im planning on doing a whole new car audio install within the next couple of months. please give me any input etc that u all feel necessary, thanks. this is going in a 95 3 door hatchback integra..

JL xr653-cs 3-way seperates for doors.
JL xr650-csi 2-way seperates for kick panels.
JL 12w6v2d4 in trunk.
2- 10 inch earthquake sws10 shallow mount subs under driver and pass. seats.
JL 500/1 Slash Amp powering 12w6v2d4
JL 450/4 Slash Amp powering both sets of JL speakers.
(3-way gets the 150w channels, 2-way gets 75w channels)
JL 300/2 Slash Amp powering both sws10 subwoofers.
3 farad Stinger shd3m power capacitor.
All JL power, ground, remote, speaker, and audio connects, as well as JL distribution blocks.
Dynamat throughout the whole interior of car (floor, doors, trunk, license plates)

i am making a sealed box for the driver in the trunk, as well as sealed boxes for the shallow mount subs for under seats.

i am still trying to figure out where to place the 4 inch midbass speakers for my doors.. any ideas?

as well as figuring out placement for the amplifiers in the trunk.. any ideas?

thanks alot guys

 

IMO you have too many speakers up front, it will be very difficult if not impossible to image the system properly, not to mention what happens when you have more then one speaker, [on the same side] mounted at differant distances and angles producing the frequencies

Even if you go ahead and install all the speakers, the JL 450/4 would be the wrong amp, 150W is more then twice the power, the JL XR653-CS are rated for, [70W] the JL 300/4 would be a better amp, [75W rms x 4].

May I suggest, you install the 3ways in the front, woofer in door and mid and tweeter in kick panel pod, install a set of 6.5"-7" mid bass drivers in the stock rear locations, run them mono off 2 bridged ch. of the JL 300/4, or if you can find a set of 150W 8 ohm mid bass drivers use the bridged ch. 1&2 of the JL 450/4.
Drop the 10" Earthquakes and JL 300/2, and maybe go for 2 JL 12W6v2-D4 and the JL 1000/1 or two JL 500/1.

I am sure the SPL output will be the same and SQ would be much improved, it may cost about the same or maybe a little less, it would definitely be an easier and cleaner install, and if done right amps could be mounted to back seat so they and sub box, [again if done right] could be flipped forward, out of the way, [for access to spare and use of all the hatch when needed. 94

 

I use a 500/1 and 300/4 in my car and it is a brilliant match. The 12w6 is going to be a bear too. The w6's are no joke, so make sure your car is well deadened. Dynamat is your friend.

Too many speakers can be a bad thing. Great choices though. Cut down on the number of speakers, and invest in a really good EQ and have it professionally balanced. Theres nothing quite like a flat response curve.

 

fcm and numist, thank u for ur advice. the only reason i plan on running these speakers all up front is because i dont not like having speakers in the rears.

i dont plan on running each set of speakers to their maximum potential because i do not want to chance the speakers blowing.

the reasons for all my choices for amplifiers, speakers, subwoofers, etc. are because i spoke with a car audio installer at my local denville audio supplier, where i get everything cost + 10% and he said that this would be the best setup for my listening taste. i am not a big basshead, i chose the 12w6 primarily for its reputation of being a crisp subwoofer while maintaining great reliablity and power.

i chose to put the sws10's under the seats for just a little more mid bass up front to balance out the wattage that the two sets of speakers will potentially put out.

my point being, thank u for ur advice and it will be taken into consideration when i start the install. and i am getting deals on all my purchases which is pretty much my basis for choice.

if anything ive just said calls for more input by you guys.. or anyone. please go ahead.

im trying to make a very clean sounding, powerful stereo because this has just recently become my new passion as ive finally realized that trying to make my car faster is a waste of money because its just gonna get me in trouble. ahah.

thanks again guys

 

You will not hear a set of mid bass in the rear, [if the system is set up properly] and as I said that can be impossible with too many speakers.

I am a firm believer in having "more then enough power", but more then twice as much is a waste.


Although the equipment is a good choice, I am surprised an installer would make a recommendation like that, more is not always better, and in the case of car audio it can be very detrimental to SQ.

