Just installed the ES lower motor mount inserts,
This was the by far most difficult and aggravating parts I have installed.
This install made wiring up a stereo look like cake.

Anyhow I ended up Cutting the driver front Inner insert and working it in because I couldnt get the OE mount off the pin bolt

The rear ones were teh hardest

I damaged the wiring harness that connects to the VSS and the O2 sensor, It got smashed real bad about 4 times and Wore through the outer insulation. I cant really tell if the wires inside are damaged but the car runs and I havent had a CEL yet so Im keeping my fingers crossed.

What kind of silicone or sealant should I goop on the exposed area to keep the moisture out>

thanks

Oh yeah I can do 1st through 2nd gear burnouts without the horrid wheel hop

Cabin noise Is much louder, and the whole car seems a lot different.
Kind of worried now because its my daily driver and I commute 17 miles to work, but Eh a lil vibration never hurt anybody, Plus its mostly louder at low RPM

ah and when you lug the engine now the whole car just Convulses.

Overall difficulty I would give it a 8 out of 10 with installing your own lowering springs being like a 6.5

There is no room to work near the firewall

 

so you smashed the harness putting in the mounts? what tools did you use for the entire process? i've done about 3 sets of mounts and havnt had a single problem.

still not understanding the point of this thread

 

not really a point, Just trying to see what other people did, How you installed them and maybe some advice on protecting the exposed wires.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dc4g &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just installed the ES lower motor mount inserts,
This was the by far most difficult and aggravating parts I have installed.
This install made wiring up a stereo look like cake.

Anyhow I ended up Cutting the driver front Inner insert and working it in because I couldnt get the OE mount off the pin bolt

The rear ones were teh hardest

I damaged the wiring harness that connects to the VSS and the O2 sensor, It got smashed real bad about 4 times and Wore through the outer insulation. I cant really tell if the wires inside are damaged but the car runs and I havent had a CEL yet so Im keeping my fingers crossed.

What kind of silicone or sealant should I goop on the exposed area to keep the moisture out&gt;

thanks

Oh yeah I can do 1st through 2nd gear burnouts without the horrid wheel hop

Cabin noise Is much louder, and the whole car seems a lot different.
Kind of worried now because its my daily driver and I commute 17 miles to work, but Eh a lil vibration never hurt anybody, Plus its mostly louder at low RPM

ah and when you lug the engine now the whole car just Convulses.

Overall difficulty I would give it a 8 out of 10 with installing your own lowering springs being like a 6.5

There is no room to work near the firewall </TD></TR></TABLE>


Wiring up a stereo IS cake. LoL

 

protect the exposed wires with shrink tubing if you can.

 

I seriously put in the lower side mounts in less than 5 minutes for both, and my car has 135 k on it in a salty region, then again I had an impact wrench, w/o that it might have sucked. We did the back one in my friend's 97 teg but it took alot of work and he kinda had to cut the corners of it to slide it in.

 

yeah thats what Im saying,

The Rears are a pain in the ***.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Danronian &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I seriously put in the lower side mounts in less than 5 minutes for both, and my car has 135 k on it in a salty region, then again I had an impact wrench, w/o that it might have sucked. We did the back one in my friend's 97 teg but it took alot of work and he kinda had to cut the corners of it to slide it in.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i call bs on that, the passenger side was cake on mine took 2 minutes, but the driver side ac mount was a pain, not nearly as bad as the rear but was still more than a 5 minute job, imo a impact wouldnt have sped the process up that much

 

i think it was just emphasis to make his point.

if the wires arent cut and you dont want to cut them, the best you can do is electrical tape. but the best bet is to cut them, sauter them back, and heat shrink the joints

 

props to you man, i screwed around with these on my 91 da for like 2 hours then i realized i was trying to replace the side ones, when it was really for the front and back, then i screwed around with those for like 2 more hours, then i gave up.... 4 months later there still sitting in the package in my backseat

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Spectrum24x &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> props to you man, i screwed around with these on my 91 da for like 2 hours then i realized i was trying to replace the side ones, when it was really for the front and back, then i screwed around with those for like 2 more hours, then i gave up.... 4 months later there still sitting in the package in my backseat</TD></TR></TABLE>

LOL yeah I bought them from my work for like 30 bux for the set included 6 pieces and fit into 3 mounts, Installed them starting at 8 didnt finish till 2 am

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dc4g &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

LOL yeah I bought them from my work for like 30 bux for the set included 6 pieces and fit into 3 mounts, Installed them starting at 8 didnt finish till 2 am</TD></TR></TABLE>now that shows dedication...

 

On my DA, the front one took all of 15 minutes, plus an extra 15 for the radius rod bushings which I did at the same time when I dropped the cross member.

The rear one took quite a bit longer. Since I had all my control arms off at the time to replace all bushings, I dropped the rear crossmember with the steering rack (gayest part was getting the column to line up) and put it in from the ground.

Havn't driven it yet as I am getting my bushings pressed out of the control arms tomorrow. Hopefully it will be orgasmic but not to shakey!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by integra3586 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i call bs on that, the passenger side was cake on mine took 2 minutes, but the driver side ac mount was a pain, not nearly as bad as the rear but was still more than a 5 minute job, imo a impact wouldnt have sped the process up that much</TD></TR></TABLE>
Actually it really did take five minutes, i even have a witness. It was so easy and fast because I just did it on my friends teg a week before. How would it not take five minutes if I knew what i was doing and all the bolts came out fast? I also had one other person to help me, and yes i was rushing.

 

do they really do all that much??

 

I have ES motor mounts, full ES hyperflex poly bushing kit, full suspension, LSD and I STILL have wheel hop so...

 

I can still make the wheels hop sometimes, But WHen I lose traction in the wet It doesnt CHatter the whole car to peices, And when there is wheel hop the wavelengths are short and less dramatic.