87 crx si ported throttle body...
Hey all...
Awhile ago, I got a 87 crx si from a friend of the family w/only 50k on it. Considering I had a lot of Typr R stuff kicking around, I decided to make use of some of the old parts and graft them onto the crx.
The R's intake went on, as well as the r's injectors.
This weekedn, I decided to port the TB on the crx because there appeared to be a lot of restriction on the primary. All this worked good until I put it back on the car; it sounds like its stumbling and missing. I also noted that the idle is sitting around 1k, whereas before it was pretty solid at 750.
Now obviously it is flowing more air. My question is how to I get it to run smooth?
Cheers,
Andrew
Awhile ago, I got a 87 crx si from a friend of the family w/only 50k on it. Considering I had a lot of Typr R stuff kicking around, I decided to make use of some of the old parts and graft them onto the crx.
The R's intake went on, as well as the r's injectors.
This weekedn, I decided to port the TB on the crx because there appeared to be a lot of restriction on the primary. All this worked good until I put it back on the car; it sounds like its stumbling and missing. I also noted that the idle is sitting around 1k, whereas before it was pretty solid at 750.
Now obviously it is flowing more air. My question is how to I get it to run smooth?
Cheers,
Andrew
before I ported the tb, it was running great; had the timing set at 18... had some good grunt, but would taper off at high rpm, thus why I ported the tb. I figurted if I had real problems, I would graft on an adjustable fuel regulator, but that has not been called for.
You might need to use still larger injectors, like off a 86-87 teg, fuel rail and all, more air needs more fuel to get proper fuel/air ratio. O2 sensor bad? Good question from tjbizzo, he raises a good point, it should have been rich prior to the TB being ported. Try also looking at your fuel pressure. 
D Jaws II

D Jaws II
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I think he meant just the cold air intake tube, not the actual intake manifold. And the problem with switching injectors is that the stock ones are about 185cc and almost everything else is about 240cc. There's nothing really inbetween the two sizes. IMO the best solution is to use the stock injectors and raise your fuel rail pressure slightly. That assumes of course that the problem isn't due to something else like a loose/cracked/missing/plugged vacuum hose, aluminum flakes or something else preventing the IAV from closing properly, something out of adjustment from all the wrenching, etc.
Cheers guys, but whatever it was seems to have sorted itself out; possible something I left in the (Metal, BAd...) tb.
I should have mentioned earlier that a friend of mine is also going to regrined the cam for me and make it a little more aggressive, which is why I put the injectors on.
On the topic of switching parts back and forth, how does the valve train work on this motor? Would I have any chance of getting the r's valve springs in? Need any special tools to adjust valves?
Oh, by the way, removing all that restriction on the primary (approx 2mm) and cleaning the rest of it up, has really transformed the car. What are people running in the way of timing on these motors?
Thanks for the responses.
Andrew
I should have mentioned earlier that a friend of mine is also going to regrined the cam for me and make it a little more aggressive, which is why I put the injectors on.
On the topic of switching parts back and forth, how does the valve train work on this motor? Would I have any chance of getting the r's valve springs in? Need any special tools to adjust valves?
Oh, by the way, removing all that restriction on the primary (approx 2mm) and cleaning the rest of it up, has really transformed the car. What are people running in the way of timing on these motors?
Thanks for the responses.
Andrew
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