2nd Gear Synchro goes KABOOM...What Else to Replace While Tranny is Dropped?
Here's my story...
a.) I get a Comptech lightweight flywheel installed in June along with a change of MTF from Honda to Redline. 5 months later, my 1st gear starts to grind when I quickshift into the gear. There is no grind when I baby it into 1st.
b.) About a month ago, I changed MTF from Redline back to Honda and grinding in 1st is gone. One month later, a majority of my 1st to 2nd upshifts and 3rd to 2nd downshifts are greeted with a nice healthy CRUNCH!
c.) I was also able to CRUNCH, although only once, a 2nd to 3rd and 4th to 5th upshifts.
What I plan to do...
a.) Buy a 1st/2nd 3rd/4th and 5th/Reverse synchro sleeve sets to get rid of the crunching.
b.) Buy a 2nd gear that goes on the countershaft and 3rd, 4th, 5th gears that go on the mainshaft just in case the dog teeth on the gears are damaged.
c.) Buy 2 ball bearings that are on the mainshaft and 1 ball bearing on the countershaft as well as a new throwout bearing.
Questions...
a.) I want to replace the 1st gear on the countershaft also but I'm running a JDM FD. Where can I buy just the JDM 1st gear?
b.) Is it overkill to replace all the gears I plan on swapping?
c.) Are there any other bearings or wear items I should get replaced?
TIA
a.) I get a Comptech lightweight flywheel installed in June along with a change of MTF from Honda to Redline. 5 months later, my 1st gear starts to grind when I quickshift into the gear. There is no grind when I baby it into 1st.
b.) About a month ago, I changed MTF from Redline back to Honda and grinding in 1st is gone. One month later, a majority of my 1st to 2nd upshifts and 3rd to 2nd downshifts are greeted with a nice healthy CRUNCH!
c.) I was also able to CRUNCH, although only once, a 2nd to 3rd and 4th to 5th upshifts.
What I plan to do...
a.) Buy a 1st/2nd 3rd/4th and 5th/Reverse synchro sleeve sets to get rid of the crunching.
b.) Buy a 2nd gear that goes on the countershaft and 3rd, 4th, 5th gears that go on the mainshaft just in case the dog teeth on the gears are damaged.
c.) Buy 2 ball bearings that are on the mainshaft and 1 ball bearing on the countershaft as well as a new throwout bearing.
Questions...
a.) I want to replace the 1st gear on the countershaft also but I'm running a JDM FD. Where can I buy just the JDM 1st gear?
b.) Is it overkill to replace all the gears I plan on swapping?
c.) Are there any other bearings or wear items I should get replaced?
TIA
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CPR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Questions...
a.) I want to replace the 1st gear on the countershaft also but I'm running a JDM FD. Where can I buy just the JDM 1st gear?
b.) Is it overkill to replace all the gears I plan on swapping?
c.) Are there any other bearings or wear items I should get replaced?
TIA</TD></TR></TABLE>
ouch! JDM 1st gear is not easy to get. Actually, buy the ATS one instead. suggestion to you is to take the whole tranny apart and inspect it.
Questions...
a.) I want to replace the 1st gear on the countershaft also but I'm running a JDM FD. Where can I buy just the JDM 1st gear?
b.) Is it overkill to replace all the gears I plan on swapping?
c.) Are there any other bearings or wear items I should get replaced?
TIA</TD></TR></TABLE>
ouch! JDM 1st gear is not easy to get. Actually, buy the ATS one instead. suggestion to you is to take the whole tranny apart and inspect it.
That is going to be an expensive repair. I spent around $500 for parts to fix a first to second grind on my old tranny.
I have a new discovery today. When going slow in 1st gear for too long, it pops out of the gear and goes into neutral. I guess this means my 1st and 2nd gear synchros are done, eh?
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really hard misshifts can do that... i'm betting it's a bent/broken shift fork not a syncro. if one of your syncros went then it would just grind horribly whenever you put it into that gear. look at buying a new shift fork, 2nd gear syncro and 1st/2nd slider set... all of which can be bought from GearSpeed except the fork... for that call up Len or your local acura dealer...
here is the OE parts and ish...

