Coilover drop.. How many inches?
I'm thinking about picking up the "Ground Control Coil-over Kit with Koni Sport (Yellow) Shocks" from http://www.redshiftmotorsports.com/suspension.htm that site. Anyone know how many inches of drop I can expect from the ground controls? Will I need a camber correction kit?
I think it is a 3 inch drop I'm not sure and you will need a camber kit ,y front is all the way down and my tires rub when i make a turn
I really don't want my tires rubbing. I have 15" rota slipstreams and they already rub sometimes if I take a turn and there's a bump, but that's on stock suspension. I'd assume with stiffer shocks/springs there'd be less danger of that.
if you only want only a 1 inch drop i would recomend drop springs over coilovers, also if your rubbing with stock stuff i dont know but the offset might be wrong because im riding on weapon-r coilovers dropped and ls mesh and i dont rub
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BiG Chris »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you only want only a 1 inch drop i would recomend drop springs over coilovers, also if your rubbing with stock stuff i dont know but the offset might be wrong because im riding on weapon-r coilovers dropped and ls mesh and i dont rub</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm gonna replace my suspension and after that if I still rub, I'll go back to where I had the rims mounted and complain. Where can I get some decent drop springs?
I'm gonna replace my suspension and after that if I still rub, I'll go back to where I had the rims mounted and complain. Where can I get some decent drop springs?
How about Eibach Sportline Lowering Springs? Would I need camber correction with these? http://www.slickcar.com/produc...=2039
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jesterian »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ouch.. Anyone know of some coilovers that will give me a decent ride, no more than 1" of drop, and not require a camber kit?</TD></TR></TABLE>
you do understand that you can adjust the height of the ground controls from 0-3", right? no? well you can.... but if you dont udnerstand that, then just get some eibach pro kits.
as for camber kits, you dont need em. you need an alignment after you change your ride height or springs. thats what saves tires.
you do understand that you can adjust the height of the ground controls from 0-3", right? no? well you can.... but if you dont udnerstand that, then just get some eibach pro kits.
as for camber kits, you dont need em. you need an alignment after you change your ride height or springs. thats what saves tires.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 91tealhatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">can u please explain why you dont need a camber kit? thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>
unless you have a huge drop(like 3in) your camber will not be overly affected....i have ground controls set about 1in from the bottom of the coil and my camber was fine after i got an alignment....i have about 2 degrees of camber in the front which is optimal for handling imo
unless you have a huge drop(like 3in) your camber will not be overly affected....i have ground controls set about 1in from the bottom of the coil and my camber was fine after i got an alignment....i have about 2 degrees of camber in the front which is optimal for handling imo
simple.
when you lower the car, both camber and toe settings change to more negative and inward, respectively.
when the toe is out of spec, its like the tires are constantly turning. this causes a lot of undue rubbing and friction even when rolling straight and will wear out the tire much faster, and unevenly.
the change in camber does not impact the wear of the tire, because all things considered equal, friction between the tire and ground is not affected when rolling straight because the tires sidewall will flex anyway to create an even contact patch to a generous degree, depending on the tire.
in fact, negative camber provides better grip in the turns. actually, dialing out the negative camber after lowering will typically decrease the amount of grip. the negative camber that is induced as the suspension moves upwards is designed to be there for optimal grip, depending on how hard the tire is cornering, but in general.
its easy to be confused because the wear that occurs is uneven, and even called "cambered wear". but that just describes the resultant shape of the tire, not how it occurred.
just get an alignment after lowering your car. dont spend money on a camber kit, unless the frame needs it to correct anything caused by an accident or something. or if you want MORE negative camber.
when you lower the car, both camber and toe settings change to more negative and inward, respectively.
when the toe is out of spec, its like the tires are constantly turning. this causes a lot of undue rubbing and friction even when rolling straight and will wear out the tire much faster, and unevenly.
the change in camber does not impact the wear of the tire, because all things considered equal, friction between the tire and ground is not affected when rolling straight because the tires sidewall will flex anyway to create an even contact patch to a generous degree, depending on the tire.
in fact, negative camber provides better grip in the turns. actually, dialing out the negative camber after lowering will typically decrease the amount of grip. the negative camber that is induced as the suspension moves upwards is designed to be there for optimal grip, depending on how hard the tire is cornering, but in general.
its easy to be confused because the wear that occurs is uneven, and even called "cambered wear". but that just describes the resultant shape of the tire, not how it occurred.
just get an alignment after lowering your car. dont spend money on a camber kit, unless the frame needs it to correct anything caused by an accident or something. or if you want MORE negative camber.
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iheartmyEG
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Sep 5, 2006 06:53 PM





