Is any one running a 225/45/15 on an eg? does it fit on all four corners?

 

it fit on my EF so there is no problem on your EG

 

.....it's really going to depend on set ride height, wheel offset and width, and camber.

"fit" I've found, is a relative term.... are there any body modifications allowed in your class/ series?

 

i have the avon tech-r 224-45-15 on koesi k1 +38 and no issues. i have rolled the fender. no camber correction and ride height is 4.25 at rear jack pad

 

I ran them on my hatch... you've got to have the right offset and roll the rear fenders. No, I don't remember what offset my wheels were

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Black R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">.....it's really going to depend on set ride height, wheel offset and width, and camber.

"fit" I've found, is a relative term.... are there any body modifications allowed in your class/ series?</TD></TR></TABLE>

just wait until i get cantilever slicks
23x9.5x15 front section width 10.4
23x8.5x15 rear sec. width 9.4

then "fit" will be relative

 

i run them in my car with no problem....and as u can see my car is sorta super low lol

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by myke &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i run them in my car with no problem....and as u can see my car is sorta super low lol
</TD></TR></TABLE>


Haha. But we fixed that didn't we.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by prkiller &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Haha. But we fixed that didn't we. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah every bump hurt my *** that low.

 

I'm using Toyo RA1 225/50/15 mounted on Mugen MF10L and I have to roll the rear fender in order to clear it. It could have cleared it with no modifications if I left the rear camber around -3°.

 

It could also depend on what brand of tire you are running. The Hoosier runs super wide. I heard a rumour that the 710 may become available in that size next spring and I would expect that to also be very wide. Toyo RA1 in that size is no problem, same with V700.

 

I'm guessing you will be racing at NWOR events. Did you race at any events during the 2005 season?

 

I will be new to nwor in 06.

 

What class will you be running in? SM or a prepared class?

 

I am running the 225/50/15 RA1's on my EG. Although, the rear fenders have been "massaged" several times by helpful competitors, and then massaged back by Airport Collision Center. Who knows how close they are to original now. I am planning on running the 225/45's soon like you, which should be a no brainer with the smaller diameter (just have to wait until they are allowed by my series regs)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mohudsolo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It could also depend on what brand of tire you are running. The Hoosier runs super wide. </TD></TR></TABLE>
With rolled fenders the Hoosiers fit fine

 

an easier solution, don't run 225's on the back of a fwd car. one, it's extra weight. two, it'll take longer to get the tire up to operating temp. three, you don't use all that tire anyhow.

nate

 

i think alot of people want to run a 225 in the rear so they can rotate front to rear, which makes the tires much more cost effective. thats often much more impotant to people than the competitive advantage it gives them.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by solo-x &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">an easier solution, don't run 225's on the back of a fwd car. one, it's extra weight. two, it'll take longer to get the tire up to operating temp. three, you don't use all that tire anyhow.

nate</TD></TR></TABLE>


.....are you suggesting the 'jdm' staggered setup?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Black R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">.....are you suggesting the 'jdm' staggered setup? </TD></TR></TABLE>

bah, nothing jdm about it. smart is what it is.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nikolai. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i think alot of people want to run a 225 in the rear so they can rotate front to rear, which makes the tires much more cost effective. thats often much more impotant to people than the competitive advantage it gives them.</TD></TR></TABLE>

weak cop out. a top of the line ITA car cost $20k-$30k. fuel and food/lodging for a weekend will cost $1k easy. tire cost/session is tiny compared to all that.

you aren't doing yourself any favors by wasting heat cycles on the wider tire on the back of the car and you aren't extending the tires life any. it will still last the exact same amount of time on the front of the car. buy one or two sets of rears, 4-5 sets of fronts. work the tires properly and flip them on the wheel halfway through their life. that's all the rotating you need.

nate - would go even more 'jdm' and run a softer compound rear tire as well

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by solo-x &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">weak cop out. a top of the line ITA car cost $20k-$30k. fuel and food/lodging for a weekend will cost $1k easy. tire cost/session is tiny compared to all that.

you aren't doing yourself any favors by wasting heat cycles on the wider tire on the back of the car and you aren't extending the tires life any. it will still last the exact same amount of time on the front of the car. buy one or two sets of rears, 4-5 sets of fronts. work the tires properly and flip them on the wheel halfway through their life. that's all the rotating you need.

nate - would go even more 'jdm' and run a softer compound rear tire as well</TD></TR></TABLE>

I understand what you are saying, but not everyone is trying to campaign a front running ITA car and thus do not have, nor require, that kind of a budget. I may be wrong, but I get the impression that the originator of the thread is preparing an autox car for regional level events.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shakedown94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

just wait until i get cantilever slicks
23x9.5x15 front section width 10.4
23x8.5x15 rear sec. width 9.4

then "fit" will be relative </TD></TR></TABLE>


Where are you purchasing your intended tyres? And mfr?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by solo-x &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">an easier solution, don't run 225's on the back of a fwd car. one, it's extra weight. two, it'll take longer to get the tire up to operating temp. three, you don't use all that tire anyhow.

nate</TD></TR></TABLE>

How do you know that your not using all the tire?

I have heard this many times, and I bet that with the correct setup, the 225 rear will be faster. Remember, quite often you are only using one of the rear tires anyway, so that extra grip can help!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Black R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


Where are you purchasing your intended tyres? And mfr?</TD></TR></TABLE>

hoosier or goodyear, same as e production and some smaller gt roadracers use
proably from "hoosier tom" at mid-atlantic.
wouldn't be legal for you if you stay in sm


Modified by shakedown94 at 5:01 PM 11/21/2005

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by prkiller &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have heard this many times, and I bet that with the correct setup, the 225 rear will be faster. Remember, quite often you are only using one of the rear tires anyway, so that extra grip can help!</TD></TR></TABLE>
Tell that to Bernardo. He runs staggered everywhere except Willow (maybe Fontana, too, but I can't remember).