you'll need #7... 23521-P21-315 which is around $300

and you'll need 1-2 fork set #3... 24220-P80-000 which is around $70

you'll need #7... 23521-P21-315 which is around $300

and you'll need 1-2 fork set #3... 24220-P80-000 which is around $70
Thanks for the input onePointsix. As for mis-shifting, I've maybe grinded gears a total of 10 times MAX, through my own fault, by letting the clutch out a millisecond too early while the shift lever wasn't completely in the gear yet. I've owned the car for 5 years so 2 times of grinding a year due to human error isn't excessive.
I thought about going the GM Synchromesh route to help alleviate the problem but decided against it since I would just be prolonging the inevitable and might even cause more damage to other parts of the tranny.
After some researching through the archives, I have a feeling that the Redline MTF I experimented with contributed to my tranny acting up all of a sudden. The artist formerly known as Soup **** stated that our tranny and synchronizers need friction to work correctly. Using synthetic lubes somehow hinder this necessary friction which can cause problems down the road. Any thoughts on this?
I thought about going the GM Synchromesh route to help alleviate the problem but decided against it since I would just be prolonging the inevitable and might even cause more damage to other parts of the tranny.
After some researching through the archives, I have a feeling that the Redline MTF I experimented with contributed to my tranny acting up all of a sudden. The artist formerly known as Soup **** stated that our tranny and synchronizers need friction to work correctly. Using synthetic lubes somehow hinder this necessary friction which can cause problems down the road. Any thoughts on this?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by onePOINTsix »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> if one of your syncros went then it would just grind horribly whenever you put it into that gear. r... </TD></TR></TABLE>
That is not true! I am assuming you understand the role of the syncro, if you do then you would understand that a bad syncro 'usually' occurs at higher RPM's, ie. Rev matching ect. Hence it would not grind all the time.
I do however agree that it does not sound like all of the syncros are bad. The syncros help it in to gear, they do not hold it there, therefor ruling out the 1st gear syncro.
Does 1st have a syncro? I thought first and reverse were seperate and did not have syncs?
That is not true! I am assuming you understand the role of the syncro, if you do then you would understand that a bad syncro 'usually' occurs at higher RPM's, ie. Rev matching ect. Hence it would not grind all the time.
I do however agree that it does not sound like all of the syncros are bad. The syncros help it in to gear, they do not hold it there, therefor ruling out the 1st gear syncro.
Does 1st have a syncro? I thought first and reverse were seperate and did not have syncs?
i told u not to use that crap
sound like u just need a 1/2 syncro
but if you plan on changing all the parts you just listed, its more sensible to just buy a brand new transmission from the dealer
sound like u just need a 1/2 syncro
but if you plan on changing all the parts you just listed, its more sensible to just buy a brand new transmission from the dealer
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Arsenal »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That is not true! I am assuming you understand the role of the syncro, if you do then you would understand that a bad syncro 'usually' occurs at higher RPM's, ie. Rev matching ect. Hence it would not grind all the time.</TD></TR></TABLE>that is true but if eather the slider or gear itself is wore down enough (like insted of \/ its like |_| ) you will usually have very harsh engagement and grinding becasue the slider has a hard time fully engauging into the syncro and/or gear... remember that when the slider starts to engauge the synco it's slowing down the gear so the slider can mesh properly into the next gear... also a broken synco locking ring can cause the car to not stay in gear... except i have no idea how you could end up breaking one but i'm sure it's possible
just my .02 ... imho send it to gearspeed
just my .02 ... imho send it to gearspeed
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dan GSR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i told u not to use that crap
sound like u just need a 1/2 syncro
but if you plan on changing all the parts you just listed, its more sensible to just buy a brand new transmission from the dealer</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes... only change what you need, and do the input shaft bearing while it is apart. There is no reason at all to change the gears, they are constant mesh and unless somthing blew up inside the case they are going to be fine.
sound like u just need a 1/2 syncro
but if you plan on changing all the parts you just listed, its more sensible to just buy a brand new transmission from the dealer</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes... only change what you need, and do the input shaft bearing while it is apart. There is no reason at all to change the gears, they are constant mesh and unless somthing blew up inside the case they are going to be fine.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Yes... only change what you need, and do the input shaft bearing while it is apart. There is no reason at all to change the gears, they are constant mesh and unless somthing blew up inside the case they are going to be fine.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm only worried about the gears that mesh with the synchros since they have those dog teeth that can also wear down.
