I was recently driving my vehicle 4:30am in the cold morning I really didn't let it warm up all the way only 2-3mins. I was driving the vehicle in 3rd gear arouond 3500' RPM and it felt like something gave way and a check engine light came on as my vehicle bucked/jerked a bit. Now when I drive my vehicle I cannot Rev it past 3,000 RPM and there is hardly any power close to there. The vehicle tends to want to shut-off during idle also. I don't know if this is a limp home mode that the vehicle is in. Hopefully this is not a mechanical problem but, a electical issue. I was just wondering if you guys anybody had any idea before I take it to the dealership to check for the codes associated with my problem.

 

Take it to AutoXoned or someplace like that, they'll usually read the codes for free. Get the actual code number, not just the guy's explanation for what's wrong. There's some code lists around here, or just search for the Pnnnn number.

Driving EASY to warm the engine is good, but why were you revving high in a lower gear??

 

I wasnt revving too high i usually shift around 3,000 rpm in that gear but, i was just trying to accelerate more in that gear before I shifted into 4th. Im from the northeast area I never heard of a Autoxoned what about pepboys, advance auto, or autozone do you know if they would have a scanner in hand to be able to check for codes?

 

All you mentioned should have a scanner to read your codes.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Si12iuS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">... what about pepboys, advance auto, or autozone...</TD></TR></TABLE>That's what I meant . Probably any of those places.

 

OK here it is I finally got to the problem... I have oil at the very tip of my dipstick!!! AHHH!! so mad.... after checking that I knew I had some problems. There is only a check engine light no check oil light. Did an oil change noticed a little bit(miniscule) of metal shavings and a minute smell of gasoline in my oil. Scanned for codes found and auxillary code p1607??? anyone have any idea what that is??? Running vehicle now car seems to be running normal but, doesn't have as much power as it used to. Going to change the oil in about another 1,000miles check engine light still on. Oh and oil was leaking from the drain plug... changed the plug... hopefully it wasn't the oil pan it self keeping an eye out for any continuous leaks. ANy insight on that code plz let me know peace.

 

Straight outta the book:

P1607 is an ECM/PCM (engine control module/powertrain control module) internal circuit malfunction.

Try to reset the ECU by going to the passenger side fuse box and removing fuse 13 (7.5A clock backup) for 10 seconds or so. Put the fuse back in, turn the key to the ON position to see if your check engine light returns.

If that doesn't work, looks like you may be looking for a new (or junkyard) ecm/pcm..

...and check your oil more often than never

 

Ok how much is it for a pcm for a 98 accord 2.3L? incase I am gonna end up replacing it. ANd i have more information that might lead to more help. Even though the vehicle is driving fine it seems that early cold mornings the vehicle sometime won't let me rev past 3,000 RPM'S but, later on in the day when the vehicle is warmed up or running it rev's normally... Is the vehicle in a failure effects mode or something?? And also I remind you that when that p1607 code did occur my vehicle wasn't able to rev past 3,000RPMS at that time so thats how they are related. Any help is greatly appreciated. thanks.

 

no help plz?

 

Unless you have acess to a PGM tester or an HDS you'll have to take that to your dealer. Only they will be able to reprogram your immobilizer system. Sorry it'll be a bit pricy.

 

Are you sure that's the immobilizer? That wouldn't even let the engine start.

I thougt if P1607 keeps coming back after being cleared, it's a bad PCM. Still, gonna be expensive, but you can swap in a different PCM. Maybe from a junkyard?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Si12iuS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I was recently driving my vehicle 4:30am in the cold morning I really didn't let it warm up all the way only 2-3mins...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Just wanted to make a quick comment that has nothing to do with your problem...

My '99's owner's manual says that in cold weather you never need to wait more than 1 minute (or was it 30 second?).

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...ZWDVW

I dont see why it would need replacing if the car runs fine occasionally.

Reset the computer and what happens?