Honda Accord Brakes
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Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 9,172
Likes: 7
From: somewhere in MI
Re: Honda Accord Brakes (Defcon2030)
search seems to be down right now but once it's back up run a search in both the archives and recent posts on "front brakes" or something similar. You'll find a bunch of threads about it.
You'll also find that your front brakes are hub-over-rotor. What does that mean, it means it's a PITA.
Read through the threads you find in your search and learn from other people mistakes. Also you'll find a bunch of small write-ups explaining how to do it. I'll briefly write out what will be involved in replacing the front brakes. A basic tool set and a hammer are that it should take to do this job, along with more time than it would normally take to do a front brake job.
1. with car on ground, loosen axle nut on both fronts.
2. loosen lug nuts on both front rims.
3. jack up the front of the car and support on jack stands.
4. remove lug nuts and rims.
5. have someone hold the brake while you loose the four bolts on the face of the hub. These will later be removed to replace the rotor.
6. remove caliper bolts and support the caliper to the UCA or something with a zip tie or clothes hanger.
7. loosen lower ball joint nut but leave it on to protect threads.
8. hit the LCA with a small sledge hammer or deadblow hammer or something like that a few times. The LCA should drop.
9. remove the axle nut and lower ball joint nut.
10. remove the lower ball joint from the LCA.
11. remove the axle from the hub.
12. put the lower ball joint back into the LCA.
13. now you have access to the rear side of the knuckle, remove the four bolts holding the bearing/rotor/hub assembly to the knuckle.
14. now the bearing/rotor/hub assembly should drop away from the knuckle.
15. if it doesn't want to, try hitting the back side of the rotor with a hammer to help work it away from the knuckle. If it still doesn't want to come free, see note below.
16. Once the assembly is removed from the knuckle, remove those four bolts holding the rotor that you lossened earlier.
17. replace the rotor and reassembly in reverse order, compressing the piston and replacing the pads as you reinstall the caliper.
18. repeat steps 4 through 17 on the other side.
*note*
now, if you live in an area that see's winter weather, road salt and such, the bearing/rotor/hub assembly may be rusted in there and not want to budge. I had this problem. I just removed the knuckle from the car and took it to a machine shop and had them press everything out. I was also replacing the bearings so I gave them all the new parts and they reassembled everything at the same time. Total for both sides was $50 not including the parts. Not bad considering how much a brake shop would charge for labor.
I think that about covers replacing the front rotors. If I forgot something I'm sure someone will come along and correct me.
Also, may not be a bad time to bleed the brakes and get new fluid into the lines if you've never done it or don't know when the last time it was done.
You'll also find that your front brakes are hub-over-rotor. What does that mean, it means it's a PITA.
Read through the threads you find in your search and learn from other people mistakes. Also you'll find a bunch of small write-ups explaining how to do it. I'll briefly write out what will be involved in replacing the front brakes. A basic tool set and a hammer are that it should take to do this job, along with more time than it would normally take to do a front brake job.
1. with car on ground, loosen axle nut on both fronts.
2. loosen lug nuts on both front rims.
3. jack up the front of the car and support on jack stands.
4. remove lug nuts and rims.
5. have someone hold the brake while you loose the four bolts on the face of the hub. These will later be removed to replace the rotor.
6. remove caliper bolts and support the caliper to the UCA or something with a zip tie or clothes hanger.
7. loosen lower ball joint nut but leave it on to protect threads.
8. hit the LCA with a small sledge hammer or deadblow hammer or something like that a few times. The LCA should drop.
9. remove the axle nut and lower ball joint nut.
10. remove the lower ball joint from the LCA.
11. remove the axle from the hub.
12. put the lower ball joint back into the LCA.
13. now you have access to the rear side of the knuckle, remove the four bolts holding the bearing/rotor/hub assembly to the knuckle.
14. now the bearing/rotor/hub assembly should drop away from the knuckle.
15. if it doesn't want to, try hitting the back side of the rotor with a hammer to help work it away from the knuckle. If it still doesn't want to come free, see note below.
16. Once the assembly is removed from the knuckle, remove those four bolts holding the rotor that you lossened earlier.
17. replace the rotor and reassembly in reverse order, compressing the piston and replacing the pads as you reinstall the caliper.
18. repeat steps 4 through 17 on the other side.
*note*
now, if you live in an area that see's winter weather, road salt and such, the bearing/rotor/hub assembly may be rusted in there and not want to budge. I had this problem. I just removed the knuckle from the car and took it to a machine shop and had them press everything out. I was also replacing the bearings so I gave them all the new parts and they reassembled everything at the same time. Total for both sides was $50 not including the parts. Not bad considering how much a brake shop would charge for labor.
I think that about covers replacing the front rotors. If I forgot something I'm sure someone will come along and correct me.
Also, may not be a bad time to bleed the brakes and get new fluid into the lines if you've never done it or don't know when the last time it was done.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
From: Novi, MI, US
Re: Honda Accord Brakes (Defcon2030)
First of all - 90-97 Accord front brake desing is exactly the same.
Check this forum https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1427790.
Just some tips:
1. Loosening axle nuts can be tough - you might need 3/4 socket and breaker bar. I personally broke 2 Craftsman 1/2 breaker bars while working on my 91 Accord. Wheels on the ground - didn't work for me. It was too soft. I removed wheels and placed a wooden block under the rotor and then lowered the jack to make the rotor sit firmly on the block. Then I was able to break it loose.
2. Removing ball bearing assembly from the knuckle. This is what I used - http://www.geocities.com/vladi...1.pdf. It worked for both of my Accords. By the way, I live in Michigan. But this guide doesn't work for everybody - then the ball bearing has to be pressed out in a mashine shop.
You might need up to a whole day for this work and a spare car to go to a mashine shop.
An autoshop may charge you between $200 and $400 for the work, parts extra.
I haven't done anything on rear drum brakes, so cannot give any advice.
Check this forum https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1427790.
Just some tips:
1. Loosening axle nuts can be tough - you might need 3/4 socket and breaker bar. I personally broke 2 Craftsman 1/2 breaker bars while working on my 91 Accord. Wheels on the ground - didn't work for me. It was too soft. I removed wheels and placed a wooden block under the rotor and then lowered the jack to make the rotor sit firmly on the block. Then I was able to break it loose.
2. Removing ball bearing assembly from the knuckle. This is what I used - http://www.geocities.com/vladi...1.pdf. It worked for both of my Accords. By the way, I live in Michigan. But this guide doesn't work for everybody - then the ball bearing has to be pressed out in a mashine shop.
You might need up to a whole day for this work and a spare car to go to a mashine shop.
An autoshop may charge you between $200 and $400 for the work, parts extra.
I haven't done anything on rear drum brakes, so cannot give any advice.
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