-Hammer)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hebrew-Hammer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">does it really hurt to be helpful?</TD></TR></TABLE>


??? If you have no idea what you are doing, then typing out how to properly perform a valve adjustment is a joke. He IS being helpful....by recommending the manual to simplify things for you!
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Old Dec 16, 2005 | 08:34 PM
  #9  
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Yeah i totally see where your coming from.
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Old Dec 25, 2005 | 03:28 PM
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Default Re: (Hebrew-Hammer)

matt ur a loser, u should just pay me to do all ur work so its done right
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