I have jumped on the 5spd from auto bandwagon and in the process am learning quite a bit of things to consider when gathering parts. I have the clutch dampner # 24 & 25 and the lines that leads from it. #'s 13 & 14 below. Only oem piece I am missing is #15. I have encountered new knowledge of going with the stainless steel line instead if harder than normal driving will exist. I am hard on my auto so I think this would be in my favor. I seen a guys stainless line that looked like it went straight from his slave cylinder and looked like it went straight to his master cylinder bypassing all the other stuff I have mentioned above. Is that how it works. If not where does the stainless line attach to. Does the stainless replace #15 and another is needed to replace #13.



Modified by flight50 at 8:39 AM 12/10/2005

 

hey man its kris, the guy who you bought the 5spd mount from. yes my stainless steel clutch line is a 6.5ft long line that runs from the master cylinder directly to the slave cylinder. it bypasses the dampener completely. The reason why i used a stainless steel like was because when i was doing my 5spd swap it was extremely difficult to run the oem clutch line.

I really don't know what the dampener does. in my mind using a stainless steel line and oem line is the same thing. its just fluid being pushed.

 

whats up dude. thanks for coming thru. yeah when i looked in your bay the other day it looked like it went back toward the firewall instead of the dampner. i don't see the need for the dampner either if you can go this route. i don't know why writes just don't say to use a stainless line since this route is easier when swapping. i will go stainless to make my installers job a bit easier. the pic you sent are the parts that i was able to get from the junk yard so i won't be neeing your clutch line. thanks for mentioning it though.

 

np, good luck on your swap.

 

the clutch damper is basically like a shock absorber to reduce pulsations in the clutch pedal, if you have the right lines you can bypass it easily without an issue. i have it bypassed like this.


#13, 15, 12, 19.

some guys on here have it bypassed with one long 3an stainless line w/ a 10mm screw fitting on one end and a 12mm screw fitting on the other end that they got from http://www.bonacoinc.com. with this line you skip all the junk in the middle and just hook the 12mm end to the master and the 10mm end to the slave cyl.

the OEM line is only like $30 from the dealer and its a hydraulic type line so its actually stronger than SS lines.

heres a very detailed how to on the tranny conversion.
http://board.hondasociety.com/...11635

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by raceACCORDingly &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the clutch damper is basically like a shock absorber to reduce pulsations in the clutch pedal, if you have the right lines you can bypass it easily without an issue. i have it bypassed like this.


#13, 15, 12, 19.

some guys on here have it bypassed with one long 3an stainless line w/ a 10mm screw fitting on one end and a 12mm screw fitting on the other end that they got from http://www.bonacoinc.com. with this line you skip all the junk in the middle and just hook the 12mm end to the master and the 10mm end to the slave cyl.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

lol that's my picture. you took it from my for/sale oh hs huh? but yeah that was my old clutch line. still trying to sell.

 

yeah... your tasty_chicken?

some guys actually had problems bypassing the dampener the way i did when i was trying to tell them how i did it. they couldnt get it all to fit right but this picture explains everything.

flight why dont u just pick up the line from him. i think he wants 30 for all of it.. thats a good deal, the line alone from the dealer is like 30.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by raceACCORDingly &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah... your tasty_chicken?

some guys actually had problems bypassing the dampener the way i did when i was trying to tell them how i did it. they couldnt get it all to fit right but this picture explains everything.

flight why dont u just pick up the line from him. i think he wants 30 for all of it.. thats a good deal, the line alone from the dealer is like 30.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yup i'm tasty_chicken from hs.

yeah when i was doing my swap i couldn't fit it in correctly maybe if i had the entire motor out it would have been easier. So i took off the dampener and got everything running.

 

thanks raceaccordingly but i saw immalooser's setup in person and his line looked so much easier. he also recommend the stainless line. like you said just get the 12mm and the 10mm connections and i am good. this way the oem line doesn't have to be mounted to the firewall and mounting the dampner like it should be. besides i want to eliminate #15 if i can since its the rubber portion of the the clutch line. and i know i won't be a normal driver all the time so the rubber ain't gonna hold up as good. the stainless line is suppose to be able to handle rougher conditions placed on the clutch line better than oem by restricting the line that wants to expand. oem works fine until it gets worn out.