I have an f22b2. How do i replace stock sparks and wires with some NGK's?

 

3/8" drive ratchet
6" extention
5/8" deep well socket

Pull the wires, remove the plugs, replace the plugs, replace the wires

 

should f22b2's take in the iridiums or the normal ngk sparks? does it have any difference since my car isnt an ex??

 

Iridiums are crap, just get the NGK VPower

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Vt4cPwn35 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Iridiums are crap, just get the NGK VPower </TD></TR></TABLE>

word^ iridiums suck ***!

NKG is like oem, just way better, lol.


-jose

 

thanks for the great, informative replies! i found out why my car was sputtering and having the check engine light on. it was number 3 and 4 wires keeping coming out of its sockets. heh.

 

no problem

 

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1432116

More replies, if wanted.

 

Check your owner's manual for more information.

For my '99 LX, it gives you the steps, including "5. Torque the spark plug. (If you do not have a torque wrench, tighten the spark plug two-thirds of a turn after it contacts the cylinder head.) Tightening torque: 13 lbf-ft (18 N-m, 1.8 kgf-m)"

I'm assuming that a '97 would be the same, but it might be different (different generation), check the owner's manual.

 

Very simple, just need a ratchet and the proper spark plug. Things to pay attention to: plug gap, torque, and also put some anti seize on there. Also, when you put the new ones in, screw them in by hand with just and extention and a socket. Do not use a ratchet until they are in there. It's easy to strip the threads on you head if you just start going at them with a ratchet. And when they start to get tight, break out the torque wrench and torque them to the specified torque. Once you do it enough, you can skip the torque wrench, you will be able to feel how tight you need them. If it's you first time, do it exactly like the manual says or find the gap and torque online. As for the wires, replace one at a time so you don't mix them up and mess up your firing order. This is probably the easiest thing to do on your car though.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by d112crzy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

word^ iridiums suck ***!

NKG is like oem, just way better, lol.


-jose</TD></TR></TABLE>

They don't suck ***, it's the lowly motor that cannot make a half a horse off the iridiums plug, stick a set of those plugs in a supra or a v8 mustang i bet you you'll get a bump in hp.

If Irirdium really suck, why the hell almost all major spark plug maker have a version of those? NGK, DENSO(which is the OEM for honda), Champion and even OBX

in other word, what doesnt work for joo, might work for other, so don't bash it

 

ONE LAST IMPORTANT THING

put some anti-seize on the thread before you stick it back, it's not exactly fun to have a stuck plug.(a drop of fresh motor oil will do also)

always, always hand tighten before using the rachet, once you cross thread the head, it's done

 

I'd use stock replacement parts as they seem to work best

 

just to add to what iam7head said. Putting to much anti-seize on the threads can cause a torque multiplying affect. Basically, the anti-seize will cause you to over torque even though your using a torque wrench because it makes the threads slip and get tighter rather than torquing out at the specified amount.

A little amount can aid in later removal but too much can cause problems. So if you do use it, spread it out evenly and sparingly across the threads.

 

One at a time?

 

install factory plugs and wires

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Honda-Master &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">install factory plugs and wires </TD></TR></TABLE>

to this guy for a great 1st post