I am still diagnosing my problem... My PGM-FI light is on " TW Sensor " (temperature water sensor)

now, while inspecting everything i find this. please tell me what this is beside the temp sensor and what its function is.

BOTH PLUGS STILL INSTALLED. RIGHT IS TW SENSOR. WHAT IS ON THE LEFT ?


TEMP. WATER SENSOR INSTALLED, SECOND PLUG UNDONE


UP CLOSE OF PLUG UNDONE


im wondering if the second unknown plug is temperature sending something..... if so, the wire looks pretty roughed up on it. would it be possible for that plug to have a short and the ecu still be throwing code 6, TW sensor, coolant temp sensor ?

 

small one wire plug is the sending unit for the gague in the car, larger 2 wire sensor is the coolant temp sensor that the ecu reads from

 

well, the one wire plug is kinda F'ed up. can a replacement plug be bought, or do i just find something that will fit and splice the wire on?

could that 1 wire plug cause the TW sensor to come on ?

 

Just go to the parts store and ask for female bullet connectors or go get another one from the junkyard.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ITR 1102 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">could that 1 wire plug cause the TW sensor to come on ?</TD></TR></TABLE>

no it won't throw a cel if you disconnect the sending unit.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eda6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just go to the parts store and ask for female bullet connectors or go get another one from the junkyard.


no it won't throw a cel if you disconnect the sending unit. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Tru, tru.... The tw sensor is the one on the right. Just continuity check to the ecu on the red wire, and the green is ground, so continuity check that too... Then if thats good change sensor, then it MIGHT be a bad ecu...

Also check obvious, coolant, visual checks, exc...

 

does the motor have to be running, or can i just have the ignition switch on to do the continuity test for the TW sensor ?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ITR 1102 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">does the motor have to be running, or can i just have the ignition switch on to do the continuity test for the TW sensor ?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Neither

you are testing the wire
not the ecu

one end of tester on ecu end of wire, and other end of tester on other end

if wire is broke
fix wire

if not suspect ecu

 

I have not tested each wire from sensor to ecu, but i have check for continuity between the two wires at the plug. my meter revealed that there is continuity between the two wires.

should this be an open circuit when all power is turned off to the car ? (battery is still connected)

 

Man, why does everyoe have such a hard time using a volt meter! Its the most simple function on the tester.... Continuity, look it up. Your testing the WIRE. No need for battery power, the volt meter has a battery inside of it. Your checking the wire for breaks .

You should NOT have continuity between the 2 wires

 

i know perfectly well how to use a volt / ohm meter !

i was just saying that i had not disconnected the battery to the car.

I have continuity between the two wires at the plug. I suppose now I need to rewire the plug to the ecu since it seems to have a short somewhere.

sound right ? or other suggestion

 

So your saying that the red wire is grounding out? Yes, replace the wire...

 

well, neither of the 2 wires are red, but if u r referring to HOT, im not sure which is the hot wire.

would 16 ga. speaker wire be sufficient to rewire the sensor to go to the ecu ?

 

the wires on my ECT were red and green

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lvcrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the wires on my ECT were red and green </TD></TR></TABLE>

well, mine are yellow and green, each having a stripe on them. This is a 87 crx si

is there any way to view more than one ecu code at a time, or do u have to fix the code that it thrown before it will read another one ?

the ecu is read in binary with 4 red led lights on the side of the ecu
1,2,4,8 digit.

 

Ah, yes 1g crx is a different color, the yellow wire is the one that goes to the ecu... Ill have to find the ecu chart online, I have how to read codes somewhere

 

oh, well if only one wire goes to the ecu...

can i just run one new wire to the ecu and ground the other wire at the closest point ? or should one of those wires go to a fuse somewhere ? speaker wire ok ?

thanks for the help guys

 

could anyone verify the wire that goes to the ecu from the tw sensor?

droppedcrxsi said it was the yellow wire. my wire is yellow with a blue stripe, and there is not a yellow and blue stripe wire going into the ecu.

the second wire is a green wire with a yellow stripe.
my ecu does have a green w/ yellow stripe wire going to it. IS this the right wire ?

 

The green is the common sensor ground... It goes to the ecu, but not directly on its own. The other wire goes to the ecu directly If you want to bypass, grond the green wire, and run the other to the ecu in the correct location


PS, yours is not red, because someone changed the plug, and repaired it, so its prolly diff wire too

 

yea, i found that someone had poorly changed the plug. the wires were shorting out where they were electrical taped together ! I just ran new wires to the ecu. and actually, when i traced it, both the wires red and brown went to the ecu.

and now that the TW sensor code is gone, the car starts up on the first try !

only to give me another code tho and run like crap.
Atmospheric pressure sensor. is that located near where i was running wires ? perhaps i bumped it or something ?

how can i cycle thru and make sure there are not any more codes ? or do i have to do each one individually like i am ?

 

Thats internal in the ecu