I think I searched this well enough and didn't really find what I was looking for.
Does anyone have a write-up of a stock D16A6 completely rebuilt using all stock parts, or maybe very few non-stock parts?
This would be going in a 91crx dx.
Thanks!

 

www.helminc.com

Start by purchasing one of these, and you will be off to a great start. Helm's manuals may seem very expensive, but for the money, you are getting the most complete guide you could ever hope for and more. How hard it'll be and how much it'll cost all depends on the condition of the engine before you rebuild it. Trust me, it's not that bad. A bit of advice that will save you headaches in the long run: Keep everything in very well labeled zip lock bags, you'll not have as much of a hard time remembering where something went or losing things. Good luck, and have any questions on the way, just ask/search, that's what we're here for.

 

there was a write up by the someone on here that was from homemadeturbo.com, he built a d16a6, only using oem parts and ebay pistons which bumped compression..

this would be a great daily driver setup, and if you want a cam go with something from exospeed for sr909 or if you want to spend more go with one of cranes.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ppfalcon &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">there was a write up by the someone on here that was from homemadeturbo.com, he built a d16a6, only using oem parts and ebay pistons which bumped compression..

this would be a great daily driver setup, and if you want a cam go with something from exospeed for sr909 or if you want to spend more go with one of cranes.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That is what I am looking to do. Build a strong, reliable d16a6. I wouldn't mind doing a few things to the motor, but do want to keep it minimal.

I found this link....https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=401890&page=1
but couldn't find the one that you were talking about.

Any more tips for the build.

 

I did it in August, motor is running strong ever since. IM me and I can send you the full text, it was hosted on the crxresource (which is down at the moment).

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by downest &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I did it in August, motor is running strong ever since. IM me and I can send you the full text, it was hosted on the crxresource (which is down at the moment).</TD></TR></TABLE>

IMed Thanks.

 

UP

 

Ok I got a lot of PM's asking about this. I'll copy and paste the text here and also you can get to it on my school webspace. I wrote this up in august for the crx resource. If anyone is in the capital district area of NY, or in NH, I'd be happy to help, nothing better than rebuilding a motor. I'm doing a Mazda V6 for a friend currently, 160k on it and it looks like crap inside, scored bearings and everything. Crack open an abused D series with 200K+ and the bottom end looks like it came from Japan last week.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
_____Rebuilding a D16A6_____

This is my story of rebuilding the D16A6 in my 1990 CRX Si. I got the car with about 220,000 miles on the clock, drove it for about a month after replacing the alternator and resoldering the main relay. During a 200 mile road trip (I had been on a few, the car was fine with that) I blew a radiator hose, lost all my coolant, and blew the headgasket before I could get off the interstate. The shop that towed the car replaced the hose and told me it wasn't worth replacing the head gasket on such an old car, it would cost $600-$700, and they didn't even want to bother with it. With a week of work, not only did I replace the headgasket, but I rebuilt the engine, replaced all the rest of the hoses and belts, put in a new radiator, new waterpump, and removed the AC. I also found some parts along the way to replace the broken trim pieces and missing parts for the interior, so my car came out looking a lot better in the end, and all for a total of about $450.


&lt;&lt;&lt;&lt;&lt; MATERIALS AND TOOLS &gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;

So here we go, I'll start with things you need to have before you even buy parts:

Get at least 2 service manuals! I have the Honda factory manual (available for download on the resource) and also the Haynes, which is $5-$10 at your local auto shop. As XXPaulCPXX wrote in his rebuild of a 1st gen, the factory manual is best, but the Haynes will show you how to avoid expensive Honda tools and how to DIY a lot of things, and when you need to make a decision about leaving something alone. You can get the factory manual from http://www.helminc.com.

Have a working car to drive while you have the CRX apart. Luckily I'm a student, staying with my dad, and he has 2 cars, so I was all set.

Get a gallon of uncut simple green. Also get a spray bottle to put it in. It's great for cleaning everything, including your hands, the crap that's in your engine can't be cut with regular soap, I even had trouble using Gojo with some stuff.

