Replaced MC, Booster, Pads, Rotors. Have to push hard as **** to really stop. Can't lock tires above 20mph. Is this normal for EF's? I've heard EF brakes just suck.

Summation: Can anybody lock up the tires w/ stock ef brakes?

 

sure...mine lock up.

88-91 civic/CRX had great brakes.

 

When I had my stock brakes, I could easily and I mean easily lock them up in the wet.

It was a little more difficult to do in the dry, but yea, I could do it.

And now, even with the same proportioning valve I can easily lock them up in the dry.

 

I have locked my brakes up once ever. I was driving straight and I had to turn right really fast and missed the turn. It was wet outside though and it slide, but not very far. I have tried many many times at different speeds to lock up my brakes in dry weather and have never achieved this. It could be that I need new pads and shoes though.

 

i have locked up my tires multiple times without trying, just kinda forgot my turn and then hit the brakes and brakes will lock up.

 

expletive. Well the pedal is STIFF. replaced brake booster & check valve. Replaced MC. New rotors and autozone Duralast Gold pads.

so which should I replace next?

-Calipers?
-Put Hawk or Honda pads on?
-proportioning valve?
-Brake lines?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sugarloafpkwy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Replaced MC, Booster, Pads, Rotors. Have to push hard as **** to really stop. Can't lock tires above 20mph. Is this normal for EF's? I've heard EF brakes just suck.

Summation: Can anybody lock up the tires w/ stock ef brakes?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Then again, what kind of tires are we talking about? HF brakes can probably easily lock up the hard 165-175 tires that came stock on the car. But sticky 205s could be another story.

 

I definetly have no trouble locking up the brakes in my 88 Si, such a nice loud screetch.

 

after i put a swap and went to 15 inch wheels i couldnt lock them up at all but mine was a hf. i have since put a fasbrake kit on and i can stop on a dime

 

sugarloafpkwy, the thing about "locking up" brakes is more a function of losing traction at the tires for whatever reason (tires and/or surface) than the brakes...but I can understand if you just feel like the brakes arent doing what they should.

Here's the order I suggest you go in to get this fixed up:

First, find a buddy to help you bleed your brakes with one of those $4 kits, and put on some new front brake pads and Dot 4 fluid.

Hawk HPS pads are a step up from OEM pads and they grab much better, but they will dust and squeak more (but not excessively). I've also found that Bendix ceramic-enhanced pads are a good substitute for OEM that are a little better without so much dusting...kind of a mid-step between OEM and HPS, and the Bendix dust is gray, not black or brown.

Now if things arent feeling so good still, you need to look into calipers or maybe a new brake booster.

Unless you are enduro racing on a roadcorse or you weigh 300-400lbs, then there should be no need for a "big brake" kit to get the EF/CRX to stop well enough for daily-driving or national-level autocrossing.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fireant &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sugarloafpkwy, the thing about "locking up" brakes is more a function of losing traction at the tires for whatever reason (tires and/or surface) than the brakes...but I can understand if you just feel like the brakes arent doing what they should.

Here's the order I suggest you go in to get this fixed up:

First, find a buddy to help you bleed your brakes with one of those $4 kits, and put on some new front brake pads and Dot 4 fluid.

Hawk HPS pads are a step up from OEM pads and they grab much better, but they will dust and squeak more (but not excessively). I've also found that Bendix ceramic-enhanced pads are a good substitute for OEM that are a little better without so much dusting...kind of a mid-step between OEM and HPS, and the Bendix dust is gray, not black or brown.

Now if things arent feeling so good still, you need to look into calipers or maybe a new brake booster.

Unless you are enduro racing on a roadcorse or you weigh 300-400lbs, then there should be no need for a "big brake" kit to get the EF/CRX to stop well enough for daily-driving or national-level autocrossing.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well said!

 

The tires are very worn kumho 711's, 205. Would easily lock them up with normal pressure on my LS. On the EF, i seriously have to stand on the pedal to stop.

is not sufficient for auto-x/street use.

I put new brake pads on - autozone gold pads (Probably hard as crap though) so maybe I should switch to something better.

It has a new booster. and brakes have been bled properly.


The only thing left would be a frozen caliper? but that would cause pulling to one side though wouldn't it?

 

I don't think I ever had a wheel lock on my pig of a sedan. Maybe on gravel if I was in the process of braking while dodging school children, but normally - never. Most people that say all you need are good pads, rotors and new fluid always seem to think you're running a fully gutted STD or HF running narrow 15's that have been heated up nicely to grip. I rarely have my sedan carrying under 50lbs of school/car junk. I'm planning on the accord/10.2" upgrade next spring, I hate weak brakes.