I recently purchased a 4040 proportioning valve. Thanks Tyson for the valve.

Now I am looking at this thing and wondering how to install it. Is there any type of write up that has had one installed? Maybe someone did one and can explain exactly what to do? Just like basic steps.

Pictures, maybe? Ill atleast need a picture of how it looks installed on an EF... please. Any picture will suffice. Just for referance my MC is 7/8 and the brake booster is stock.

Thanks for any help that can be provided.

 

just get a flare nut wrench. DO NOT ATTEMPT WITHOUT IT!

this is a picture of a flare nut wrench. get a 12mm/10mm combo from sears craftsman. youll need the 12mm, but the 10mm is gonna be handy.



if you try to loosen or tighten the nuts on the end of the brake lines, you WILL strip them.

other than that, it should be extremely easy to replace. just make sure its clean. and have a deep socket 10mm ratchet handy.

and then bleed the whole system. all 4 corners. buy a big bottle of cheap dot 3 fluid. then buy a small bottle of good stuff if you want, and rebleed. otherwise, youre wasting good stuff. you will find it easiest having a friend helping you bleed brakes.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just get a flare nut wrench. DO NOT ATTEMPT WITHOUT IT!
</TD></TR></TABLE>

One more time for emphasis....

Do not attempt without that wrench!

 

I presume you do have 10.2's F and discs in back right ?
Coz that's what a 4040 valve is for. If you have 9.5's in the front
and discs in back, you need a 4030. If you still got drums,
you shouldnt even bother.

A basic writeup:

You'll probably have to remove a lot of crap out of the way.
Intake, wiring, strut bar, etc Since the valve is located below
the fusebox area.

I'd recommend trying to loosen all the flare nuts before disconnecting
any of them. Although I think one or two maybe impossible to access
without disconnecting the lines above them. I think one line must be
removed last, and tightened first.

So you may have to gently bend the line slightly or remove the
mounting bracket bolt to get more access.

Be sure you can line up all the lines before tightening one up all the way.

It's also very messy. And brake fluid will eat paint quickly. My suggestion
is to wet down exposed paint areas with soapy water. And have a drip pan
and good shop rags to soak up the mess. Probably should drain your master
cylinder resevoir before you start as well. And you better have a lot of
disposable gloves.

 

4030? i dont think it exists...

there is a 2040 that is from the 90-91 CRX with 9.5" front discs and rear discs.

then there is a 3540 that is from the 90-91 EX sedan with 10" front discs and rear drums.
the 3540 also comes from the prelude with 10" front discs and rear discs.

then there is 3040 that is from the DX sedan with 9.4" front discs and rear drums.

its all very odd. i tried to sell 3540 for those ppl who just did the front big brake conversion and still have rear drums, but no one ever wanted it. everyone is so fixated on the 4040.... so thats what i offer.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just get a flare nut wrench. DO NOT ATTEMPT WITHOUT IT!

this is a picture of a flare nut wrench. get a 12mm/10mm combo from sears craftsman. youll need the 12mm, but the 10mm is gonna be handy.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I think you meant to say it the other way around.

For a Honda brake system, you'll need to use a 10mm flare nut wrench for all the lines, but a 12mm will come in handy also.

I've had them strip on me even with a flare nut wrench.

What I've been doing lately is soaking up the nut with some PB Blaster and then cranking a vise grip down on it to break it loose. Then finishing it with a flare nut wrench.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jonathan_ED3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I think you meant to say it the other way around.

For a Honda brake system, you'll need to use a 10mm flare nut wrench for all the lines, but a 12mm will come in handy also.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

hmm you may be right.

ok, i mixed it up


Modified by Tyson at 2:45 PM 11/22/2005

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by WWDTrackRacer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I presume you do have 10.2's F and discs in back right ?
Coz that's what a 4040 valve is for. If you have 9.5's in the front
and discs in back, you need a 4030. If you still got drums,
you shouldnt even bother.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You presume correctly. I have 10.3' Front rotors and (Integra) disks in the rear.

Keep the replies coming.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

hmm you may be right.</TD></TR></TABLE>

He is.

 

I'm probably confused myself. It's probably a 3040.
But I've been guilty of saying both 3040 or 4030 for my 91 CRX Si.

I believe these are correct for both my cars in stock form.

my 88 std had a 25/30
my 91 crx si has a 30/40 (rear discs) which Tyson says should be a 20/40

 

yea that flare nut wrech is very handy tool too have.cant do **** on brakes without it.

 

im pretty sure my 90 CRX Si says 2040. ill double check.

88 STD hatch, didnt know that had a unique prop valve either. ill have to add that to my list. thanks.


http://www.norcalcrx.org/tyson/brakepartslist.xls

 

to minimize the mess and amount of air entering the lines, install a vacuum cap over the flare nut once it's disconnected from the PV. This works well IMO.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by WWDTrackRacer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
my 91 crx si has a 30/40 (rear discs) which Tyson says should be a 20/40
</TD></TR></TABLE>

i just double checked my old 90 crx Si. its definately 2040.
and there is no part number change from 90-91.

 

2040 -- u right Tyson!

 

I was wondering... does my stock std come with a proportioning valve?

 

yea, you have a proportioning valve. can you not find it? it is right under the place where your wiring harness plugs are on the passenger side of the car. to the right of the stock battery location, on your shock tower.

 

I haven't looked for it.

Just wanted to know, I have no experience with this valve.