Best way remove clear coat surface scratches?
some stupid fat *** kid decided to make the trunk or my new car (Lexus black paint job) his ****** personal seat today while i was in school and scratched the hell out of my clear coat
im really bummed out about this
does anyone know any good buffing compounds or non-abbrasive car care products that can help me remove these scratches on the clear coat or how to go about getting it repaired? there are also some scratches from the fat-asses belt that went slightly into my paint, anyone know how to get those out too?
any help would be greatly appreciated, thank you in advance eveyone
im really bummed out about thisdoes anyone know any good buffing compounds or non-abbrasive car care products that can help me remove these scratches on the clear coat or how to go about getting it repaired? there are also some scratches from the fat-asses belt that went slightly into my paint, anyone know how to get those out too?
any help would be greatly appreciated, thank you in advance eveyone
if it went to the paint, time to repaint. If it's just surface scratches, check out the detailing thread by bunmango or something like that in this section.
ok my friend.....
..here it go.... but i ask you.. be very careful when doing this...:
1)apply water all over the surface that got damaged
2)use a 1500 grip sand paper...
3)a bucket with clean water
Wet the damaged area and keep the sand paper as wet as it needs to be, and lightly... almost only with the weight of your hand, sand the area damaged... and remember.. keep it wet at all times, so that way, you will wear away the top of the surface clear coated and "even" it out as you go!!!
After removing a little bit, the surface is going to look flat black.... it's ok... not...
clean the surface, dry it if you want... and apply "rubbing compound" and buffer it... if the machine has different speeds, buffer it with less than half of it's full speed, so that way you polish the area that was wet sanded and bring it back to life.
Make sure you go very evenly over the surface, and don't buffer it dry, because that cause swirls... and on black paint, take a while to be removed.
You will probably need some "wax for black cars" or "glaze for black paint", do it as needed and enjoy your "new" trunk!!!
Peace out.....
..here it go.... but i ask you.. be very careful when doing this...:
1)apply water all over the surface that got damaged
2)use a 1500 grip sand paper...
3)a bucket with clean water
Wet the damaged area and keep the sand paper as wet as it needs to be, and lightly... almost only with the weight of your hand, sand the area damaged... and remember.. keep it wet at all times, so that way, you will wear away the top of the surface clear coated and "even" it out as you go!!!
After removing a little bit, the surface is going to look flat black.... it's ok... not...
clean the surface, dry it if you want... and apply "rubbing compound" and buffer it... if the machine has different speeds, buffer it with less than half of it's full speed, so that way you polish the area that was wet sanded and bring it back to life.
Make sure you go very evenly over the surface, and don't buffer it dry, because that cause swirls... and on black paint, take a while to be removed.
You will probably need some "wax for black cars" or "glaze for black paint", do it as needed and enjoy your "new" trunk!!!
Peace out.....
as far as the water goes, it'd be smart to put some water with a little bit of hand soap in a squirt bottle and have in hand as well as a bucket of water right next to you. A squegee (sp) as well. The water isn't to keep it "even" it's to lube up the surface so the clear you're sanding off doesnt gunk up on the sandpaper. Prolongs the life of the sandpaper, also makes sanding easier and more precise.
thanks everyone
anybody know how i will be able to tell when i get to the point to where i wont have to sand anymore?
anybody know how i will be able to tell when i get to the point to where i wont have to sand anymore?
That's not what i said... ....i guess you didn't understand how i meant when i typed!!!
Hand soap? Why is that?... i really don't think soap would help.....
btw... i wet sand and buff at least one car at day.... and tomorrow i already have 3 cars to do.... ..never used soap!!
Hand soap? Why is that?... i really don't think soap would help.....
btw... i wet sand and buff at least one car at day.... and tomorrow i already have 3 cars to do.... ..never used soap!!
yes... when you dry the surface and see a flat back only... without the scratches... that's when you start the buffering.....
...even light wet sanding leaves the surface flat....
...even light wet sanding leaves the surface flat....
Trending Topics
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gianinline »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That's not what i said... ....i guess you didn't understand how i meant when i typed!!!
Hand soap? Why is that?... i really don't think soap would help.....
btw... i wet sand and buff at least one car at day.... and tomorrow i already have 3 cars to do.... ..never used soap!!</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's just what I was tought from numerous videos in autobody. But I guess since you do this stuff daily (even though you never stated where/for who, could just be, but not saying it is, some at home DIY work) you must know what you're talking about. Dont know if it was hand soap or dish soap, one or the other but had something to do with what the soap is made out of. Do you not THINK soap wouldnt help or do you KNOW soap wouldnt help?
Again you could be right but I saw it in numerous auto repair videos in autobody and advanced autobody at my local highschool. I know it's not the best education for this topic but it's not like it was only in one video either.
Hand soap? Why is that?... i really don't think soap would help.....
btw... i wet sand and buff at least one car at day.... and tomorrow i already have 3 cars to do.... ..never used soap!!</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's just what I was tought from numerous videos in autobody. But I guess since you do this stuff daily (even though you never stated where/for who, could just be, but not saying it is, some at home DIY work) you must know what you're talking about. Dont know if it was hand soap or dish soap, one or the other but had something to do with what the soap is made out of. Do you not THINK soap wouldnt help or do you KNOW soap wouldnt help?
Again you could be right but I saw it in numerous auto repair videos in autobody and advanced autobody at my local highschool. I know it's not the best education for this topic but it's not like it was only in one video either.
Wet sanding should be your LAST RESORT. Don't start with that ****, cause chances are, something far less involved will do the trick. I recommend these products:
Aggressive:
Meguiars Medium Cut Cleaner or Fine Cut Cleaner
Moderate:
Meguiars Medallion Paint Cleanser
Meguairs Swirl Remove 2.0
Pretty Light:
Mezerna Intensive Polish and Final Polish (they have a brand new one out that is supposed to be the only thing to cut ceramic clear coats, too). These are the absolute best products I've ever used to remove minor swirls!
Good luck. Make sure to use the proper polishing equipment (quality microfiber towels, Porter Cable 7424, cutting pads, wax pads, etc.)
Aggressive:
Meguiars Medium Cut Cleaner or Fine Cut Cleaner
Moderate:
Meguiars Medallion Paint Cleanser
Meguairs Swirl Remove 2.0
Pretty Light:
Mezerna Intensive Polish and Final Polish (they have a brand new one out that is supposed to be the only thing to cut ceramic clear coats, too). These are the absolute best products I've ever used to remove minor swirls!
Good luck. Make sure to use the proper polishing equipment (quality microfiber towels, Porter Cable 7424, cutting pads, wax pads, etc.)
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
89DXDann
Honda CRX / EF Civic (1988 - 1991)
2
May 25, 2004 10:41 PM