Yes... only change what you need, and do the input shaft bearing while it is apart. There is no reason at all to change the gears, they are constant mesh and unless somthing blew up inside the case they are going to be fine.</TD></TR></TABLE>I'm only worried about the gears that mesh with the synchros since they have those dog teeth that can also wear down.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CPR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I'm only worried about the gears that mesh with the synchros since they have those dog teeth that can also wear down.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Unless they are bad, then dont worry about it.
I'm only worried about the gears that mesh with the synchros since they have those dog teeth that can also wear down.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Unless they are bad, then dont worry about it.
You said that you already have the JDM FD, right? Who did your install? I was thinking that it wasnt the Redline MTF, it was someone that overlooked something when putting your tranny back together after the install.
maybe?
maybe?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nafreak »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You said that you already have the JDM FD, right? Who did your install? I was thinking that it wasnt the Redline MTF, it was someone that overlooked something when putting your tranny back together after the install.
maybe?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I've had the JDM FD for about 30,300miles now so I think if there was a problem with it, it would have appeared a lot sooner.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Black R »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you're already going in there, then might as well upgrade everything you can...
ats 3/4/5 gearset? ats 1st gear?
gearspeed carbon coated syncros.
double check all clearances!</TD></TR></TABLE>
I think I'll be going with just the 1/2 synchro set for now and replacing all the main/countershaft bearings for now. I'm trying to save up for something else at the moment.
maybe?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I've had the JDM FD for about 30,300miles now so I think if there was a problem with it, it would have appeared a lot sooner.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Black R »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you're already going in there, then might as well upgrade everything you can...
ats 3/4/5 gearset? ats 1st gear?
gearspeed carbon coated syncros.
double check all clearances!</TD></TR></TABLE>
I think I'll be going with just the 1/2 synchro set for now and replacing all the main/countershaft bearings for now. I'm trying to save up for something else at the moment.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CPR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> After some researching through the archives, I have a feeling that the Redline MTF I experimented with contributed to my tranny acting up all of a sudden. The artist formerly known as Soup **** stated that our tranny and synchronizers need friction to work correctly. Using synthetic lubes somehow hinder this necessary friction which can cause problems down the road. Any thoughts on this?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have also recently ruined a few tranny parts (3/4 synchro and 3rd gear) while using Redline MTL. In my opinion the stuff is the cause of many tranny issues! At least in Honda trannies anyway. My tranny was perfect before I put in the MTL with my new motor and after 4 months, all of a sudden the tranny grinds and crunches while upshifting and downshifting into 3rd, WTF. I used to use GM synchromesh fluid all the time (5-6 years) with no issues at all and I have recently switched back to it, after my tranny was re-build of course (could have been avoided
). I will never try anything else. Redline MTL gets a big
and Gm synchromesh gets a
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have also recently ruined a few tranny parts (3/4 synchro and 3rd gear) while using Redline MTL. In my opinion the stuff is the cause of many tranny issues! At least in Honda trannies anyway. My tranny was perfect before I put in the MTL with my new motor and after 4 months, all of a sudden the tranny grinds and crunches while upshifting and downshifting into 3rd, WTF. I used to use GM synchromesh fluid all the time (5-6 years) with no issues at all and I have recently switched back to it, after my tranny was re-build of course (could have been avoided
). I will never try anything else. Redline MTL gets a big
and Gm synchromesh gets a
Redline has worked fine for me on track with no issues..... however I much prefer Motul Gear 300.
I drove the car for about 5 days but always skipping 2nd gear. In other words, I would rev to about 5000rpms in 1st gear then shift to third gently. By the time I'm off the clutch after shifting to 3rd, I'm at about 2500rpms. Am I causing any harm in doing this? When I took a ride in Yack's car, I noticed he usually goes from 1st to 3rd to 5th so I'm thinking I should be OK doing 1st to 3rd. Yea or Nea?
That's fine... I do 1-3-5 in my car all the time.
Or maybe that is why I need a tranny
But as long as you don't bog the motor or slip the clutch too much it will be ok.
Or maybe that is why I need a tranny

But as long as you don't bog the motor or slip the clutch too much it will be ok.
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