92 EG Hatch side molding holes??
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Joined: Apr 2005
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From: Dallas, TX, 75028
92 EG Hatch side molding holes??
i was wondering if anyone knew about what it would cost to have my side molding holes filled in by a body shop or the easiest way for me to do it myself. should i not bondo it and try to weld in little squares of metal or what?(would jb weld be ghetto) and about how much it would cost
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From: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
Re: 92 EG Hatch side molding holes?? (b16hatche)
if i were you id just ask around your town for a place thats done "tuner" jobs.
any decent shop should be able to quote you if you drop by
any decent shop should be able to quote you if you drop by
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From: Dallas, TX, 75028
Re: 92 EG Hatch side molding holes?? (b16hatche)
anyone know about doing it yourself, possibility of using jb weld (or would it fall out also like bondo) trying to figure out so i can get my car painted asap
Joined: Mar 2004
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From: Los Angeles/San Francisco, CA, USA
Re: 92 EG Hatch side molding holes?? (b16hatche)
Tack weld a plate from behind, then bondo on top. I would just buy the CX or VX fenders and doors, save yourself the time and money.
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From: San Diego, CA
Re: 92 EG Hatch side molding holes?? (Alchemist)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Alchemist »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Tack weld a plate from behind, then bondo on top. I would just buy the CX or VX fenders and doors, save yourself the time and money. </TD></TR></TABLE>
2nd that.
2nd that.
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Re: 92 EG Hatch side molding holes?? (nitekidsef9)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nitekidsef9 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
any decent shop should be able to quote you if you drop by</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'd say this is your best bet.
any decent shop should be able to quote you if you drop by</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'd say this is your best bet.
EFSS153
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Tornado Alley
Re: 92 EG Hatch side molding holes?? (Alchemist)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Alchemist »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Tack weld a plate from behind, then bondo on top. I would just buy the CX or VX fenders and doors, save yourself the time and money. </TD></TR></TABLE>
This is what I was thinking. If it were me, I'd just put some JDM thin side moldings on and leave it.
This is what I was thinking. If it were me, I'd just put some JDM thin side moldings on and leave it.
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From: ca
I did mine myself. I got some super hard metal to metal glue and glued on some metal plates behind each hole. Then applied bondo and sanded it down. Been on for a year now and no problems so far. Oh yeah, make sure you get some kind of sealant to spray over the metal pieces so they don't rust.
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From: san diego, ca, usa
Re: (aeon)
tack weld sheet metal in place of the molding across the door to reduce any flex in the door that can possibly cause it to crack later. fill the rest with marglass or kitty hair(filler with fiberglass strands) sand it and then finish it with bondo.
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From: Dallas, TX, 75028
Re: (aeon)
[I did mine myself. I got some super hard metal to metal glue and glued on some metal plates behind each hole. Then applied bondo and sanded it down. Been on for a year now and no problems so far. Oh yeah, make sure you get some kind of sealant to spray over the metal pieces so they don't rust.] : Qoute by AEON
How did u glue metal plates on behind the door??? I wanna figure this out
How did u glue metal plates on behind the door??? I wanna figure this out
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From: ca
Re: (b16hatche)
Okay, what you're doing is cutting up little square metal pieces that are larger than the holes on your door. From the inside, sand around the hole until you see bare metal. Make sure the diameter of the metal showing is about the size of the metal squares or bigger. Also I'm not sure if I did or not, but you should sand around the hole on the other side also. Now the glue I bought, was made to glue metal to metal. I forgot what it was called but I got it from an autobody shop. Costed me around 30-40 bucks. Make sure everything is clean, apply the glue to the metal plate and glue them to each hole. Some glue will ooze out to the other side but it's okay. The glue I had took a long time to dry so I had to apply tape over them to hold them up and after I finished all of the holes on one side, I used a heat gun to speed up the drying process. Once glue is dry which may take up to 24 hrs to cure, just sand down the excess glue that came through. Then you can do what solareclipseauto suggested and use marglass or kitty hair and apply that to the outside. Sand that down and then apply bondo to fill in any holes. That's it and now you can prep and then paint.
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