ok, so im debating going dry sump on my motor...

the problems i see are this... on the moroso setup the pump is bolted up using the ac bracket mounts.... this puts it right in the way of my turbo/mani (fabworks ramhorn with a custom built garrett s housing).... the z10 setup puts the alternator there... not sure about clearance with it...

the other thing is this, the moroso os a 3 stage, i would like a 5 stage(maybe 6)(4 scavenge, 1 pressure) (2 for the crank, 1 for the turbo and 1 for the valvecover) i can get the 5 stage pump for like 300 bucks... the for around 4 with all the lines and such..

most of the pumps up and above moroso's are not reverse rotation. im trying to get ideas on what to do. i dont have a problem fabbing custom brackets, etc. i was thinking of using z10's oil pump block off and gear plus the moroso pan but im not sure what to do about pump/alt placement with my turbo manifold

 

If your running solid engine mounts you can run a conventional rotation pump backwards and mounted to the drivers side frame rail.You can pull some pretty serious vacuum with a three stage pump.High vacuum setups require some extra engine sealing issues.Engine seals are designed the see crankcase pressure to work.In high vac. they are pulled away from the shaft and cause an air leak.Wrist pin failure is common as well .You can see a drop in oil pressure as the oil is actually pulled thru the bearings.You can use a manifold and scavange from a few extra places if you want.
Glenn

 

well, they are 60a shore hardness... all 3 mounts (em1) , plus im going to have a solid bar (sort of like a torque dampener but no movement) made. think i could be ok? im going to be using a scavenge manifold for the oil pan... i figured for the turbo return and valvecover i could just run directly to scavenge ports on each section... i want to use at least a 4 stage although i would like six so i can have 2 for valve cover, 2 for oil pan and one for the turbo return... i can get the six stage pump for probably 250 or less if im good. what sort of sealing issues do you think id have?

 

i remember reading about the aem bonneville car.... they had a regulator that if the system pulled too much vacuum it popped a valve and let in fresh air to lower the vacuum level

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wantboost &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i want to use at least a 4 stage although i would like six so i can have 2 for valve cover, 2 for oil pan and one for the turbo return... i can get the six stage pump for probably 250 or less if im good. what sort of sealing issues do you think id have? </TD></TR></TABLE>Most 4 stage pumps start at over $1000. Not to mention tank, filter, custom pan, lines, custom brackets.

 

i know. but i have buddies that bought parts for their oval cars, etc...the team gets dismantled and they jsut sell things for what they can get. i have inside buddies

 

the tank i can get for around 200-250 with heater and everything.
pan - 100 that needs a small hole fixed or 250 for a mint one
filter - included in price of pump, as well as all the scavange lines and fittings
brackets - as long as i pay for metal the machine work is free

i have all sorts of connections im just trying to figure out how to get a standard rotation pump to work on a reverse roation motor.... the mounting it on the drivers side rail would work but i dont know how safe it would be

 

I'm looking for a tank heater if you can find me one cheap.

 

It may not be worth the effort trying to find more than a 3 stage reverse rotation pump. The Z10 kit is supposed to work very well [I'll be using it]. If you're going to be running a bypass like the AEM landspeed civic, the vacuum produced by the extra scavenging stages will probably be wasted.

Are you planning on running a mechancial fuel pump?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wantboost &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have all sorts of connections im just trying to figure out how to get a standard rotation pump to work on a reverse roation motor.... the mounting it on the drivers side rail would work but i dont know how safe it would be</TD></TR></TABLE>

youll be better off finding a reverse rotation or right side pump, which are the same thing, and as far as the mounting on the rail goes...even with solid motor mounts i wouldnt do it, mounting it to the engine is the only safe way to do it in my opinion

 

You could get fancy and run it off of the cam gears.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by k24em2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You could get fancy and run it off of the cam gears.</TD></TR></TABLE>
thats what im going to whine up doing im not to keen on this but ah what th e fuxx

 

ok back from the dead. im still trying to figure out what to do about the whole alternator relocation/dry sump placement.

finding a reverse rotation pump is proving to be a bitch... could i just reverse the shaft on a "normal rotation pump"? i would mount it where the z10 kit mounts it... but then could i still use my fluidampr?

what then would i do with the alt? mounting it on the front of the block wouldnt work because of the turbo and manifold...

 

Mount it off the cam gear. Then a standard rotation pump would work.

 

mount the oil pump off of the cam gear? hmm, that would take some serious bracketry to keep the weight off the cam and to get it perfectly centered.