Low frequency response is not very "directional" so having them installed in the stock rear locations should not make any diff., [again if system is set up properly] so easy to do now a days with HUs with digital x-overs, digital time delay and digital parametric EQs built in.

I don't believe what I have suggested will be any less "powerful" if anything more so, [cancellation from too many speakers will not be an issue]

Go to http://mobile.jlaudio.com/supp...d=126 check it out, even call and talk to them http://mobile.jlaudio.com/supp...d=128 94

 

thanks again fcm, ill check out the websites and see what it has to say.

the installer was from a place called sound city in denville. and i said he did propose this setup for me. ill take a look and hopefully come up with a decision to have the best sound possible.
thanks for your experienced input, it is a great help. anyone else.. keep it comin.

 

bump anyone?

advice.. diff setups.. diff brands of speakers, subs, amps, etc?
let me kno guys..

 

What exactly are your listening tastes and expectations for the system?

JL does lots of things well, but there are a rediculous number of options in the same price range (amps, subs, components, and wiring).

 

first off, dont run that many speakers upfront... like stated before thats going to be imaging hell. save that money and get a set of good drivers (the xr's arn't very good imo) if you must get jl get the ZR's, but i'd look into some dls, rainbow, focal, ology etc. tell us how much you wanna spend and what you want and we can give you some advice.

its never a good idea to mix subs, one or the other

bat caps are usualy worthless, put more strain on the alt etc. if you have diming get a new alt, try a better batt first though.

and remember now matter how much you spend on equipment, if you dont have a great install its all going to sound like ***

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by t0p_sh0tta &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What exactly are your listening tastes and expectations for the system?

JL does lots of things well, but there are a rediculous number of options in the same price range (amps, subs, components, and wiring).</TD></TR></TABLE>

well i like to hear more highs than i do bass.
but i do like just enough bass where its clear and doesnt distort the music.
i listen to a few genres of music, but mainly emo/punk/rock
things like motion city soundtrack, the starting line, fallout boy
as well as aerosmith, tesla, guns n roses, etc.
with a mix of rap here and there.

i just want clean sounding music in my car, being powerful at the same time.

i dont care how much equip is cause as i stated, i get everything ten up.
thanks again

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Eugenics &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">first off, dont run that many speakers upfront... like stated before thats going to be imaging hell. save that money and get a set of good drivers (the xr's arn't very good imo) if you must get jl get the ZR's, but i'd look into some dls, rainbow, focal, ology etc. tell us how much you wanna spend and what you want and we can give you some advice.

its never a good idea to mix subs, one or the other

bat caps are usualy worthless, put more strain on the alt etc. if you have diming get a new alt, try a better batt first though.

and remember now matter how much you spend on equipment, if you dont have a great install its all going to sound like ***</TD></TR></TABLE>

ive heard everyone say dont run that many speakers up front..
why is it so hard to image with this amount of speakers??
i am currently running a set of mb quart discus 6.5 component in doors
and mb quart discus 5.25 components in kick panels..
all speakers are amped and i have a 12 inch type r in the trunk...

also, why not mix subs??
they will be run off seperate amplifiers, getting diff amounts of power..

and wat makes xr series jl speakers bad? what is their rep??

these are all just questions im interested in, im not trying to be a dick, i just want to kno so i dont make this mistake before installing and purchasing.. thanks again

 

i'd go with an idmax for a sub, from what i hear it has just as good sq as the jl and can get alot louder

but we're going to need a relistic budget, because if you really do not care then theres a nice 10-15k set of rainbow components you could get

 

well, yes, 10-15k is a lil out of my budget haha.
i didnt kno they make speakers that expensive. wow.

but um yeah. i dono im really set on my setup now to tell u the truth.
i like having seperates in both kicks and doors because i like my setup now.

i truthfully just figured upgrading to larger kick speaks and 3 way seperates in the doors, as well as a better sub driver and the shallow moounts under seats for more "mid bass" would result in something a lil more quality, clarity, and power than what my stereo consists of now..

