I was busy today, woke up at sunbreak to finally put my build d16 in, did the flywheel and clutch install, was cake, attached the tranny and got ready to install. I was bymyself and got it in scraped hands and everything, axles , shift linkage done.

Didnt feel like working much on wiring and fuel and vacuum lines as I have tomorrow off aswell so I grabbed my manifold and 1/2 rad and wanted to check fitment and think ofideas for my downpipe/dumptube.

PROBLEMS
-manifold is to tall, hood touches with webbing cut (fiberglass predator hood)
-manifold is fairly long, wastegate kinda tucks down under rad support
-1/2 rad is tall, wouldnt close unless tilted forward, then it touches the long manifold
-fiberglass hood may melt...... Im wrapping the manifold and maybe making a heat shield for the hood will it cut it? Ideas?

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So yeah, Ive got a few problems, I need some help as to what to do, you cant really see my wastegate flange cause I painted it black cause I rewelded the flange vertical. I really just need to know if its possible to drop the engine somehow, dont know how but I think Ive heard of it before. Or how can I effectively prevent my manifold from warping/melting my hood

I thing I have going for me is that I painted the car with hightemp barbeque paint, **** wont bubble hahah!!!

I just want some opinions before I start doing anything drastic

 

i would sell that hood and use that money to get an "SiR" style hood.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Smokinsax &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i would sell that hood and use that money to get an "SiR" style hood. </TD></TR></TABLE>
took the words right out of my mouth
edit: heres a link cuz im feelin generous http://www.passwordjdm.com/pro...D=147

 

not an option

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CanadianMade &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">not an option</TD></TR></TABLE>

welll it should be. eliminate some rice and solve a few problems.

 

It wouldnt solve the problem, it raises the hood in the middle towards the back mostly.

Not worth it to me, and my car is flat black, dont wanna paint something like that flat black and I love the fiberglass weight, the look of the hood and ofcourse the heat ventilation in perfect places

 

plan out you project better next time

 

u can lower the engine with some washers were the driver side motor mount goes onto the engine but i think ur manifold is too big SIR hood looks like the only way to do it

 

is that one of them c-thru hoods

 

Get yourself a style manifold

 

Its the manifold. You need either a different manifold or a log style manifold.

For the radiator, you can either get it cut and put some new end tanks on, Tilt it back (AKA gangsta lean towards your firewall), or you can buy one that is already cut.

For the hood, I would get an SIR style hood or at least some metal hood. That turbo is gonna be hot hot hot. If you wrap it, your manifold will be prone to cracking in the long run.

Good luck! The project looks great!

-Jon

 

Radiator options: You can ghetto it and tilt it back, or you can buy the full-race radiators designed just for the crx with turbos. Its like th eg/ek half radiator but is not tall and will fit well into the crx. (or so I am told).

Manifold : Either get a different manifold that is not as tall or get a SIR style hood. Or run without a hood.

 

Fibreglass is inert.

You might destroy the paint tho.

 

inert?

Its actually high temp flat black barbeque paint so I dont think thats ***** gonna fry anytime soon

 

inert... non reactive, non flammable.

 

fiberglass doesnt melt with a good bit of heat? I intend to definetely wrap the manifold cause I already have the wrap, I dont know how much that actually cools it though, was wonderring if I have to fab something (maybe a piece of sheet metal on back of hood? I dunno) to keep that **** down

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CanadianMade &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It wouldnt solve the problem, it raises the hood in the middle towards the back mostly.

Not worth it to me, and my car is flat black, dont wanna paint something like that flat black and I love the fiberglass weight, the look of the hood and ofcourse the heat ventilation in perfect places</TD></TR></TABLE>

get a metal JDM hood. You won't have to be so sad about painting it flat black. They make more room than you think also. The JDM hoods are longer too, so it extends the raised part further foward. If you are so concerned about the weight the JDM headlights are probally lighter than those hideous projectors you have there. with rice with nice!

 

ive seen it where he had a b16 with equal length turbo gheaders and a 1/2 rad, and he tilted the rad back to almost next to the headers, mayeb that might work?

 

Use washers and lower the motor.
Tilt or angle the radiator

 

Autoworks is right for the hood take the latch off and put some washers on in between the hood and latch.

as for the radiator look where you old radiator supports are and cut out a section the length of the radiator the go get some aluminum and bend to support on the bottom section of radiator..

I am running eg radiator with 3 inch downpipe and no problems

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CanadianMade &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">fiberglass doesnt melt with a good bit of heat? </TD></TR></TABLE>

The basis of textile grade glass fibers is silica, SiO2. In its pure form it exists as a polymer, (SiO2)n. It has no true melting point but softens up to 2000°C, where it starts to degrade. At 1713°C, most of the molecules can move about freely. If the glass is then cooled quickly, they will be unable to form an ordered structure (Gupta, 544). In the polymer it forms SiO4 4- groups which are arranged as a tetrahedron with the silicon atom at the center and four oxygen atoms at the corners. These atoms then form a network bonded at the corners by sharing the oxygen atoms.

The first type of glass used was soda-lime glass or A glass. It was not very resistant to alkali. A new type, E-glass was formed that is alkali free (&lt; 2%) and an alumino-borosilicate glass (Volf, 338). This was the first glass produced for continuous filament formation. E-glass still makes up most of the fiberglass production in the world. Its particular components may differ slightly in percentage, but must fall within a specific range. The letter E is used because it was originally for electrical applications. S-glass is a high strength formulation when tensile strength is the most important property

Since E-glass does not really melt but soften, the softening point is defined as, “the temperature at which a 0.55 – 0.77 mm diameter fiber 9.25 inches long, elongates under its own weight at 1 mm/min when suspended vertically and heated at the rate of 5°C per minute” (Lubin, 152). The strain point is where the glass has a viscosity of 10 14.5 poise. The annealing point, which is the temperature where the internal stresses are reduced to an acceptable commercial limit in 15 minutes. The viscosity at this point should be 10 13 poise (Lubin, 152).

So there.

 

the design of this manifold is really bad
this is the main problem

this is not an equal lenght

 

its not the fiberglass thats the problem its the epoxy used to bond the layers, it melts at a much lower temp, usually at a couple hunded degrees, with a high temp heat gun you can usually bend/melt bodykit fiberglass, and im assuming thats what the hood is made of

 

Put some washers between the front rear subframe and the rear engine mount, that will tilt the back of the motor up and the front with your manifold downwards

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Crx Jimmy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its not the fiberglass thats the problem its the epoxy used to bond the layers, it melts at a much lower temp, usually at a couple hunded degrees, with a high temp heat gun you can usually bend/melt bodykit fiberglass, and im assuming thats what the hood is made of</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thats what I was thinking