Alright, I've been thinking about turboing my 6th gen for a while now, but I got almost 110k miles on the hoss. People have told me to do my internals and stuff. What should I do with the internals and how much would it cost to do whatever there is to be done? Thanks for the help guys

P.S. whats the best turbo kit for a 6th gen?

 

well first of all i turbo'd my 6th gen accord, and i had about 120,000miles on my car and it went fine, so as long as you tune it right and don't use excessive amounts of boost you will be okay.

as far as internals, go i am doing that right now my self also, just to let you know what im doing first, i got golden eagle sleeves, custom eagle rods, and custom JE pistons, valves, and valve springs, also injectors, and an aem ems. i started out with just rods, pistons, and sleeves and thats running at about 4200, with injectors, and sensors and such.

you can easily spend 3k on internals, but its easy to get carried away, i just added a couple of things to that beginning list and went from 4k to about 6k with the add of a couple of items.

i would suggest sleeves pistons and rods, minimum. if your gonna spin the **** out of your motor (road race or something) i would say valves and springs too, if you have the money do a standalone computer for tuning to get the most out of your motor.

as far as turbo kits go, just do it custom if you have the means and money to, cause that way you get the most out of it, and what parts you want for the kit you desire. if you decide to go with a premade kit id suggest drag or f-max ive heard mostly positive things about them.....

hope this helps!

 

woooow.... ....4k to 6k just in internals.... that's a lot of money... ...but i'm sure it's going to be beyond expetations...!!

 

well its also including ems, sensors, and gaskets, bolts, tuning, but id say just on pistons rods, sleeves, valves, valve springs, gaskets, bolts, pumps, on just the motor build id say easy 5k.... so it is a lot of money, but ya know what tho, you have that many more options available in the future

 

First thing I would do would be to do a compression test. If that turns out ok then I would say boost it.

Internals could mean different things to different people and I will try and hit upon a couple of them.

Block: Internal block (pistons, rings, crankshaft etc) already has iron sleeves from factory and lower compression pistons (8.8:1 I believe) which is basically already "built" for boost from the factory.

Head: The head (springs, retainers, cam etc) will benefit THE most with an upgrade if you're planning on boosting. A better cam, stiffer/better springs, better retainers and head studs will ensure even at higher boost (15-20) things will stay put. From the factory the springs, head studs and cam aren't made for high revving and high pressure hence why I said it would benefit the most from an upgrade.

I am not 100% sure on the 6th gens but for the 4th and 5th generation accords 10-12 psi is pretty standard on stock internals both head and block; any more than that I would upgrade the head before the block. As for the f23 found in the 6th gens, I am assuming most carried over from previous generations.

Happy boosting

 

F23 is 9.3:1 compression. I'm willing to put $1000 on a bet right now that the piston ringlands will go LONG before anything happens to the head.

There is no real point to revving an F series much higher than stock, the R/S ratio is not conducive to high revving and you won't make power above 7k anyway.

I say upgrade the bottom end way before even touching the head. Pistons & rods should be sufficient, the stock sleeves are very beefy and are already iron so they can take some abuse.

 

How much is a compression test or how may I do it myself?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by twobit &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How much is a compression test or how may I do it myself?</TD></TR></TABLE>

you can pick up the tool at AutoZone for about $30... good thing to have especially if your boosting

If you're serious about boosting, here's a good thread to check out... https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=783372

 

Ok, if I buy it, how exactly do I do the test? sorry for being so helpless, Im new to the motorhead trend

 

Pull all spark plugs. The tester is a guage with a length of hose and an attachment at the end of the hose. That attachment gets inserted into each cylinder via the spark plug tubs. Turn over the engine a few times... it won't start. Once the guage settles on a number, move to the next tub until all 4 have a number. As long as the numbers are consistent accross the board, compression is good.

 

you left out a couple of steps:

pull all plugs
pull fuel pump fuse (or disconnect all injector clips) or you'll get lots of gas in your cylinders
install tester into 1st cylinder
have friend hold tester, get in, press gas pedal all the way to floor, turn car over until the needle in gauge stops moving (6-7 cranks - have buddy yell stop when needle stops moving)
record value
repeat for each cylinder

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by notoriousB &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">F23 is 9.3:1 compression. I'm willing to put $1000 on a bet right now that the piston ringlands will go LONG before anything happens to the head.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I stand corrected. I guess due to the higher compression than the 4th and 5th gens may cause extra wear on the rings?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by notoriousB &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
There is no real point to revving an F series much higher than stock, the R/S ratio is not conducive to high revving and you won't make power above 7k anyway.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Agreed but making a head able to handle boost is also a good idea. One thing I would upgrade would be at least the head studs.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by notoriousB &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you left out a couple of steps:</TD></TR></TABLE>

works fine just the way I do it

 

hey if you want to flood your cylinders and get lower readings because the throttle body is choking the motor then by all means continue!