This happened yesterday! While I was driving, I suddenly I heard a pop or blop sound and then it stalled. I check underhood and there was nothing wrong. When try to start, I can hear the car cranking something clicking and then the check light engine comes in.
I can't find the problem. Did I miss something?

edit: Okay, I think I did it wrong..on to plan b.


Corrected typo:
The engine will crank but it want start.




Modified by ninjapanda at 3:15 PM 12/11/2005

 

-=bump=-

I searched and topic (acrhieved) that had the same problem but it didn't state the solution.

I check the fuel injectors which is still good. Distributor works fine. Spark plugs are fine. Battery was bought five months ago which is still good.

 

could be main relay

 

I just check the main relay right now and it it's fine, nothing wrong there.

 

okay, I check the relay, agian it's doing nothing. I disconnect the battery and waited for 2 hours and reconnected, again the engine will crank but not start.

 

it would be nice to know what kind of car you drive and the obd version of it. but anyways, if it was the main relay you might be able to bang on it while you crank the car or the clicking sound you spoke of sounds like spark plug wires or distributor/cap/, and/or rotor arching. it would help if you listed you vehicle make and model w/ mods. every thing is just speculation without the info homie

 

I'm running ZC sohc engine with a SI tranny on my 90 h/b civic and I don't have any mods. Everything is stock.

 

did u take ur dizzy cap off and check the rotor if it was ok if the screw that hold the rotor was in

 

so you have spark? if you do take a can of wd40 or something flamable and spray it down into the intake manifold. then try to start it. if it runs you have a problem with the fuel pump/system

 

For starter how many miles are on the car? Has the t belt been ever replace? How to check if the belt is on the engine. Remove valve cover and visually inspect the belt on the cam sprocket . If thats ok get someone to crank vehicle while u remove a spark plug cable and insert a used plug then crank the engine . If u need more diag help pm me

 

Check ECU for code, (blinking red LED)


Getting spark? Screw driver trick would tell yeah

Getting fuel? Gas on the spark plugs would tell yeah.


no spark? DIZZY, all of it. inside and out. Check condition of plug wires.

 

-=ttt=-
Ecu code was 15 (blinks)

I took the hazard fuse for 10 seconds and put it back. I started car and it still didn't work.

I took out the blk/ylw wiring and there was not problem (from where I look). Put it back on but the car didn't start.

My friend told me about this 2p connector and ignition switch being something wrong.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ninjapanda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">-=ttt=-
Ecu code was 15 (blinks)

I took the hazard fuse for 10 seconds and put it back. I started car and it still didn't work.

I took out the blk/ylw wiring and there was not problem (from where I look). Put it back on but the car didn't start.

My friend told me about this 2p connector and ignition switch being something wrong.</TD></TR></TABLE>


Did you do what this said to do?

 

yeah, but I stop where it says fix the connector and ignition swtich..

 

hey i have the sameproblemthere is no spark at all but the it dound like it wants to turn on

 

who has good pictures of wiring the ecu whenu put a d16a6 on a dx 88 ef dual point

 

I killed my friends CRX once. It didn't on the 1/4 mile going down...then it wouldn't start...crank over and over wouldn't catch. Turns out a grommet in the spark plug cracked and leaked oil in cyl 1 and 2, too much oil=no spark=dead CRX.

Check for oil ontop of your spark plugs. It's a 20$ fix too!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ninjapanda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah, but I stop where it says fix the connector and ignition swtich..</TD></TR></TABLE>

So you checked for Batt Volt there? and there was none? When they say there is a "open" wire, that wire is PHYSICLY cut somewhere. I would check your ignition switch, right up there by the steering wheel. Check under the dash. all that ****.

Electrical **** is a nightmare. but just take your time, and use a real good Multimeter.

 

I don't see no cut or loose wires on the ignition switch. Everything seems to be okay.

I'm gonna test the voltage again the blk/ylw connectors.

 

make sure your timing belt is in good condition and hasn't jumped any teeth.