Screw on rotor wheel in Distributor...
Im trying to do a ignition coil test with a multimeter I bought.I have a HELMS, I took of the dist. cap.Then it shows a pic of the rotor wheel with a screw coming from behind and underneath the wheel.I can not get that screw loose.Is there a trick to this or anything.Im using the correct phillips screw head and everything but all it wants to do is strip the head.
Anything safe to spray on the screw to help loosen it? WD40?
Also the tip of the rotor is burnt a little bit.Would that be a bad coil or ignition switch or ignitor?
Anything safe to spray on the screw to help loosen it? WD40?
Also the tip of the rotor is burnt a little bit.Would that be a bad coil or ignition switch or ignitor?
that screw is a bitch. i got one off using a impactdriver. you have to be careful not to hit it too hard.
Also the tip of the rotor is burnt a little bit.Would that be a bad coil or ignition switch or ignitor?
i dont think so, you could just replace it. im doing mine soon. does your car not start? if so does it have spark? if it has no spark check the ignitor. if there is spark replace the coil. if you ran the car with old spark plugs, over time the gap will get too big and weaken the coil. then you have a no start one day.
Also the tip of the rotor is burnt a little bit.Would that be a bad coil or ignition switch or ignitor?
i dont think so, you could just replace it. im doing mine soon. does your car not start? if so does it have spark? if it has no spark check the ignitor. if there is spark replace the coil. if you ran the car with old spark plugs, over time the gap will get too big and weaken the coil. then you have a no start one day.
I stripped the head a little bit.Know any tricks to get it out there.
Yeah my car wont start.I thought it might be the fuel pump, but I hear it prime and I hear the fuel rail and the realy click.
I took a spark plug out and put it in the plug wire, touched the tip to the vlave cover and cranked the motor and saw no spark.So Im assumed its either the coil or igniter.
Im thinking about just replacing the whole distributor.
How is Distributor King on Ebay?
Thanks
Yeah my car wont start.I thought it might be the fuel pump, but I hear it prime and I hear the fuel rail and the realy click.
I took a spark plug out and put it in the plug wire, touched the tip to the vlave cover and cranked the motor and saw no spark.So Im assumed its either the coil or igniter.
Im thinking about just replacing the whole distributor.
How is Distributor King on Ebay?
Thanks
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by P@@RB@Y »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I stripped the head a little bit.Know any tricks to get it out there Thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>
just the impact driver.
just the impact driver.
if it is the coil, turn your setup into a external distributor with the msd kit. if it is the ignitor, or icm they call it, then replace it...only 45 at the dealer.
oh and to get the screw off, turn the engine so the screw is facing up...take a pair of cutters with a rag wrapped around it and break off the rotor face...then use vise grips to take the screw out. i've had to do this on customers cars that were neglected.
oh and to get the screw off, turn the engine so the screw is facing up...take a pair of cutters with a rag wrapped around it and break off the rotor face...then use vise grips to take the screw out. i've had to do this on customers cars that were neglected.
Will the rotor spin even if the coil or something is out?
If I cut the face of the rotor off, it has to be replaced right?I heard some people loosing power on the external.What benifit does it have?
Thanks alot
If I cut the face of the rotor off, it has to be replaced right?I heard some people loosing power on the external.What benifit does it have?
Thanks alot
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well, since i recommended changing to an external setup...you would get a new dist cap in the kit, so you should replace your rotor anyways. i don't think i lost any power by going to external. actually, i think i gained some in certain spots. response feels better to me. the benefit of going external is one less thing in that cramped little dist... if i have a coil go bad now (not that it should anytime soon, i've had mine for 60k), i can replace it in 5 minutes. if you have an internal unit...well, you are doing that now. the whole kit costs like 80 bux, your OE coil is pretty expensive.
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on the one i replaced (that came with the car) or the new one i put on (neihoff)
