I have the chain thing that lets me hold the pulley so it doesn't spin. Then I used a big *** breaker bar, 19 mm socket. Turned it counter clockwise and that SOB wont come out! I stripped up parts of the small Pulley. Pisses me off!!

I can't get my car running until I get that thing off to put in new timing belt, and do other stuff. Any "TRICKS" on how to remove it?

 

snap on makes aexpensive kit to take it off. or just hold it like a man

 

help.... that one damn nut pisses me off. Its just too powerful!!!

 

shoot it with an air gun. wd-40 maybe?

 

the longer the wrench the easier it is.....so get some hollow metal pipe, i have used the handle for my jack, and just slide it over the wrench than u have a 3 foot wrench it should work.................if it dosent well your screwed

 

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...%27MOR61805%27


Do a search. . . .there were many topics on this

 

I, too, was unable to remove that sucker since I was unable to lock the motor. 5th gear and full brakes didn't work. The clutch just slipped.

I tried everything I could think of. I didn't want to buy a tool that I would not use again for at least 60,000 miles, that can't be used for anything else.

I used an old "rope trick."

I removed the spark plug from #1, and then put the piston just before TDC on the compression stroke (all valves closed, with the intake valve just getting finished closing) I then fed in quite a bit of soft CLEAN nylon rope into the cylinder until there was enough to prevent the egine from turning past tdc.

It is CRITICAL that this be done on the compression stroke so that all the valves are CLOSED, lest ye bend the valves. Then, I put a 3 foot cheater bar on my ratchet and cranked away. It took some real muscle.. I estimate over 400 ft/lbs to remove that sucker.

USE THIS METHOD at your OWN RISK. I've never heard of engine damage if this is used properly, but make damn sure you've got the valves closed!

Make sure you get a thick enough rope that the piston can't cut it where it goes through the sparkplug hole. It was a real pain getting the rope in there, but I spent like $5 on rope that I can junk or use for something else instead of $70 for a special use tool.


Of course, you can always buy the tool and do it the "right" way.

Chad

 

Haha, I had to have mine towed by my wife's AAA and then paid like $50 for a local auto shop to just take the bolt off. Then, towed it home and finished up. What a PAIN!!!

 

I had the same issue, but a sokin inWD-40 and then impact gun worked if off after like five minutes of on and off usage of the impact gun. It really sucks to get off

 

I have an electric impact and I owrked the bolt for 10 minutes with no effect. I need to get air tools BAD.

Chad

 

http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/product2432.html

The Ingersoll-Rand 2131, 1/2" Ultra Duty was suggested by a board member here when I was attempting my T-Belt job. I had also used the Moroso tool to hold the pulley.

Taking this advice, I didn't have to come back to the board to ask for suggestions on how to get the bolt off.

Note: This was on the EN.DYN. board and the member was fixhondas (who I'm pretty sure is the same one here).


[Modified by EE_Chris, 6:10 PM 3/14/2002]

 

Impact gun.... lots of PSI (>100psi) \
crank down the spring screw to get more psi on your air compressor

short quick blasts on your gun...
it will come off

or you can spend 60 bux for the moroso tool.. and grunt and pull and scrape your knuckles

You will love having air tools.. especially the air gun and rachet..
best investment ever.... make sure to buy impact sockets.
Spend the money.. you will use them again and again.. and so will your friends


[Modified by Crazydave, 10:14 AM 3/14/2002]

 

heres how I got my ZCs off yesterday after trying an air gun for 10 min (note-300$ very heavy gun, with a very large shop compressor). Get one of your engine to tranny bolts. screw it into one of the holes that go into the block. Get a pry bar with a slighty bent tip, and brace the flywheel. You will need someone strong to hold it. Now, get a LONG breaker bar. In my auto shop we have a 4 ft long piece of 5/8" dia bar. Next, pry as hard as you can.
After you break it, bring the pulley back to TDC. Then pull it off. We used a 1/2 in drive bar, not rachet with the 4 ft bar over it. Its a pain, but it can be done.
HTH

 

The proper crankshaft pulley tool make the removal a lot easier, well worth the $60.00+ dollars you'll spend. That is, unless you don't put a value on the time and the things that you break trying to improvise. Several Co. market these wrenches, Summit Racing, Snap-on, Hensley Engine and Machine and others.

 

aights aights.. this is by far the easiest and the cheapest... go to a hardware store.. go ask around for a chain vise-grip.. i don;'t know what it's called exactly but it's like a vise with like a 2ft chain at the end of it.. buy that.. they are like 15 bucks... go to the pulley.. learn how to use the chain.. wrap it around the pulley, tighten and gip hard.. when you loosen the crank it will hit against the radius rod and put pressure against that.. now jump on that friggin breaker bar and snap.. the bolt is free.. it should take about 5-10 minutes... late...

 

Bust out the Ol' Spin-ichck Popeye style!!!

 

i did that recently in a D series and the trick i used was to remove the flywheel inspection cover on the other side of the engine. once removed i could jam a medium to large screwdriver in there to hold the flywheel and keep the enging from spinning (i had a friend do that to keep the screwdriver from falling out). so then putting a big-*** breaker bar on the crankshaft nut did the trick with a little talking to not sure if that would work on a B motor though. might?

 

Be a MAN.....I pull them all the time by myself........with 2 1.5ft breaker bars. Also using an impact is not good on it.

 

I finally got it off. I just tied the flywheel to the block with a steel wire with plastic cover to keep the flywheel from spinning. then used a 1 foot ratchet and like lots of force. This is with the block off of the car , hehe.

 

ok if you can't fit it back there, then try taking a crow bar to it, that did the trick when I had to install my headers. Good luck...