I was curious of the times w/ what mods they had with the b20 in a 2nd gen rex.

And also what hood would i need to fit the b20 in?

 

Are you referring to a B20/VTEC or just a straight B20 setup with the stoc, non-VTEC head? If you are reffing to the latter, I do have this setup. I recently upgraded the engine in my 1988 Civic STD HB from a B18B to a B20Z. And I can tell you that despite the relatively small displacement increase, there is a day and night difference between the two engines. Torque is way up. And even peak power is better despite the fact that the B20Z seems to quit pulling earlier (probably the cams). As for mods, I am running a basically stock B20Z with a B18B intake manifold, DC 4-2-1 header, custom high flow cat, Greddy SP exhaust, and AEM CAI (for the 1988-1991 Civic/CRX). With this setup, I have run 15.0 at 92.6MPH. Keep in mind that I could do MUCH better than this if I could actually get a good launch. I should also note that I have a 1988 B16A CRX SI with an AEM CAI (for a 1999-2000SI), Random Technology high flow cat, and Greddy MX exhaust that I have run about the same time in (also with traction issues). So I think it is safe to say that a B20Z with bolt-ons will run about the same kinds of ETs as a B16A. But it is MUCH quicker on the street due to the torque.

The bottom line: if you are thinking of doing a B20 swap, DO IT!!! If you are thinking of doing a B18A/B18B swap, FORGET IT!!! Do a B20 swap instead.

 

ctr cams, 2035lbs 192hp, 142ft lbs mild bolt ons
13.1@103

 

i don't think the b20 cuts off power early you really just don't know because you feel the torque and the torque cuts out earlier than the HP
and my friend has a b20 in his crx with nos hasn't ran it yet with the nos but he ran a 12.7 with the LS with nos (traction issues too)

 

hey what mount kit did you guys use??

 

HASport!!!!!!

 

Hasport on my B20Z HB, Place Racing on my B16A CRX. Overall, I perfer the Hasport kit for the superior ground clearance and room in front of the motor.

 

oooh we just finished a B20/vtec, with 12:1 pistons and eagle rods. Everything else is stock as far as headers, head and ECU. Stock body Si full interior on slicks.

Hit 12.7 & 12.8 first time out. with a few more mods, it should dip into the low 12's.

Wil http://www.exospeed.com

 

hey the b20 usdm will pass in a crx in cali correct b/c its a usdm? even though it's from a mini suv

 

I just dont know. I like the numbers the b20's are putting up. (and yes i'm talking about it with the vtec head) Well here are the plans and i would love to hear the suggestions.

Dumping a motor (considerations, b16. cr-vtec. possibly even a b18c)
leaving it stock except i/h/e and nos (small shot)
buying all the parts and start working on a "drag motor"

Since i'm going to end up resleeving it anyways then it really dont matter what motor i decide to go for, as far as the drag motor.

But while its a daily driver i want something pretty quick (high 13's-mid 14's) but also reliable. And i've heard every horror story in the book and this is my first vtec engine i'm "building" (had a ls before). So any insight would be greatly appriciated.

 

yeah b120b is so sweet with torque and all and modding is gonan be insane but i need to know if it's legal

 

no i'm going to be doing it for a strip car... not a driver.

How is the b16a1 with nos? does it handle it ok? how much of a shot do you guys think is safe with it stock?

 

anyone know the answer to this question b/c i live in cali too and am considering building a b20/vtec and i would like to be legal

 

California emissions legality requires that the engine be newer than the car it is going into and that all emissions related equipment that originally came with the motor be used. This means that even a basic B20Z setup is not really legal in California. But there are possibly ways to get around it. I, for instance, have a California BAR sticker for my old 1995 Integra motor. Since the B20 looks pretty much the same, it will pass emissions testing as long as the tech does not check the engine VIN number (which they often don't).

As for building a CR-VTEC, the same sort of trickery would be required. In this case, you would start out with a California legal DOHC VTEC motor like the B16A3 or B18C1. You would then get a BAR sticker and then do the bottom end swap. Remember, it is the engine appearance and emission configuration you want to keep the same. So to increase your chances of passing in California, get something that IS legal, looks the same as the final setup, and have IT BAR certified. NOT the final engine. So DON'T, for instance, do an LS swap and get it BAR certified and THEN do a VTEC head swap. Do a legal DOHC VTEC engine FIRST.

 

i think crvtec are the ****