OT: Break-In period for a NEW car. Less opinions, more facts!
well my Type R has a deposit on it and will be sold next week.
BUT! I am picking up my new car also within the next few weeks (wont name it yet)
I am hearing VERY mixed opinions about the break-in period...
some say, and the manual says...take it EASY for the first 600 miles, vary RPM's and not as much highway driving.
others say, that the only way the rings and seals and **** will seal properly is by giving it hard acceleration for the first 50 miles and immedietely change the oil after. Claiming a stronger engine with no burned oil
caranddriver claims that hard acceleration during the first 500 miles of your car's break-in period can cause problems later, like burning oil and less power from the engine
im sick of hearing so many different opinions...
anyone have any logical/intelligent break-in theories for me?
by instinct, i would take it easy (under 4k rpms) for the first 600 miles, especially on the clutch and tranny...BUT according to some sources, this is wrong...
please give me insight!
BUT! I am picking up my new car also within the next few weeks (wont name it yet)
I am hearing VERY mixed opinions about the break-in period...
some say, and the manual says...take it EASY for the first 600 miles, vary RPM's and not as much highway driving.
others say, that the only way the rings and seals and **** will seal properly is by giving it hard acceleration for the first 50 miles and immedietely change the oil after. Claiming a stronger engine with no burned oil
caranddriver claims that hard acceleration during the first 500 miles of your car's break-in period can cause problems later, like burning oil and less power from the engine
im sick of hearing so many different opinions...
anyone have any logical/intelligent break-in theories for me?
by instinct, i would take it easy (under 4k rpms) for the first 600 miles, especially on the clutch and tranny...BUT according to some sources, this is wrong...
please give me insight!
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From: Riding The Endorphin High
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 330R »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I tend to listen to the manufacturer of the car.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
</TD></TR></TABLE>
What ever my right foot says, I do.
but I do change the oil and MTF each week for the first month No matter the mileage. then 2000-2500 afterwards.
but I do change the oil and MTF each week for the first month No matter the mileage. then 2000-2500 afterwards.
there was an old post on ClubSi.com years ago, when the car first came out that was a compilation of dyno numbers and break-in methods. the "running it hard" method consistently had 2-5% higher numbers than the "OEM recommended way"
i know that's in no way conclusive, but if we haven't been able to figure out the true RIGHT way to break in a motor after 90+ years of development, we probably never will. it really just comes down to personal opinions.
i will say this tho...i've taken apart way too many motors to count and the motors that were broken in easy, ALWAYS have the crosshatch left on the cylinder walls. the broken in hard one's almost never do. however, compression and leakdown numbers, along with oil consumption are pretty much identical. the variances are less than the margin of error in all the tests.
i know that's in no way conclusive, but if we haven't been able to figure out the true RIGHT way to break in a motor after 90+ years of development, we probably never will. it really just comes down to personal opinions.
i will say this tho...i've taken apart way too many motors to count and the motors that were broken in easy, ALWAYS have the crosshatch left on the cylinder walls. the broken in hard one's almost never do. however, compression and leakdown numbers, along with oil consumption are pretty much identical. the variances are less than the margin of error in all the tests.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Azcheron »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well my Type R has a deposit on it and will be sold next week.
BUT! I am picking up my new car also within the next few weeks (wont name it yet)
I am hearing VERY mixed opinions about the break-in period...
some say, and the manual says...take it EASY for the first 600 miles, vary RPM's and not as much highway driving.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Sounds like a Nissan to me
BUT! I am picking up my new car also within the next few weeks (wont name it yet)
I am hearing VERY mixed opinions about the break-in period...
some say, and the manual says...take it EASY for the first 600 miles, vary RPM's and not as much highway driving.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Sounds like a Nissan to me
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by intekragsr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would listen to earl laskey.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=878397</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's nice and all for a built, balanced & blueprinted engine (and one which requires tuning the A:F ratio), but it's not exactly the same thing when talking about a new car from the factory.
To the OP, if you plan on keeping the car for years and years, I would simply follow the guidelines for engine break-in that the manufacturer recommends in the owner's manual. This may sound like a dick move, but if you're only leasing the car for three or four years, and you want to try the "hard" break-in method for perhaps a little more power earlier in the engine's life, then have at it.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=878397</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's nice and all for a built, balanced & blueprinted engine (and one which requires tuning the A:F ratio), but it's not exactly the same thing when talking about a new car from the factory.
To the OP, if you plan on keeping the car for years and years, I would simply follow the guidelines for engine break-in that the manufacturer recommends in the owner's manual. This may sound like a dick move, but if you're only leasing the car for three or four years, and you want to try the "hard" break-in method for perhaps a little more power earlier in the engine's life, then have at it.
