Damn this **** sucks. I'm picking up some dry ice tomorrow, because at this rate it will take 12-14 hrs to pull up all the sound deadening.

 

Damn. Have fun with that... it shouldn't take more than a couple of months.

 

Damn R wannabe....... Should of kept 1381.....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Smitdog &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Damn R wannabe....... Should of kept 1381..... </TD></TR></TABLE>

Maybe

 

dry ice, hamer, pry bar = 30minutes and your done

 

No need for dry ice if you have an air chisel. Got mine out in about an hour. MUCH easier than a hammer. Get yourself a good set of earplugs though!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bosco500 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No need for dry ice if you have an air chisel. Got mine out in about an hour. MUCH easier than a hammer. Get yourself a good set of earplugs though!
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Except those occasional errors with the air chisel suck a little bit. Nothing like a "take no prisoners" tool. I have a little left to do that was stubborn so it is dry ice for the rest. I don't want a Flintstone mobile floor on the driver side. (Well I wasn't that bad with it).

Barry H.

 

Here is why you should not take sound deadening out. Especially if you're already underweight. It is a great balast. It is pretty much distributed everywhere and mostly at the lowest point of the car!

 

It looks like poop!

 

Impact chisel. Karl unleashed it on his sound deadening one fine afternoon and the **** just flew (literally) out of his car....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Damn this **** sucks.</TD></TR></TABLE>

RJ, I suggest you shelve this project until it gets impossibly cold up by you. I did my GS-R a few years ago with an air chisel on a really cold winter afternoon. The stuff came up in big chunks - sheets even - that were easily disposed of.

As the others have said, use caution with an air chisel. I punched a couple (small) holes in my floorboard with mine by not paying attention.

 

Hopefully, the dry ice will bring the cold to me, without the wait and the impossibly cold garage that goes with it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hopefully, the dry ice will bring the cold to me, without the wait and the impossibly cold garage that goes with it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Granted. The problem with that approach is, it gets you cold tar only where you've applied the dry ice. That and you have to wait for the cold to really penetrate the car...by that time, that particular piece of dry ice has likely evaporated.

Waiting until the winter allows you access to a completely frozen car - no spot areas, the whole thing is stone cold. It really is easy that way. Good luck with it regardless.

 

One more vote for the air chisel.

It makes light work of it...and yes it does require finesse in some spots. If you can adust it, crank it down for the lightest action you can get on it.

Good luck! This part does suck donkey *****...

 

Word on the ballast issue. I say get it out of the driver's side footwell and call it done. It doesn't look like poop covered in a nice shiny coat of paint.

 

Unless its brown paint.

 

ESPECIALLY if it's brown paint.

 

Get serious with the ear plugs. I think I am honestly a little deaf from "tar smashing" one summer where I did 6 cars ....4 of which I was "hardcore" I didn't use ear protection....

I used a 3lb sledge and a 1ft crowbar and it came off pretty good even in crazy summer heat.

I tried to be as thorough as possible and polished off the residual tar bits with a metal scouring pad and some VIM toilet cleaner.

The pinnacle of my insanity came when I decided the seam sealer was "ugly" cuz some tar had stuck to it and brought in the propane torch..... I learned very quickly to get an industrial respirator.... but then the car caught fire.....but that's another story....

My favorite is trying to remove the firewall mat without removing the dash....

 

STis don't come with any either

Going to 3rd the ballast comment.

-Tom

 

How flamable is the sound deadning material? Seems to me that removing all of it would make for one less thing to burn in the event of a fire...

 

It burns pretty good.... trust me....

but the seam sealer itself appears to be the most flammable....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RagingAngel &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">but the seam sealer itself appears to be the most flammable....

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Speaking of that stuff.... I was just planning on leaving it be and painting over it - unless someone has a reason to go at it with the wire wheel.

 

I only get rid of it where I need to weld. Or if there is a big obnoxious clump of it somewhere that is not acutally bonding anything.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Speaking of that stuff.... I was just planning on leaving it be and painting over it - unless someone has a reason to go at it with the wire wheel.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Leave it by all means...it's structural on these cars.

just remove the excess gobs that are everywhere....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Andrie &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Here is why you should not take sound deadening out. Especially if you're already underweight. It is a great balast. It is pretty much distributed everywhere and mostly at the lowest point of the car!</TD></TR></TABLE>

i agree... in retrospect i wouldn't take it out again... it weights so little. but the problem is once you start on a little section, it's hard not to do rest of the car...