Well i just bought 75 feet of brake line, my braided ss brake lines, wilwood proportioning valve, residual pressure valve and the metric brake fittings. i want to get an idea of how you guys ran your lines.

also, im not running a prop. valve on the front brakes... its goingto be run directly off of the master cylinder, im trying to figure out what kind of fitting to use to split the line to both calipers and still provide equal braking timing and pressure.. im using the wilwood prop. valve on the rear discs.. car is a 99 em1 btw

 

I would try in the road racing/ autocross forum.

 

maybe I'm missing something, but you need the prop valve to control the bias between the front/rear brakes. I don't see how you are going to run the fronts directly off the master cylinder. Thats a guaranteed way to spin if you ever hit the brakes in a turn.

 

yeah, i would think if too much pressure are going to the rear brakes you would spin out as if you pulled the ebrake. i rember my old beretta gtz used to lock the rear brakes when i hit them hard, created some dangerous situations

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kommon_sense &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">maybe I'm missing something, but you need the prop valve to control the bias between the front/rear brakes. I don't see how you are going to run the fronts directly off the master cylinder. Thats a guaranteed way to spin if you ever hit the brakes in a turn.</TD></TR></TABLE>

no... look at your typical race car... the only proportioning they do with a valve is the rear brakes.... as for the fronts, its called brake modulation... learn to use it

 

wouldn't it still be a safer/smarter setup to just have an adjustable prop valve to control front/rear, and additional valves if you need to adjust left/right?

 

im only adjusting rear.... i have a fitting up front that distributes left-right 50/50 same with the rear only im controlling how much pressure goes through that fitting

 

i have done htis in my 90 jdm ef7 race car , the thing with these cars is some had abs so i had to change to a single rear line to use the bias valve and then put a tee joint in to go off to the two calipers , im trying to remember which take off i used on the master cylinder for the fronts the car is at my workshop at the moment so il look at it soon and get back to you

 

Just make sure you find a RAILWAY to drive on because if the front brakes lockup too early you will be SOL (sheeeee...it outta luck) in the control department. If you are using dual master cylinder setup you might be able to get away with your line of thinking but a brake bias adjuster is the safest road to follow when builing a custom setup.

Are you drag racing or road racing?

You can find all the fittings you need on anplumbing.com. I use ANPLUMBING to find the PN but I usually make my purchases from Summit Racing.

 

im going to mostly be road racing. i am purchasing a wilwood aluminum dual pedal setup... clutch and brake along with 3 1" wilwood aluminum high volume master cylinders. the pedals area reverse mount so the mc's will be inside the car under the dash. i am getting the remote bias adjuster and i already havea wilwood prop. valve for the rear circuit just incase

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wantboost &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im going to mostly be road racing. i am purchasing a wilwood aluminum dual pedal setup... clutch and brake along with 3 1" wilwood aluminum high volume master cylinders. the pedals area reverse mount so the mc's will be inside the car under the dash. i am getting the remote bias adjuster and i already havea wilwood prop. valve for the rear circuit just incase</TD></TR></TABLE>

1" sounds too big. For your clutch I would use a 3/4" and for the brakes I would use 5/8th's or 3/4"... unless you want to end up with a big right leg.

On my CRX I used 2 5/8ths for my brakes and it still takes time to get used to... no booster and all.

 

just been and looked at my car to remind myself how i did the fronts , i didnt use a left right bias valve at all just put a tee junction on the stut tower and ran it off to the calipers and then had a manual bias valve to adjust front to rear mounted next to the seat. i have never ever had a problem with one wheel recieving more braking power than the other with this set up so i duno what everyone is on about im wondering how many of them have actually done this mod to there cars

 

Does that brake assembly come with a balance bar?

On the issue of lines, I plumbed my entire car with flex line... the jury's still out on that decision though. I'm trying to track down a spongy pedal half the people I talk to say it's due to the flex line... the other half say that's not the problem. My point is you may want to run hard line instead, except where needed...

{edit} I reread your original post and it looks like you do have hard line. Good.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TrueNorthStar &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

1" sounds too big. For your clutch I would use a 3/4" and for the brakes I would use 5/8th's or 3/4"... unless you want to end up with a big right leg.

On my CRX I used 2 5/8ths for my brakes and it still takes time to get used to... no booster and all.</TD></TR></TABLE>

well, im gonna try 1" first with my whole brake setup, if i dont like it then i wil downgrade because im getting a pretty good price on all 3 new. so why not

 

He's right, those master cylinder sizes will result in a pedal as hard as a rock (a good thing) but you won't be able to apply enough force to stop (very bad.) You must adjust the size to balance motion and force. Sure, go ahead and try what you have, but I hope you don't live at the top of a steep driveway...

 

nah, driveway is pretty flat. lol
like i said, its an experiment to see which size is best. i got all 3 for like 130shipped too, so icould sell them and make money

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kb58 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Does that brake assembly come with a balance bar?

On the issue of lines, I plumbed my entire car with flex line... the jury's still out on that decision though. I'm trying to track down a spongy pedal half the people I talk to say it's due to the flex line... the other half say that's not the problem. My point is you may want to run hard line instead, except where needed...

{edit} I reread your original post and it looks like you do have hard line. Good.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I've seen issues with drag race "slipper" clutches not working properly due to line flex in the stainless lines, and it was resolved with redoing it all in hard line except for a very small portion at the end. That could very well be your problem.

 

yea, comes with a balance bar... im also getting the remote adjuster as well