Seeing how Civic batteries are a very weird shape/size, can anyone out there give me a heads up on what is the best battery on the market? I have a high output alt and about 1500 watts of a stereo system running off my little Les Schwab battery.

Any replies are appreciated.

 

Optima, kinda pricey, and is very light

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nuke209 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">very light</TD></TR></TABLE>

not really.

 

what does the size of your alt and the size of your stereo have to do with your battery? Maybe you need a big capacity if you plan on running your stereo with engine off.

Other then that your battery serves only one real purpose, to start your car.

But it's your choice. If you really want a big bat you can always get a battery relocation kit and get the biggest one out on the market with the most cold cranking amps.

If you are gonna dump some good coin in a new battery just make sure it has a good warrenty. That's my 2 cents

cheers

 

The battery also acts as a capacitor when the car is idling because at an idle the alternator doesn't produce to its full potential. Also the more amps your battery has the better if you leave your accessories on. Having a higher rated battery has helped me out the few times I left a map light on in my car.

Sears Gold battery BTW nothing special.....

 

Odyssey dry cell. Way better than Optima. Can mount flat, sideways, all sorts of different mounting positions are possible. If you aren't running a full blown sound system, the Odyssey PC680MJT would be perfect. Small as hell too. Saves some weight as well.

http://www.odysseybatteries.co...t.htm

If you're running a system, then the PC1200MJT... or if you can make it fit somewhere, the PC1700MJT.

http://www.odysseybatteries.co...t.htm

http://www.odysseybatteries.co...t.htm

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by apexi_eg6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Odyssey dry cell. Way better than Optima. Can mount flat, sideways, all sorts of different mounting positions are possible. If you aren't running a full blown sound system, the Odyssey PC680MJT would be perfect. Small as hell too. Saves some weight as well.

http://www.odysseybatteries.co...t.htm

If you're running a system, then the PC1200MJT... or if you can make it fit somewhere, the PC1700MJT.

http://www.odysseybatteries.co...t.htm

http://www.odysseybatteries.co...t.htm</TD></TR></TABLE>

badass. My battery is startin to go too. Great info.

 

odyssey

 

In for the info.

 

Check this out... in my hatch (group 51R size battery), an Autolite battery will give 530 cranking amps and 70 minutes reserve. The Odyssey 680MJT will give 680 cranking amps and 25 minutes reserve. Then again, the 680MJT is like half the size of a regular 51R size battery. I've seen that battery mounted under a seat for example. How's that for trickery under the hood?

For my Mitsu, which is a group 35 battery, an Exide will provide 710 cranking amps and 100 minutes reserve. The Odyssey 925MJT will give me 53 minutes of reserve, but 925 cranking amps. And it's 30% smaller than the full size.

Simply put, these batteries rock. Don't believe the hype about Optimas. Every sound system guy I've talked to recommend Odyssey day in, day out. And I had a yellow top and a blue top in some cars of mine in the past and both sucked ***. And mind you, I live in Southern Cali where we don't have to worry about super cold weather messing with the crankin amps when starting up.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by apexi_eg6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Check this out... in my hatch (group 51R size battery), an Autolite battery will give 530 cranking amps and 70 minutes reserve. The Odyssey 680MJT will give 680 cranking amps and 25 minutes reserve. Then again, the 680MJT is like half the size of a regular 51R size battery. I've seen that battery mounted under a seat for example. How's that for trickery under the hood?

For my Mitsu, which is a group 35 battery, an Exide will provide 710 cranking amps and 100 minutes reserve. The Odyssey 925MJT will give me 53 minutes of reserve, but 925 cranking amps. And it's 30% smaller than the full size.

Simply put, these batteries rock. Don't believe the hype about Optimas. Every sound system guy I've talked to recommend Odyssey day in, day out. And I had a yellow top and a blue top in some cars of mine in the past and both sucked ***. And mind you, I live in Southern Cali where we don't have to worry about super cold weather messing with the crankin amps when starting up. </TD></TR></TABLE>

eh, my yellow top is a whole lot better than my old sears and honda batteries. I've never used the odyssey but i can vouch for yellow tops being quality. I've drained my battery to **** about 20 times but it keeps comin back. If i was gonna get a battery though, i would go with one i could just put in the trunk.

Something about having a battery a thief cant get to just appeals to me.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FuNkDrSpOt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Something about having a battery a thief cant get to just appeals to me. </TD></TR></TABLE>


and just how is this done, anyway? battery in the trunk sounds kinda fun... even though it'd be a pain in the *** to jump other cars.

 

if you have a big *** system, you can do what i do... use the odyssey in the front for weight savings and starting only. put the big *** yellow optima in the trunk, connect your whole system to that battery and only the system. you should run the main power and ground from your head unit to the rear battery to prevent voltage differences and a ground looop. use a relay to get your accessory power to the radio from your original accessory lead. put an isolator triggered by ignition with a delay to seperate the front and rear battery. this will provide you a battery for cranking and the rest of the car, and one battery only for the system. if your system ever kills the battery, it doesn't matter. your car will start like normal and once the delayed isolator closes, then the alternator will charge the rear battery. make sure you use a heavy cable to the rear battery. if you need to know what gauge cable to use, let me know. give me the distance and total output/ consumption of your system and i will look it up for you in my MECP book.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2000EM1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


and just how is this done, anyway? battery in the trunk sounds kinda fun... even though it'd be a pain in the *** to jump other cars. </TD></TR></TABLE>


It's called a battery relocaton kit. Nothing more then a bracket for the battery and A long cable or two.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by littleredcivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you have a big *** system, you can do what i do... use the odyssey in the front for weight savings and starting only. put the big *** yellow optima in the trunk, connect your whole system to that battery and only the system. you should run the main power and ground from your head unit to the rear battery to prevent voltage differences and a ground looop. use a relay to get your accessory power to the radio from your original accessory lead. put an isolator triggered by ignition with a delay to seperate the front and rear battery. this will provide you a battery for cranking and the rest of the car, and one battery only for the system. if your system ever kills the battery, it doesn't matter. your car will start like normal and once the delayed isolator closes, then the alternator will charge the rear battery. make sure you use a heavy cable to the rear battery. if you need to know what gauge cable to use, let me know. give me the distance and total output/ consumption of your system and i will look it up for you in my MECP book.</TD></TR></TABLE>


Like he said, if you do this know what you are doing and make sure you don't get a "floating" battery. i.e. make sure they have a common ground otherwise you will have something go very bad. (Think blowing somethign expensive, I have seen it)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by old man neri &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Like he said, if you do this know what you are doing and make sure you don't get a "floating" battery. i.e. make sure they have a common ground otherwise you will have something go very bad. (Think blowing somethign expensive, I have seen it)</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, not a good thing... make sure it is grounded.

 

i love my interstate.. i have had it for 4 years and i used to have a big stereo system in my car..

it has never died or been unable to start my car even when its below zero out..