You will need a few cans of carb and choke cleaner. Paul said 6 cans I think, I got by with 2, but they were both empty by the time I finished and it's a lot easier to have a full can, as it will spray at angles and upside down.

For stuck bolts (crank pulley and exhaust studs especially) you're going to want some PB Blaster or some other penetrating lube. I also used a torch for the crank pulley bolt. Also get some anti-seize for reassembly.

If you rebuild the head, get some engine assembly grease. I used some stuff from permatex this time, but in the past I've used a product by Briggs&Stratton for lubing the valve stems. It contains lead so be careful.

And while you're rebuilding that head, lap the valves! You're going to need some valve lapping compound.

Get some RTV or Hondabond. Everyone on the resource says not to use it. I even say not to use it now, but you will, it's like that crescent wrench everyone owns, but nobody uses.

Have something to keep parts separate. Some people use ziplock bags, I used a plastic box I have for organizing screws and stuff. Just to give you an idea of why: each valve has 6 parts you need to reinstall. With 16 valves, that's 96 parts just in the valves, and those keepers are easy to lose.

Get two oil filters and enough oil for at least 2 changes. After the rebuild and filling the oil up, I changed it 10 miles later, the assembly grease and all the stuff you use to clean the engine makes it pretty nasty. Likewise with coolant. Get a flush kit too to make sure there aren't pieces of old gasket floating around in there.

Get a few breaker bars. I have a 12" piece of electrical conduit that I keep in the toolbox for most bolts, it also makes a lot of the bolts in the engine bay easier to reach since there's no room to move your hands. For the crank pulley, I used the handle off my dad's floor jack. If he had a bigger one, I would have used that.

Of course, you need at least one jack. I got by with just one, but if I did it again I would have at least one more, I might even put the whole car on jackstands (safety first!). If you do what I did, spend as little time as possible under the car. I like to put the wheels under the sides just in case. I'm nervous about the jacks because my uncle had a car fall on his head when he was 15 because a jack failed. He was VERY lucky to survive with minimal problems. USE JACKSTANDS!

You're going to need a bunch of regular tools too. Thankfully, 99% of the bolts and nuts on the CRX are 10, 12, or 14mm. That means you want to have a regular socket, deep socket, and a few wrenches in each of those sizes. There are a few oddballs, the crank pulley bolt for instance is a 17mm, and the motor mounts were bigger too. I used my Craftsman 150something piece mechanic's tool set with a few extra random sockets and got by fine. Most of these will include screwdrivers too, make sure you have at least one magnetic tipped screwdriver.

Get some adapters to go between 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" drives, they will help a lot. For instance, my torque wrench is a 1/2" drive, and I don't have any 12mm or 10mm sockets to fit it.

Get a whole bunch of different sized extensions for your sockets. I would recommend something with a lifetime guarantee, I snapped 2 on the crank pulley bolt.

A torque wrench is a must. It wouldn't be fun to have your nice new head on there and find out that it's warped because you didn't follow the torque sequence and specs.

Have a rubber mallet handy, your CRX may not have ever been taken apart, and things like to stick together, rapping them a couple of times (or more for some parts) helps a lot.

It's not necessary, but a cordless drill is really helpful. If you have an adapter that fits sockets, it makes it a lot easier to take things off, like the bumper. You might also want to buy a plastic scrubbing pad that will fit it, it will take the crap off the head that the old gasket leaves behind. This will save your back. You're going to need it to hone the cylinders too.

Now for some special tools! Get a valve spring compressor. These are $15 from Sears, but they need to be modified for the little tiny valves in the CRX. Get the one that's for overhead valves. Squeeze the end that pushes on the top of the spring in a vice so that it's small enough so that both parts hold the spring (you will know how wide this is when you get to this point). Also, grind down the ends of the arms, otherwise they wont fit between the spring coils.

To do the rings, you need a piston ring compressor and a hone. The hone is pretty straightforward. My Haynes manual has a little blurb about the "bottle brush" style, but I haven't ever seen one of those. You can get a hone at Sears or NAPA, and probably a lot of other places too. For the piston ring compressor, I got the one that looks like a big hose clamp (see pics). After I finished, I was informed of a different kind that's much easier to use. Get that one, putting the new rings in is a real pain with the one I had, it almost takes two people to effectively clamp it down.

