What parts do I need and what needs to be done/removed?

 

you need brake lines, a prop valve and remove ABS.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ADVAN EG2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you need brake lines, a prop valve and remove ABS.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I would need lines for a non ABS 94 EX? And a prop valve for non ABS 94 EX? And what do you mean by remove ABS? That resevoir that's under the battery? Isn't there something different at the wheels where a magnet detects the movement? I'm new to ABS and don't want it for autox.

 

Why do REAL tech questions no longer get answered here in the TECH forum?

 

those are wheel sensors at the wheel. and no, you won't have to remove those if you don't want to. you'll need to remove the abs reservoir (looks like another brake fluid reservoir), switch out the proportioning valve from a integra rs, and get new brake lines from the master cylinder to the proportioning valve. and possibly the hard lines under the car also. (but i'm not sure on the last one)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kyden &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">those are wheel sensors at the wheel. and no, you won't have to remove those if you don't want to.</TD></TR></TABLE>

It's extra weight

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kyden &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you'll need to remove the abs reservoir (looks like another brake fluid reservoir),</TD></TR></TABLE>

Obviously


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kyden &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">switch out the proportioning valve from a integra rs, and get new brake lines from the master cylinder to the proportioning valve.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Why the integra rs prop valve? Why not the 94 EX non ABS valve? And why new lines from the MC to the PV?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kyden &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and possibly the hard lines under the car also. (but i'm not sure on the last one)</TD></TR></TABLE>

Can anybody verify?

My questions are legit. My last car was a DX so I didn't have any of that **** to deal with.

 

I may not be able to really help you convert, but I just wanted to ask why you'd want to de-ABS the car?

I know people talk **** about ABS, but I cannot doubt that the ABS is an advantage.

Example?

My friend had a 1993 CX hatch with full ITR brakes, booster, master cylinder, Integra prop valve, etc. - basically everything was ITR-spec except it was non-ABS.

My friend's ITR would still stop better than this guy's Cx, and the Cx was easily 300lbs. lighter!!!

Why?

ABS.

So if you're truly bent on removing it all I'm sure I could come up with a list of what's needed.

 

To answer your questions, Tom. The ABS doesn't work at the present. Yes, people do talk **** about ABS, but I don't notice. This is personal preference. I live in Buffalo where it tends to snow a lot. I've been driving for 10 yrs. and have never had ABS, nor an accident (besides that bitch who gave it to my Protege right up the *** at 55mph). I am confident enough in my driving ability that I don't want the extra non-maintenence free parts under my hood. ABS can also play a role in false sense of security. There's also autox. Have you ever autox'ed a car with ABS? I have and don't like the feel of the pulsating pedal. I didn't feel like I had the same turning control. I tend to trail brake a little. I think that is all.

 

Alrighty then!

Let me do some brain storming and I'll reply within 20 minutes or so.

 

Well without an ABS car here to compare to my own non-ABS civic I can only guess here, but here goes:

1. Remove wheel sensors

2. Remove ABS modulator and accumulator and if they tie into the proportioning valve find a non-ABS prop valve

3. Remove ABS computer - I think it's mounted inside the car in the rear 1/4 panel areas behind the interior plastic

I'd really have to see how the hard lines are routed on the firewall and see what all ties into what to know if you'll need any non-ABS chassis Civic hard lines or not.

I have a feeling you may end up needing a few hard lines that go from the prop valve to the m/c, but again I'm guessing without having one here to look at in person.

You can keep the master cylinder/booster you have now since the only difference with the ABS one is the larger fitting closest to the firewall on the m/c.