Battery Keeps Dying
when i first replaced my battery, it had been a while so i just replaced it to be safe. after 3 months of having the new battery it just went dead on me so i had warranty on it so i just got a new one. its been a month since ive had the new one and its dead again. alternator?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM_Ej »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Most likely alternator...</TD></TR></TABLE>
if thats not it, what else could it be?
if thats not it, what else could it be?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fanta! »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if thats not it, what else could it be?</TD></TR></TABLE>
it could be an electrical drain in the system.
First I would test the altenator with a multimeter and make sure it's putting out good voltage (14.4v i believe).
it could be an electrical drain in the system.
First I would test the altenator with a multimeter and make sure it's putting out good voltage (14.4v i believe).
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if you check it with a multi-meter it can be misleading as the ECU controls the charging system.
If you want I have a PDF that someone sent me for trouble shooting honda charging systems.
Stupid 5 wire ecu controlled charging system!
"By turning off the alternator the computer reduces the load on the engine and thus saves fuel and increases power output when needed. "
If you want I have a PDF that someone sent me for trouble shooting honda charging systems.
Stupid 5 wire ecu controlled charging system!
"By turning off the alternator the computer reduces the load on the engine and thus saves fuel and increases power output when needed. "
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JimmyAtlantis »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Try cleaning all of the connections. It worked for me once. Saved me the price of an alternator.</TD></TR></TABLE>
connections are clean
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pdiggitydogg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah, I clean them every time it dies and I recharge it
Im on my third battery since june
(strangely, I dont have the issue with the optima, but do with the duralasts)</TD></TR></TABLE>
damnit, its a duralast battery. did your duralast just always go out quick on you or what was the deal?
connections are clean
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pdiggitydogg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah, I clean them every time it dies and I recharge it
Im on my third battery since june
(strangely, I dont have the issue with the optima, but do with the duralasts)</TD></TR></TABLE>
damnit, its a duralast battery. did your duralast just always go out quick on you or what was the deal?
you probably have a parasidic draw. something in your car is drawing current when key is off that shouldnt be. way to test hook amp meter in series with neg. batt cable. if value is high. then you have a bad draw. if so leave meter hooked up and begin to pull fuses until value drops. that will let you know what circuit it is in.
ps. you must do this test while nothing in car is on no lights, cant open any doors.
ps. you must do this test while nothing in car is on no lights, cant open any doors.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by postman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you probably have a parasidic draw. something in your car is drawing current when key is off that shouldnt be. way to test hook amp meter in series with neg. batt cable. if value is high. then you have a bad draw. if so leave meter hooked up and begin to pull fuses until value drops. that will let you know what circuit it is in.
ps. you must do this test while nothing in car is on no lights, cant open any doors.</TD></TR></TABLE>
ill try this
ps. you must do this test while nothing in car is on no lights, cant open any doors.</TD></TR></TABLE>
ill try this
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