Get friendly with your local junkyard, you will find a lot of stuff you can use when you snap a stud. Remember that a lot of cars use the D16, so it shouldn't be hard to find parts. I lucked out and found another 1990 Si at my local place, and ended up finding a lot of things I "needed".

Keep a computer around so you can check the resource, there is more information than you can imagine on there. I probably wouldn't have been able to do this without it. Don't be afraid to ask questions, even if they seem stupid to you. It's better than messing up your engine.


&lt;&lt;&lt;&lt;&lt; PARTS &gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;

Now it's time to order your parts! I went through ICON, http://www.iconautoparts.com, suport resource members! If John doesn't have a part, ask him about it and it will be there the next day, he's a great guy and is more than willing to help you out. I do recommend OEM parts (except the headgasket) but get everything ahead of time, don't go to your local Honda place a few days into the project. They are expensive and will make you wait for shipping.

Here's a list of what I got:
Gasket Set A - All the top-end seals you'll need, and some you don't.
MLS Performance Headgasket - when you see the cardboard OEM HG, you'll understand why
Timing Belt - always a good idea
Water Pump - if you have to do the timing belt anyway, it's easy to do, and it's nice to know it's done
Oil Pan Gasket - mine leaked, and if you do the bottom end you will need to replace it.
Piston Rings
Spark Plugs
Alternator Belt - Took out the old one and decided to do it last minute, but it can be done at any time, takes about 2 minutes
Misc radiator hoses - have you replaced them recently? If not, you should
Radiator - yours might be ok, mine was half gone
6 pack - for the END of a day of work! don't fool around inside your engine bay!


&lt;&lt;&lt;&lt;&lt; TEAR DOWN &gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;

Ok, now it's time to dive in there and bring your car back to life. Don't set expectations for the day, take your time and be patient and you'll do it right, it will get done when it's time. The first drive when you get everything working right will be well worth it. Before you do anything, sit down and read over the appropriate section in the manual AT LEAST TWICE. Also, now would be a good time to start spraying the crank pulley bolt, every hour.

First thing, remove the hood, bumper and battery. I know it's a pain to put the hood back on, but it gets in the way. I know you think you don't need to take the bumper off, just do it. I waited 3 days, and I felt a lot better after doing it, especially when cleaning the block. Unscrew the gas cap a little too, it will keep pressure from building in the fuel system, otherwise the fuel rail will constantly drip while you're working, bad news.

Now pull your intake and disconnect basically every tube and wire going to the head/intake manifold/throttlebody. I left the throttle cable on and tucked the clutch cable back to keep it out of the way. Label everything, most of the electrical stuff is easy to do, as the plugs are all different, but the tubes and stuff aren't so labeling them is a good idea. Take off the timing belt cover and timing belt. I cut my old T-belt to make it easier. Pull the alternator belt off and let the alternator sit all the way back, it gives you more space to reach under the intake manifold.

Now, I think you could pull the head with the intake on it, but I unscrewed all the nuts and just pulled it back. Be very patient! There's one nut, in the middle and under the runners, that can easily be dropped. You will know what I'm talking about when you get to it. I got it loose, and unscrewed it with my fingers while holding a magnetic screwdriver on it. Be careful not to drop stuff, the CRX has a way of hiding important parts (and tools!) in the abyss under the engine.

Now you want to take off the exhaust manifold. The manual says to disconnect it from the downpipe. If you decide to do that, good luck! On mine, the nuts pulled the studs right out of the head, so there wasn't really the need to move the manifold. If you do want to, you're best option is to take the radiator/condenser out.

Now disconnect everything from the valve cover, and pull it off. Loosen the head bolts in the sequence given in the manual, clean them, and put them in a safe place. Now it's time to pull the head off. I found this a lot easier with someone to help me, it's a bit awkward to pull it off evenly yourself. You might want to give it a few quick raps with the mallet.

