RSXS Road racers - Brake question
What type of brake pads do you use? And do you have any problems with heat by the end of sessions? Anyone find it nessisary to duct the front brakes?
Also, I'm having trouble finding just slotted Brembo discs, which I have had good experiances with. Does anyone know where to find them? Or has anyone had a bad experiance with Brembo drilled/slotted?
TIA
Also, I'm having trouble finding just slotted Brembo discs, which I have had good experiances with. Does anyone know where to find them? Or has anyone had a bad experiance with Brembo drilled/slotted?
TIA
i am also wondering about brakes....except fluid...
along with the aforementioned question do you guys recommend...ATE Superblue or Motul RBF600
when i do pads im going to use Axxis Ultimates...(with Rotora rotors and stoptech lines)...
if i were you i would save the money and get Rotoras or powerslot instead of brembo...
along with the aforementioned question do you guys recommend...ATE Superblue or Motul RBF600
when i do pads im going to use Axxis Ultimates...(with Rotora rotors and stoptech lines)...
if i were you i would save the money and get Rotoras or powerslot instead of brembo...
You can normally get brembo's on the cheap if you don't mind waiting around a bit.
I usually use ATE Superblue/Gold. Ultimates will be my default if no one else convices me otherwise.
I usually use ATE Superblue/Gold. Ultimates will be my default if no one else convices me otherwise.
Are you talking about doing an HPDE? How many events have you run? Ultimates are great street pads but I would probably go with some stronger personally.
As far as rotors, I would just go with something cheap like Autozone and have a dedicated set of rotors for just the track. Why go with Autozone over the more expensive? B/c over time the others will warp just the same and the Autozone ones are far cheaper. Check out the racing forum and see how many people run them.
Superblue is a great fluid.
Check out http://www.cobaltfriction.com. They are very good about matching the right pad with the right application. Give them a call and tell them what you want to do and they will recommend you a pad. I've always had great experience with them as have others.
As far as the ducting. Ducting can never hurt but I would say it would depend on how experienced of a driver you are as to whether you actually need it or not.
As far as rotors, I would just go with something cheap like Autozone and have a dedicated set of rotors for just the track. Why go with Autozone over the more expensive? B/c over time the others will warp just the same and the Autozone ones are far cheaper. Check out the racing forum and see how many people run them.
Superblue is a great fluid.
Check out http://www.cobaltfriction.com. They are very good about matching the right pad with the right application. Give them a call and tell them what you want to do and they will recommend you a pad. I've always had great experience with them as have others.
As far as the ducting. Ducting can never hurt but I would say it would depend on how experienced of a driver you are as to whether you actually need it or not.
I had a set of Ultimates crumble on me at the track once. The first set I had was fine, the second set sucked. I don't know what that says about them, I could have had bad luck, but both sets were street broken in beforehand.
Brake rotors..... just go go autozone and get blank face rotors. I don't know what the point is on spending **** tons of money on rotors you're going to rip apart.
I have the overheat problem too... with 73 less horsepower. I wound up putting 11" DC2R rotors and calipers on the front... yet to test it on the track but I suspect it will help quite a bit.
Brake rotors..... just go go autozone and get blank face rotors. I don't know what the point is on spending **** tons of money on rotors you're going to rip apart.
I have the overheat problem too... with 73 less horsepower. I wound up putting 11" DC2R rotors and calipers on the front... yet to test it on the track but I suspect it will help quite a bit.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boilermaker1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I had a set of Ultimates crumble on me at the track once. The first set I had was fine, the second set sucked. I don't know what that says about them, I could have had bad luck, but both sets were street broken in beforehand.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
My guess isn't that the pad didn't change but just that you became a better driving the second time around and wore the pads out more. Later and harder braking probably ate them up.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
My guess isn't that the pad didn't change but just that you became a better driving the second time around and wore the pads out more. Later and harder braking probably ate them up.
I figured I would get more time before warping out of the Brembo slots, but you make a good point. The car is leased so I'm not going to be insane on the brakes. Starting to think the Ultimates will suit me just fine because of that. Guess I'm sorta answering my own questions as I go.
I've only run two events before, but never in the RSX. Once in a S2k running ultimates (lot of brake fade) and once in an Integra running ultimates (not much fade at all).
