OK


Modified by PiNoYxRaCeRxRH88 at 5:07 PM 11/26/2005

 

IMO... bridge your amp and run the 2 voice coil in parallel. this will give you a 4 ohm load and around 500 watts RMS. I have the same sub and an amp of comparable power, works great

Brad

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bradlyw &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">IMO... bridge your amp and run the 2 voice coil in parallel. this will give you a 4 ohm load and around 500 watts RMS. I have the same sub and an amp of comparable power, works great

Brad</TD></TR></TABLE>
Dual 4 ohm voice coils in parallel = a 2 ohm load

Run a channel to each coil. This is your best option. Pay attention to phase. If its hooked up wrong you will have no bass. Just flip(invert) one of the speaker cables.

You can try bridgeing just becareful to watch the temperature of the amp. The amp wasn't designed to run a bridged 2 ohm load.

 

 

if you only have one terminal on your box i would probably recommend wiring it to a 2 ohm load and turn the gains down on your amp...if you play it loud for a while the amp will probably get hot and shut off so you need to monitor it...it is really a mismatched system you should use either a dual 2 ohm woofer or a single 4 ohm

 

LOL your not reading you question has been answered more then once.

1.) drill another hole in your box to connect another terminal. Then connect both channels up

2.) wire is series 8 ohm load. You will only get 250W

3.) wire in parallel for a 2 ohm load and watch the heat.

Someone evn drew you a picture what more do you need?

The amp doesn't change impedence. You change impedence by how you wire the speaker.

 

I would just wire a coil to each channel. If you wire 2 ohms your amp will more than likely go into thermal protection.

 

Bridge your amp and run the two voice coils in series, you will have an 8 ohm load but your distortion will go down considerably. Run this in a ported box since you have less total power and a sealed enclosure would just deaded it.

I find fosgate amps to be extremely powerful but have mid level clarity, wiring it this way you can take advantage of the the power (reduced allbe it) and increase the clarity. Besides you would have purchased more low freq equipment if you wanted to go deaf right?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BigJ5 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Bridge your amp and run the two voice coils in series, you will have an 8 ohm load but your distortion will go down considerably. Run this in a ported box since you have less total power and a sealed enclosure would just deaded it.

I find fosgate amps to be extremely powerful but have mid level clarity, wiring it this way you can take advantage of the the power (reduced allbe it) and increase the clarity. Besides you would have purchased more low freq equipment if you wanted to go deaf right?</TD></TR></TABLE>I am going to agree, more then a few times I have rewired for an 8 ohm load for customers that had the system wired for a 2 ohm load and constantly shutting down the sub amp because of over heating, in most cases the customer was satisfied with the result.

The other options you have are......
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nsxxtreme &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">LOL your not reading you question has been answered more then once.

1.) drill another hole in your box to connect another terminal. Then connect both channels up

2.) wire is series 8 ohm load. You will only get 250W

3.) wire in parallel for a 2 ohm load and watch the heat.

Someone evn drew you a picture what more do you need?

The amp doesn't change impedence. You change impedence by how you wire the speaker.</TD></TR></TABLE> At this point the easiest and safest thing to try is an 8 ohm load, [wire the VCs in series, if you don't like it that way you can....

1- change the sub to a DVC 8 ohm

2- change the amp to one that is stable down to 2 ohms, [bridgeable 2 ch or a mono block.

3- add another speaker term. to your box

There is a 4th option, replace the box and get one more sub and wire them parallel and series for a 4 ohm load, IMO that would be about the same as running one sub at 8 ohms, as the power would be split into 2 subs. 94

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PiNoYxRaCeRxRH88 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">planning to return the RF P5002 4 ohm stable and get a bazooka 500 watt 2 ohm stable mono amp.</TD></TR></TABLE>

doesnt matter its how you wire your sub. just do like the picture. you just making it too complicated for yourself

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ITB &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">doesnt matter its how you wire your sub.</TD></TR></TABLE> What? 94

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> What? 94</TD></TR></TABLE>

lol. "it doesnt matter, its how you wire your subs"