Don't bother cleaning the head, the machine shop will do that for you. Remove the distributor. Follow the procedure in the service manual to remove the rocker assembly, it will be stuck, and it has to come out vertically. Don't pry anything, be patient, and it will come out. Take the camshaft out.

Now take out your modified valve spring compressor. The arms should grab between the springs, set the ends of the inner part on the end and screw it down. Now you have the spring compressed, push the valve up from the bottom and you should be able to see the keepers. Get them with a magnetic screwdriver or pencil magnet and put them aside. Now pull the whole spring and compressor back, it will come right off the valve. Unscrew the compressor, pull the valve out the bottom, wipe it all down and put everything aside. Repeat 16 times.
Now take the head to your local machine shop to get resurfaced and cleaned. They will pull out the valve stem seals and the spring seats for you, and clean the head up. Mine cost $45 to resurface, $15 to clean up the ports, and $10 for a hazardous waste disposal fee.

The head is gone now so it's time to clean up the block. This is, in my opinion, the most monotonous and tedious part of the whole project. First off, stuff something, like a few rags, down into the water jacket to keep it from filling up with pieces of gasket. Now scrape off the old gasket with something soft, like a credit card (an old one) or a plastic putty knife. Use C&C cleaner liberally here. If you got the plastic scrubber for the drill, it will save you a lot of headache now. If you have a compressor, blow everything out when you're done. I used the C&C cleaner, it shoots pretty hard and evaporates quickly. When you're done, cover the block so nothing gets in there before you put the head on.

You should still have all the valve assemblies, and if the head is still gone, and even if it isn't, you can clean them off now. I let mine soak in C&C cleaner all night, but it didn't help. There was so much crust on there I don't know how the car was running (I think everyone says that, you'll see!). I cleaned mine off on a soft wire wheel on my grinding wheel. It took almost 10 minutes for each intake valve and about 5 for the exhaust valves. Get everything off and wipe them down. Remember to keep all the valves with their respective parts.

Get back under the car and get ready to be filthy. To get to the pistons you need to pull the oil pan, to get to that you need to pull some exhaust stuff out. This was the most dirty part of the car, between oil, road grime, and rust flakes I think I shaved about 20 pounds off the car. Before you climb under there, put some glasses on! I think Paul also mentioned this, metal can get in your eyes without you knowing, then one day you get an MRI and it comes out in a very unpleasant manner. I have sunglasses with yellow lenses and clear lenses, I found the yellow to be the best, they make a great contrast so it's easy to see stuff. First thing, get your biggest socket wrench that holds a 1/2" socket. The exhaust, at least on my car, seemed to have imperial sized nuts on the exhaust stuff. Disconnect the downpipe from the cat, and all the brackets holding the pipe to the engine. With the head off, it's pretty easy to pull the manifold/DP. Don't bother trying to separate the manifold and the downpipe, you'll round the nuts, break some sockets, and be generally irritated. Also don't forget to disconnect the oxygen sensor when you pull it out. Do your best to remember where the brackets go, when I put mine back in it took me a couple of minutes because I rushed taking it all out.

Ok, now grab your drill with a 10mm socket and a couple of extensions. There are about 500 nuts and bolts holding the oil pan, so the drill makes taking it off a lot easier. Unscrew everything around the oil pan. On the passenger side of the car you will see a thin plate covering the flywheel. Pull that off, it takes some finesse, and then unscrew the last two things holding the oil pan on. Now get all those fasteners out and pull the pan. I had to give mine a few whacks to break it loose. Be ready for a mess.

Now you can see the crank and connecting rods above you. Rotate the crank with a ratchet until you can free up each of the rods. Unbolt them (keep everything together for each piston) and use something soft like a piece of wood to push the pistons out the top of the block. Be aware you are going to get a lot of oil on you doing this, it just keeps coming out. You could do more disassembly of the bottom end here, but I just wanted to do the rings. Wipe away some of that oil and everything looks like it rolled out of Japan last week.

You can pull the old rings off with your hands, no problem. The second one down tends to break before you get it off, but the others have enough flex you can take them off whole.


&lt;&lt;&lt;&lt;&lt; BREAK &gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;

Stop, breathe, you're around half done.


