hey guys, my parents just bought me a 02 RSX Type-S was wondering what are the best mods for that car its got an injen short ram air intake, borla catback, and comptech lowering springs, and was also wonderin what i should launch it at i tried around 2800rpm but the wheels just hopped and shook the whole car, thanks for the help....

 

I'll start off as I usually do. What are you goals? Specifically how much power do you want to make, 1/4 mile times, daily drivability etc.

Then I can give you a better idea on which route to take.

 

well its gona be a daily driver, just was wonderin what were some not too expinsive mods that would give a little gain mostly goin for like quarter mile or 1/8 drag....

 

Well, first I would sell your SRI. While it will provide some gains a CAI will outperform it significantly

So first Cold Air Intake

You already have an exhaust, so next would be a header. DC Race Header is the best bang for the buck. Eliminates the cat though.

Next I would go with Hondata #4 or Hondata K-Pro. Most likely #4 because you are on a budget.

Then a set of ES motor mounts. They will help significantly with the wheel hop you are talking about.

Lastly, a good set of tires.

 

how much would that hondata #4 run me, and would dc headers throw off any of my O2 sensors beacuse i had a prelude and i put a high flow cat on it and my O2 sensor was not workin and it was floodin out my car....

 

Hondata is the best bang for the buck that I listed. You should DEFINATELY get it. The difference has been as much as 1/2 a second off of people's quarter mile time.

Heres the website

http://www.hondata.com/reflash_rsx.html

The DC Race Header will throw a check engine light which causes your car to run improper. To get rid of the cel go with a Caspers O2 simulator or a defouler.

http://www.rsxmotorsports.com/caelo2sim.html

Any other questions just shoot.

 

wow that hondata sounds pretty good was reading the responses from people that did it and havn't seen any complaints is there anything bad about gettin the ecu flashed cause my dad isn't too fond of me tunning this car and don't want me to screw it up, so....

 

It does raise the stock revlimit, but I know hundreds of people that are running this program and no problems. Thats about it. Its a more aggressive tune than stock and is optimized for basic bolt ons.

Check out ClubRSX.com and search around there. Probably the best DC5 specific website out there.

 

kool thanks for the help man i belive i'll start savin up for to get my ecu flashed do u know where mine ecu is at tho do u know?

 

I believe on the Hondata website they have a writeup on what to send.

Basically one set of keys
You immoblizer under the steering wheel
ECU

Your ecu is located on your passenger side underneath the glovebox. Look where your passenger's feet would be. There will be three clips. Pop them off and remove the panel. The silver box is your ecu.

 

kool, thanks

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NJslvrtypes &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It does raise the stock revlimit, but I know hundreds of people that are running this program and no problems. Thats about it. Its a more aggressive tune than stock and is optimized for basic bolt ons.

Check out ClubRSX.com and search around there. Probably the best DC5 specific website out there. </TD></TR></TABLE>

You can choose to raise the stock rev limiter to 8600, or you can leave it if you want

 

Dont know if this is true or not but I heard that Hondata ECU will cause your car to stall

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1433092

Does anyone with the RSX experience stalling too?

 

Hondata will not make your car stall. It may run a little lean if you have a raceheader but that is it. I think that car was stalling because of his vast list of mods and a poor tune, perhaps.

Also, you can opt not to raise the stock rev limiter but that is where a lot of power is made. When you shift at 8600, the rpms drop right back into vtec where the power is.

 

m4d tight wh33l h0p yo!!

just drop it at 5500RPM...right around VTECK, you'll get a nice kick....wheel hop should then be eliminated

 

One, of my friends was tellin me that an underdrive pulley would help out my rsx alot, is this true and how hard are they to install or would i want to get someone that knows what they are doin to do it???

 

Underdrive pulleys don't add that much hp. A few dynos have been floating around CRSX in the past and the most I have seen them add is 3-5 hp. Also, some people state that they mess with the harmonic balance of the engine and in the long run can cause problems. How much of that is true, I don't know but for the minimal gains they add I won't be using them ever.

Decide if your staying NA or going FI and go from there. Basic bolt ons or basic turbo or supercharger kit. Work from there.

 

was also lookin at some dc sports headers whats the diffrence between dc sports racing headers and dc sports 4-2-1 headers? and would i be able to feel any difrence over stock headers says on dc sports web site around 12hp gain over stock... thanks

 

dont mess with shorty headers...they are not worth the money unless you get a test pipe. If you want to stay street legal...then get a shorty and get a high flow cat...otherwise get a race header. you will notice significant gains from the elimination of the cat. However. If you have Hondata you will not want to get a race header...you will run a bit too lean. Some people do run dangerously lean when they pu the race header on wth #4.

Pullies are a great step for any NA engine...thats my next motor mod...however dont mess aroudn with AEM...they arent worth the money.

and anyone that knows anythign about our engine knows our crankshafts is counterweighted and balanced internally.... and that there is no "harmonic balancer"

 

For the time it takes to replace those damn pulleys and the risks its not worth the couple hp in my opinion. I have seen numerous dyno sheets and the most hp I have seen is around 5.

Also our crank is balance internally, all cranks are. But did I mention messing with the harmonic balance of our crank. Heres some good info from my LITTLE knowledge of the K202 in a million pieces on my garage floor.

The factory crank pulley has a built-in harmonic dampener, in the form of a split design, with a thick rubber pad sandwiched between two steel sheels. The dampener is designed to absorb torsional and vertical vibrations from the crank. MOST underdrive crank pulleys do not have a harmonic dampener at all. (Including AEM and other crappy companies for the K Series)

This can lead to premature crank bearing failure. How quickly? Who knows. But again the minimal gains are not worth the risks IMO. I wouldn't go as far as saying they are necessary on a NA build.

 

to my knowledge the so called "harmonic balance" with is actually an elatomer...is very thin on our motors...thats what i saw when i have seen them...

i stated our cranks were balanced and counterwiehgted ...and no not all engine are...hell even the k20a3 is not weighted...just balanced...

our engines balance while not as balanced as a boxer...has no use for a damper on the crank...there is not one

to someone that is NA...the 5-10 horses that a pulley system gives is extremely valuable

 

I know I stated that most motors are balanced, which all are.

I agree back when I was NA 3-5 hp was a lot. But he was asking if they add a lot of hp and they don't. I didn't want him thinking he was going to get earth shattering results from 200 dollar pulleys.

Plus he would be better off getting a header, CAI, or Hondata to pick up a few more NA horsepower.

 

i will have to agree with that statement....the RH is going to give more gains...

i woudl do the pullies last...right with cams...

thats what i am doing to finish out my setup...

once i get done ill have around 215 Na horses...which is a feat for a mild cam

and pullies are integral in getting me that 215

 

You have a pretty good NA list going there. I would take a look at a set of ITB's or Ron's custom intake manifold. You could pick up some good gains there.

 

so if i got DC sports ceramic race headers it would replace my stock cat or would i have to get a test pipe to replace it?