I plan on running a dedicated track setup. One question though, if I burn through 1/8th the pads and then they sit on a shelf for 4 months, will they still be okay?
I've only run two events before, but never in the RSX. Once in a S2k running ultimates (lot of brake fade) and once in an Integra running ultimates (not much fade at all).
I plan on running a dedicated track setup. One question though, if I burn through 1/8th the pads and then they sit on a shelf for 4 months, will they still be okay?
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The others have a very good point. There is no need for slotted of drilled rotors from such companies as brembo and so forth.
If you are still in hpde1-3 stock rotors or autozone/checkers/pep boys rotors will do you just fine and save you lots of money on the end.
Do as the others are saying and get a dedicated set of rotors for track along with a dedicated set of brake pads for track use only.
I'm currently in hpde 3 and am still running stock rotors.
I have ebc reds on my car at the moment and they are"decent". I'll be placing those out for cobalt friction VR's which is a more aggressive brake pad.
I'll also be running R compounds so that will greatly help.
For brakes look into cobalt friction.
Rotors stay stock.
If you are still in hpde1-3 stock rotors or autozone/checkers/pep boys rotors will do you just fine and save you lots of money on the end.
Do as the others are saying and get a dedicated set of rotors for track along with a dedicated set of brake pads for track use only.
I'm currently in hpde 3 and am still running stock rotors.
I have ebc reds on my car at the moment and they are"decent". I'll be placing those out for cobalt friction VR's which is a more aggressive brake pad.
I'll also be running R compounds so that will greatly help.
For brakes look into cobalt friction.
Rotors stay stock.
Firstly if you're HPDEing or actually racing just get OE's from autozone, or if you have the cash get Brembo blanks which work better and last longer. Anything slotted, drilled or in combination isn't going to cut it on track.
I'm personally using Hawk pads now on my EM2 civic, I've used EBC, Carbomet, and cobalt friction. I've also got the Si rear discs but I'm just using el cheapo pads in the back.
I added brake ducts and modified the rotor backing plates for the ducts and haven't had any significant fade problems with Motul 600 fluid. Alot of brake issues come down to technique too so give that some thought.
I'm personally using Hawk pads now on my EM2 civic, I've used EBC, Carbomet, and cobalt friction. I've also got the Si rear discs but I'm just using el cheapo pads in the back.
I added brake ducts and modified the rotor backing plates for the ducts and haven't had any significant fade problems with Motul 600 fluid. Alot of brake issues come down to technique too so give that some thought.
I've run Cobalt GT's when I had TYPE-S calipers on my EP3. On track with ATE fluid, they rocked! I had a set of VR's to try out but I felt they weren't needed.
For HPDE, go with the GT's F/R with OE Brembo blanks. You don't need slotted or drilled rotors. If you're in HC, then go with VR' in front GT's in rear.
PM me if you need more help, I'm a Cobalt Friction dealer.
-Victor
For HPDE, go with the GT's F/R with OE Brembo blanks. You don't need slotted or drilled rotors. If you're in HC, then go with VR' in front GT's in rear.
PM me if you need more help, I'm a Cobalt Friction dealer.
-Victor
Thanks for all the input. I will probably be getting cobalt for my Civic, but just axxis ultimates/autozone rotors for the RSX for now.
Also still wondering about this. If I burn through 1/8th the pads and then they sit on a shelf for 4 months, will they still be okay?
Also still wondering about this. If I burn through 1/8th the pads and then they sit on a shelf for 4 months, will they still be okay?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 96 SOHC VTEC »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
My guess isn't that the pad didn't change but just that you became a better driving the second time around and wore the pads out more. Later and harder braking probably ate them up.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
harder braking does not always equate to better driving....
and harder braking does not always quate to faster wear....
but sure. ultimates are not exactly track pads.
My guess isn't that the pad didn't change but just that you became a better driving the second time around and wore the pads out more. Later and harder braking probably ate them up.
</TD></TR></TABLE>harder braking does not always equate to better driving....
and harder braking does not always quate to faster wear....
but sure. ultimates are not exactly track pads.
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GQ Cowboy
Road Racing / Autocross & Time Attack
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Jun 19, 2002 04:20 AM