&lt;&lt;&lt;&lt;&lt; ENGINE REASSEMBLY &gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;

Clean up the pistons, do a good job and make sure the oil passages (three holes on the bottom ring langs on each piston) are clean. If you've been burning oil, they are filthy. I used C&C cleaner and a toothbrush to clean it out. Now install the new rings. Pay attention to the orientation and order. The box with the rings should say which goes where, and which way to face the dotted or beveled edges. Be careful with that second ring, the old ones broke easy coming out, and it's a little more brittle than the others, so take your time and you won't be ordering an extra set.

You also need to hone the cylinders so the new rings can get some oil. Take the hone in your drill, carfully compress it and put it in the cylinder, and turn the drill on, working it up and down to make a cross-hatched pattern on the walls. This shouldn't take too many passes, maybe five and it should be good. Remember to let the hone stop spinning before you remove it and use a lot of oil to keep dust and filings from staying in the engine. Do this for all cylinders, of course.

Now compress the rings with the ring compressor and set the piston on the block. Remember, the pistons have to go in a certain way, one side is marked "IN". If you have the bad ring compressor, it's hard to push them down and have the rings go in, more than likely they will pop out and sit on the deck. I held the compressor down with the bottom of the piston in, and tapped it really fast with a rubber mallet and piece of wood, the pistons go right in. As you do each one, make sure the crank is down, so the studs wont hit and scratch it if you hit the piston too hard.

Get underneath, reconnect the rods making sure all the parts are back in their respective places, torque everything down to spec, and let your arm rest a minute. It's tiring under there lying on your back with your arms in the air. Put the oil pan back on with a new gasket (use RTV here) and screw it in, but don't put too much torque on those bolts and nuts, apparently they are very weak. Reattach the flywheel's plate. Now would also be a good time to get the header/DP in, but don't connect it. It's a real pain to put back in with the head on (trust me I know) unless you remove the radiator.

The head shouldn't take long, I dropped mine off in the afternoon and it was done before lunch the next day. When you pick it up you'll be amazed how nice it looks compared to the block you cleaned, don't worry, it will work fine. Make sure to get all the spring seats and whatever else the shop takes out of it, my shop even gave me the old stem seals.

If you want to lap the valves, do it now. I use a drill at very low speed, remember to keep unseating and reseating the valve. Make sure you get rid of all of the valve lapping compound, it's probably one of the worst things to have floating around the engine. You can get the shop to do the valves too if you don't want to do it yourself.

Now reinstall all the valves in the reverse order of installation. Use engine assembly grease or valve stem lube here. When you unscrew the compressor, make sure the keepers are seating right. They should, mine all went on a lot easier than I thought they would, but wear glasses just in case.

Put the head back together, the cam, rocker assembly, and distributor. Put the cam gear on too, and replace the oil seal there.

Turn your cam gear so that the two lines line up with the top of the head, and the UP mark is pointing up. Now some people recommend turning the crank so all the pistons are halfway up, but my #1 was already at TDC, which matched the cam gear alignment (incidentally, thats how my cam gear was when I removed it). Do one of these, if you aren't sure about the cam gear, put them halfway to be safe.

Wipe the block down one last time. Put the headgasket on, NO RTV, and lay the head right down on top of it. Bolt the head down according to the manual's torque sequence. This is a very important part! You dont want to snap any of these bolts or warp your head!

Put the valve cover on, but don't bolt it down or reconnect anything yet, you still need to do the valve lash. First, though, the new timing belt has to go in.


&lt;&lt;&lt;&lt;&lt; TIMING BELT, WATER PUMP &gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;

You might want to go do something else now, and start early in the morning on that crank pulley bolt. It took me about five hours to get it off.

So you've been spraying the bolt with PB blaster for a while. It's going to seem like that was useless. Put the car in 5th gear. Take the driver's side front wheel off and remove the splash guard behind it. Get something to wedge the pulley, or you could also lift the whole front of the car up, take off both wheels, and wedge the rotors with something. I tried this first, then ended up wedging the pulley because there was too much slack to take up before the pulley stopped moving. Whatever you do, wedge it tight. Now use a few extensions on your 1/2" drive socket wrench, with the 17mm socket on the end, and the biggest breaker bar you have. Heat the bolt up for a few minutes with a torch. Have somebody hold your extensions level and start pushing on that breaker bar, it's going to take a little while. If you have an air impact gun, you are missing out on a lot of fun here.