 

having different subs is going to work against you, and there are MUCH better component speakers out there

 

If you're looking for midbass stick to a nice sized driver designed with midbass duties in mind. There are MANY 7" drivers in this range. If you're lazy like I am, and want somebody else to do the work for you, start checking out quality 3-way component sets.

 

you could get some iridium 8.2's or iridium 8.3's i personally like the sound of two ways better but whatever. iridiums have hella midbass, can't imagine what the 8 inch ones are like

 

I guess nobody noticed that the reason you where getting JL Audio was because you where getting it at cost plus 10% at an authorized dealer, [so full warranty]

Nobody reads anymore 94

 

We're all literate. Even at cost some of the JL stuff is still expensive.

 

theres a common misconception, and that is that more speakers is going to be louder. in reality, it adds a very slight increase in db, but (especially in a car environment, where keeping things on axis and equally distant becomes quite often impossible, especially in your situation where you want to have a 3way set in the doors and a 2 way in kicks..) most often that increase is negated by cancelations caused by the drivers being out of phase from eachother (not wired out of phase, physically out of phase) and you wind up with a much worse frequency response than a single driver, and at the same volume as a single driver.

i'd highly reccomend ditching the 2-way set, and simply using the 3-ways. If they dont provide enough volume. invest in a higher quality set of speakers.

in other words, in no situation is adding MORE speakers going to be your solution.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I guess nobody noticed that the reason you where getting JL Audio was because you where getting it at cost plus 10% at an authorized dealer, [so full warranty]

Nobody reads anymore 94</TD></TR></TABLE>

haha, thank u. yes im planning on sticking with complete JL Audio install here.

unless there are other brands where it would be worth my while to spend a little more cash.

but i like what JL has to offer as far as speaker sets, subs and amps.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rlockwood &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">theres a common misconception, and that is that more speakers is going to be louder. in reality, it adds a very slight increase in db, but (especially in a car environment, where keeping things on axis and equally distant becomes quite often impossible, especially in your situation where you want to have a 3way set in the doors and a 2 way in kicks..) most often that increase is negated by cancelations caused by the drivers being out of phase from eachother (not wired out of phase, physically out of phase) and you wind up with a much worse frequency response than a single driver, and at the same volume as a single driver.

i'd highly reccomend ditching the 2-way set, and simply using the 3-ways. If they dont provide enough volume. invest in a higher quality set of speakers.

in other words, in no situation is adding MORE speakers going to be your solution.</TD></TR></TABLE>

very well explained. thanks.
i am still wondering though, my setup now consisting of two sets of components in both doors and kicks seems to sound fine? why could this be.

can i get better explanations on vocab such as imaging, spl, sq, etc.
i am here to learn how to do these things, and what it all means.
thanks again guys, ur all a big help

 

get the zr's then they're a hell of alot better sounding then the XR's

 

i was told by my installer, that.. for the money.. the zr is not comparable to the xr because of the difference in price.

its like the premiums vs the q-line.. basic same features and performance.. at nearly half the price.

but. i will look into the zr series more fully to make a final decision on what components i end up purchasing. so thank you for ur advice.

 

i thought they sounded alot better myself, the next step up is never as cost effective. same with the xr's compared to the tr's and such and same with the zr's compared to the xr's

 

ever tried listening to it with only one of the sets powered?

ears do tend to be notoriously good at picking out what sounds good, rather than what sounds accurate..

sometimes it takes awhile to get used to hearing how a recording was meant to sound, rather than how you're used to it sounding, just a thought..

not to come off as arrogant or anything, but an honest question - have you ever spent time listening to a well tuned (read: close to reference) audio system (be it home, or car?)

as for some of the vocab, image is typically used to describe how a sound system "stages." one goal of a reference audio system is to be sure that all of the sound comes from where it should. if it doesnt, it can really throw the experience off. Its VERY difficult to control a simple two way set, let alone a two way + a 3 way set, without the image smearing to one side or the other, or simply losing all definition.

spl = sound pressure level, measured in dB.. simply a measurement of how loud something is

sq = sound quality, pretty self explained.

it sounds like you're getting a good deal on jl product.. if nothing else, you should be able to get your money back out of it should you decide to change. but there is better product out there.