On my turbo motor...since I broke it in and drove it like an old lady still had the cross hatching on it. The condition looked as if it was just done.
I feel that the 'breaking it in like an old lady, and changing the oil like an obsessive compulsive nut-case' for the first couple hundred miles will probably make the engine last alot longer.
My small .02
*edit: I also followed the break in period recommendations off of the "Import Builders" website.
Modified by Haleiwa-Brando at 11:12 AM 12/10/2005
I feel that the 'breaking it in like an old lady, and changing the oil like an obsessive compulsive nut-case' for the first couple hundred miles will probably make the engine last alot longer.
My small .02
*edit: I also followed the break in period recommendations off of the "Import Builders" website.
Modified by Haleiwa-Brando at 11:12 AM 12/10/2005
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Azcheron »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">any more theories?
one way HAS to be better than the other...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Why?
Many of the theories are like urban legend and have developed over the years not all pertaining to modern cars, engines and breakins. As was already mentioned you've heard more than one concept. And it might be a good idea to follow as closely as possible to the manufacturers suggestions.
BITOG forums always have nifty topics like this to scour:
http://theoildrop.server101.co...00389
one way HAS to be better than the other...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Why?
Many of the theories are like urban legend and have developed over the years not all pertaining to modern cars, engines and breakins. As was already mentioned you've heard more than one concept. And it might be a good idea to follow as closely as possible to the manufacturers suggestions.
BITOG forums always have nifty topics like this to scour:
http://theoildrop.server101.co...00389
To me, it seems like the "hard break in" way is just in existance so people can justify not being able to restrain themselves from mashing the gas pedal on a new car
I am currently breaking in my freshly built motor , first 100 miles I baby it then I am in the second 100 miles . Now I am taking the revs up more then 3-4 K , now I am taking it to 8 k rpms for not more than 2 seconds . Then after you done the 2nd 100 miles change all the fluids and you are good to go !! That`s a method that I read somewhere here on H-T .
It`s funny how there are all those methods out there
I think that they all work because you never hear anyone complaining !!
It`s funny how there are all those methods out there
I think that they all work because you never hear anyone complaining !!
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From: Formerly of SF moved to DFW and now back in SF, CA, USA
It's simple... Follow the manufacturers recommended break-in period. So if anything goes wrong they can't blame it on a bad break-in or something that you didn't follow per the manufacturer.
So stop listening to everyone cuz everyone has their own opinion on everything. Follow the manufacturer and form your own opinion!
Good luck!
So stop listening to everyone cuz everyone has their own opinion on everything. Follow the manufacturer and form your own opinion!
Good luck!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Azcheron »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well my Type R has a deposit on it and will be sold next week.
BUT! I am picking up my new car also within the next few weeks (wont name it yet)
I am hearing VERY mixed opinions about the break-in period...
some say, and the manual says...take it EASY for the first 600 miles, vary RPM's and not as much highway driving.
others say, that the only way the rings and seals and **** will seal properly is by giving it hard acceleration for the first 50 miles and immedietely change the oil after. Claiming a stronger engine with no burned oil
caranddriver claims that hard acceleration during the first 500 miles of your car's break-in period can cause problems later, like burning oil and less power from the engine
im sick of hearing so many different opinions...
anyone have any logical/intelligent break-in theories for me?
by instinct, i would take it easy (under 4k rpms) for the first 600 miles, especially on the clutch and tranny...BUT according to some sources, this is wrong...
please give me insight!</TD></TR></TABLE>
it won't really matter all that much cause you don't get to decide on how your car is broken in initially for the first 8-11 or more miles. with new motors i'd probably change oil at 50, 100, 500 and 1000.. and probably transmission at least couple times
BUT! I am picking up my new car also within the next few weeks (wont name it yet)
I am hearing VERY mixed opinions about the break-in period...
some say, and the manual says...take it EASY for the first 600 miles, vary RPM's and not as much highway driving.
others say, that the only way the rings and seals and **** will seal properly is by giving it hard acceleration for the first 50 miles and immedietely change the oil after. Claiming a stronger engine with no burned oil
caranddriver claims that hard acceleration during the first 500 miles of your car's break-in period can cause problems later, like burning oil and less power from the engine
im sick of hearing so many different opinions...
anyone have any logical/intelligent break-in theories for me?
by instinct, i would take it easy (under 4k rpms) for the first 600 miles, especially on the clutch and tranny...BUT according to some sources, this is wrong...
please give me insight!</TD></TR></TABLE>
it won't really matter all that much cause you don't get to decide on how your car is broken in initially for the first 8-11 or more miles. with new motors i'd probably change oil at 50, 100, 500 and 1000.. and probably transmission at least couple times
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Gee3 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It's simple... Follow the manufacturers recommended break-in period. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Agreed.
Agreed.
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