If you're reading this part... you got the bolt out. Good job for not giving in and taking it to a shop.

Now remove the pulley, being careful not to lose the woodruff key in there. You can now take off the timing belt cover and the belt itself. Here's the really fun part... if you didn't cut the belt, it's not coming off! That's because it goes between two arms on the motor mount. Support the engine on something, I put down some wood and SLOWLY lowered the engine onto it. Now you can take off that motor mount and remove the old belt. Put the new one in place and reattach the mount. I didn't want to leave that off any longer than necessary.

Now would be a good time to change the water pump. It's easy, remove the 5 mounting bolts, it shares 1 with the alternator, and pull it out. It's gonna be a gusher, so keep your new clean timing belt away from it. Clean up the mating surface and bolt the new one on.

Now put the timing belt on everything but the cam pulley. Reinstall the crank pulley and bolt. Remember to torque that thing down to spec for the next person to struggle with. When it's all back on, set the #1 piston to TDC using the mark or, as I did, with a long slender object down the plug hole. Now take the tension out of the timing belt and put it over the cam gear, and set timing as the manual says. Check it twice, no reason to take a chance.


&lt;&lt;&lt;&lt;&lt; HOSES, WIRES, BELTS, AND FASTENERS &gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;

Now it's time to put everything back together. Here is where I replaced my radiator and removed all the AC, but that doesn't really need too much explaination. Remember to use new belts for your alternator and your AC if you have it. Replace the radiator hoses too. Put everything back on with new gaskets, except the valve cover, you want to set your valve lash now before you fire up the engine. Now install the valve cover with the new seal. This is where I broke my first and only bolt, one of the crown nuts bottomed out and snapped the bolt.

Put in your new plugs and wire everything up, you did mark everything, didn't you?! There are two things that connect on the passenger side of the head, under the distributor, that are easy to miss. Other ones that are coming to mind: two plugs on the distributor, upper and lower radiator hoses (replace), ground wire on the valve cover, a lot of plugs on the intake manifold/fuel rail, O2 sensor, radiator fan plug (and AC if you have it), and you can go ahead and put the little clips that hold stuff like the clutch cable back in. Dont forget to screw the gas cap in too.

Fill up the engine with fresh oil and coolant. I used distilled water for coolant here because I flushed it right away.

Go take a shower, you're filthy. Now when you're all clean hop in the car and fire it up (don't want to get grime on the Recaros!) It might take a few seconds to get the fuel through the system, but it should start fairly easily. If not, check your timing again, and check the distributor. Make sure you put the battery back in. Check all the connections again. Make sure you took that wedge out of the crank pulley. Be PATIENT and check everything again.

When you do get it to run, first thing you should do is flush the cooling system. When you finish that, put the body back on and drive a couple of miles. Come home, and change the oil and filter. You won't believe how much crap is in there from the assembly grease.

Now that everything's back to normal, don't worry about a little smoke for the first few drives. Mine took about 20 miles to burn out, just keep an eye on your fluids and make sure you aren't losing any, there was a lot of coolant in my cat, it took near 100 miles to burn out all the way. If you are losing coolant you might not have seated the headgasket right. There are a lot of things that could have gone wrong, but you were careful and worked slowly, so everything should be ok.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

Almost forgot, there's a pic on there of how to modify the valve spring compressor, if you get the overhead valve type from Craftsman (recommended).

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ppfalcon &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">there was a write up by the someone on here that was from homemadeturbo.com, he built a d16a6, only using oem parts and ebay pistons which bumped compression..

this would be a great daily driver setup, and if you want a cam go with something from exospeed for sr909 or if you want to spend more go with one of cranes.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You mean that Abaz guy? https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1139538

 

That's a great wirteup downest, thanks!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr.speaker &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

You mean that Abaz guy? https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1139538


</TD></TR></TABLE>

Is there any way to see the pics. I see a bunch of red X's.
Thanks for the write-up.

