does it have a "stopper" when you arrive at the higher point of the adjustement and the lower point or i can pass the limits and scrap my coil over??? thanks

at which position is the damping when a receive it??? higher(+4k) lower(-4K) or middle (0 )

 

I would guess it would be set at neutral when first shipped and it is a 15 way adjustable coilover so yes it should have a stopping point in the adjustabiliity. I have the coils on order so havnt recieved mine yet... maybe someone w/ the coils should chim in.

 

why don't you ask buddy club, they're normally quick to answer emails or you can just call them.

 

I would call.... i e-mailed them 2-3 weeks ago... still no reply. I did call after about a week.

 

someone please make a thorough review of the n+ coilovers

 

i've already send a email to buddyclub!! next day, they answer and tell me thath they don't know what i'm talking about!!!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by El_cOuZiN &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i've already send a email to buddyclub!! next day, they answer and tell me thath they don't know what i'm talking about!!!! </TD></TR></TABLE><TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by El_cOuZiN &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">does it have a "stopper" when you arrive at the higher point of the adjustement and the lower point or i can pass the limits and scrap my coil over??? thanks

at which position is the damping when a receive it??? higher(+4k) lower(-4K) or middle (0 )
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I hope you didn't ask them like that, if you did, I wouldn't blame them if they were confused.

 

check el grand, j'ai faite du mieux que j'ai pu!!
i know that i need to work my english

 

just turn it to the softest and count up from there. i was actually talking to buddy club at d1 about the n+ and was told it is a 40mm piston and i got to see the coilover in person. it is actually a quality looking piece. the racing spec is a 45mm piston fyi

 

oki thanks!! but like a i said before, does the ajustement will stop when it will be at the lower adjustement??
sorry for my english!!!

 

some do and some don't, i recommend either calling or emailing them...i was actually over there yesterday but it didn't cross my mind to ask...i plan on being there the first or second week of jan if you really want to wait that long for an answer.

 

anyone here exactly knows why they made it 12kf/6kr? kind of a weird setup

 

i agree with you on that...if i end up not liking the spring rates i'll probably ask them for some new ones at a different rate, who knows, it may actually be nice, but i doubt it.

 

I dont think you can get custom springs off buddy club themselves for the n+ not like the racing spec coilovers. Most of us would prefer a slightly stiffer rear to reduce understeer. 12k/6k rates are just unforgiving for a dd and just as shitty on auto-x

 

if i understood george correctly over there he said it shouldn't be an issue. time will tell though

 

let me know how you guys like the setup. list other suspension mods, track testing if you can

 

There is a theory behind the spring rates... they wouldnt do it unless there ws a reason.

The idea is to keep the rear end very loose, so that it’s easy to rotate through the turns. Its based on the principle of load transfer, in that much softer rear springs (when compared to the fronts), combined with no rear sway bar, makes the rear end transfer load very quickly from the inside to the outside rear tire during a turn. Without stiff springs or a sway bar to regulate the load transfer, and combined with the much stiffer front springs (meaning the rear end is taking the majority of roll couple) you'll get all the load moved to the outside rear tire almost instantly, overcoming the tire's traction capabilities, which will kick out the tail in a turn, aka oversteer.

I learned about the setup thru PIC Performance who i believe learned the theory behind the setup thru Kendall who know a good deal about how and why it works.

 

yes I understand, I dont want to make this to another one of those debates we've had in the road racing forum before that went on and on. You're talking about track conditions in which some ppl do run w/o rear sway bars but this isn't realistic when driving on the street.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ruthless EF8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There is a theory behind the spring rates... they wouldnt do it unless there ws a reason.

The idea is to keep the rear end very loose, so that it’s easy to rotate through the turns. Its based on the principle of load transfer, in that much softer rear springs (when compared to the fronts), combined with no rear sway bar, makes the rear end transfer load very quickly from the inside to the outside rear tire during a turn. Without stiff springs or a sway bar to regulate the load transfer, and combined with the much stiffer front springs (meaning the rear end is taking the majority of roll couple) you'll get all the load moved to the outside rear tire almost instantly, overcoming the tire's traction capabilities, which will kick out the tail in a turn, aka oversteer.

I learned about the setup thru PIC Performance who i believe learned the theory behind the setup thru Kendall who know a good deal about how and why it works.</TD></TR></TABLE>

considering the n+ is a street suspension and their applications are for vehicles that are most likely going to be running a rsb, i think your idea is not applicable. my thoughts are that is was just easier to mass produce a suspension with that spring rate and set categories for their suspension. the n+ will be f:12k r:6k, but the racing spec will be f:12k r:8k...thereby creating an opportunity to further justify a price increase since these will be stiffer therefore "higher performance". but who knows.

 

Racing spec is not 12/8, its 10/6 according to Buddy Club USA, 10/7 according to robearracing.com. I got 10/8 here from Buddy Club Canada...if they ever ship the ******* things to me.

 

the majority of the racing specs are 12/8 but it does depend upon the car.

clicky pow
http://www.buddyclub.us/buddyclub/top_m.html

 

true it depends, i mean EK civic when I say Buddy Club stated 10/6.

 

yeah....and i meant dc...no worries...i don't think we even know what the op's car is.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ruthless EF8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There is a theory behind the spring rates... they wouldnt do it unless there ws a reason.

The idea is to keep the rear end very loose, so that it’s easy to rotate through the turns. Its based on the principle of load transfer, in that much softer rear springs (when compared to the fronts), combined with no rear sway bar, makes the rear end transfer load very quickly from the inside to the outside rear tire during a turn. Without stiff springs or a sway bar to regulate the load transfer, and combined with the much stiffer front springs (meaning the rear end is taking the majority of roll couple) you'll get all the load moved to the outside rear tire almost instantly, overcoming the tire's traction capabilities, which will kick out the tail in a turn, aka oversteer.

I learned about the setup thru PIC Performance who i believe learned the theory behind the setup thru Kendall who know a good deal about how and why it works.</TD></TR></TABLE>

And in that same thread a bunch of people said this was pretty much incorrect.

Buddy club and most aftermarket suspension companies sell high front rate low rear rate setup for most street cars for one simple reason, Understeer is easier to control than over steer and is safer on the street.

Very Few Racers that I know of run a high front low rear setup, much less a setup like this withour a rear sway bar.