 

i'v rebuilt my a6 also and there are somethings you should do and not skimp on. like valve job, new valves if needed, bore/hone if the block is kinda trashed. I tore the whole thing down and got it back together in about 1 days worth of time. If you have all the parts its easy but make sure you lable where things go.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by UltimX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i'v rebuilt my a6 also and there are somethings you should do and not skimp on. like valve job, new valves if needed, bore/hone if the block is kinda trashed. I tore the whole thing down and got it back together in about 1 days worth of time. If you have all the parts its easy but make sure you lable where things go.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Any pics?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by UltimX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i'v rebuilt my a6 also and there are somethings you should do and not skimp on. like valve job, new valves if needed, bore/hone if the block is kinda trashed. I tore the whole thing down and got it back together in about 1 days worth of time. If you have all the parts its easy but make sure you lable where things go.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Boring the block isn't necessary for a stock rebuild. Honing definitely is, if you are replacing the piston rings. My A6 was pretty abused, and the valves were fine with just being lapped. Of course, if you are rebuilding because you broke a timing belt or something, you're probably going to need the new valves. The service manual has procedures to make sure everything is within spec, check everything and replace as needed. You're right about the time, assuming the machine shop gets your head done quickly, it can take less than a day. If you haven't done this before though, leave a few days, and make sure you have all your parts beforehand.

 

the way i see it, if you can't see the cross hatch, your going to need to bore. Besides, even if you do see the cross hatch, the cylinders can be out of spec and or wobbily. I would suggest if you can't see the factory hone marks, then your goign to need a bore. Because of the rod stroke ratio of the a6, it puts stress on the cylinder walls which cause uneven cylinder wear. Most people who can see the cross hatch just do a hone to make the cylinder walls rough so the rings seal. But since you said you wanted some power, and over bore with a nice cam will get you some nice power.

 

I was wondering why you rebuilt your a6 downest. What did all the parts and tools (not like the wrenches but tools like the vavle spring holder)cost for you to do all the things you did? I'm just think that the price in parts would be more than the price of another a6. I'm going to be changing my HG soon and I don't know what I will do if I see my car is burning oil because of bad rings. I don't know if i would say it's cheaper to buy a new a6 block and head. or if I would just replace all the parts and look at my engine as being all brand new. Thanks for any help.

 

You should check out SMSP's econo build,https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1420377

Eric

 

I will not be able to do that because i plan on autocrossing the car and that is not allowed in the class that i want to saty in. What brand of HG is good? Mr Gasket headgasket and gasket kit, or this headgasket, and i could get the whole OEM headgasket up set,and if I need new piston rings i can get them too. Is 100 a good price for rings and 100 a good price for a gasket kit?
http://www.iconautoparts.com/c...gmech

Thanks

 

If you need to bore a small amount (factory spec is like .25mm, right?) does that mean you need to get larger pistons or can you just use the original ones?

 

George, I wrote it somewhere in the write up, I think total cost was about $450 for everything I got. Thats top-end seals, extra headgasket, rings, water pump, oil pan gasket, all new hoses and belts (including timing belt), new radiator, and various fluids. You don't need all that stuff if you are just doing the motor, I just like to do it all right. Get a Z6 or Y8 headgasket. The Y8 gasket will bump compression a little bit. Even if you find an A6 cheaper, it's not going to be new inside. Personally I would rather start fresh with a rebuilt A6 than buy another and not know its condition. Also if you're going to spend that money on a swap there are a lot of better engines out there to drop in.

 

 

What head studs did you use? Also is there some kind of studs or bolts the have to be replaced when doing the oil pan gasket?

 

I used OEM head bolts, but you could get an ARP kit, which would be recommended if you plan on turbo later on.

 

You dont need to replace anything except the oil-pan gasket but the chances are pretty high you will break a oil-pan stud when you are putting it all back on. For that reason, you should order a bunch of spare oil pan studs as spares. They're very cheap.