since we went 9.9 @ 146, we were now in need of better brakes. heres the pics. let me know what you think as far as the design. its my first time.

 

Looks damn good

 

very nicely done.

 

damn..... so clean.

 

I wish I could do that!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by carbonall &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I wish I could do that!</TD></TR></TABLE>

i wish i had a car that would need that

 

Did you mig weld those bars for the chute anchor. It looks like you stop and go a million times. I can see the divots from the wire. Looks decent but doesn't penetrate all that well.

 

Yeah it looks awesome! I agree with the statement of it looking like you used a MIG welder on it and tacked a bunch of times...I thought it may have been TIG first, but there seems to be alot of little pieces of spatter for it to be a TIG weld. Im sure they will hold fine, but as stated, you lose alot of penetration by doing so. The overall design is awesome. Is it solid bar or tubing? Normally they use real small diameter 4130 tubing to minimize in the weight aspect, but maybe thats not anything to worry about in your case. Good Job!
Kyle

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blueoval557 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah it looks awesome! I agree with the statement of it looking like you used a MIG welder on it and tacked a bunch of times...I thought it may have been TIG first, but there seems to be alot of little pieces of spatter for it to be a TIG weld. Im sure they will hold fine, but as stated, you lose alot of penetration by doing so. The overall design is awesome. Is it solid bar or tubing? Normally they use real small diameter 4130 tubing to minimize in the weight aspect, but maybe thats not anything to worry about in your case. Good Job!
Kyle</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah, like i said this is really the first chassis work that ive done. i dont use my mig very often so im a little timid when i do. i generally use my tig for everything but it would have been impossible to tig the under sides of the tubes. the metal is 1.5 inch chromoly, 1/8 inch thick. should be enough to hold the car back.

any advice for migging next time, i can take as many tips as i can get.

 

at first, i thought u attached the chute to the rear hatch,

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mr john &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i generally use my tig for everything but it would have been impossible to tig the under sides of the tubes. is
</TD></TR></TABLE>


looks good.......not impossible to tig it.......i tigged mine and told myself i'd never ever do it again hahahaha. god that sucked

 

looks good, I was going to say, make sure that you reinforce the tail gate, but it looks like you allready did.

 

for those who dont know how a chute works. there is no need to reinforce the tail gate cause the chute pulls on the bars he welded in when its realeased not the gate. good job looks good

 

So you MIG welded 4130 chrome-moly? Thats a big no no! You should never MIG weld 4130. In fact, by NHRA rule 4130 cannot be MIG welded, and MUST be heli-arced. By MIG welding chrome moly, you create small miscroscopic hairlane cracks in the weld itself and also in the surrounding area in the base metal. For this application, I doubt they will say anything and I am sure it will hold up fine...justfor your future reference though.
Kyle

 

Looks a little heavy. JK john it looks good.

art

 

good job man!

 

dude you sure thats not gonna take out your trunk..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boostin_elf &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dude you sure thats not gonna take out your trunk..</TD></TR></TABLE>

The chute isn't attached to the trunk, its attached to the frame welded to the cage. The bracket on the trunk just holds up the chute before it releases.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 89civicdx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

The chute isn't attached to the trunk, its attached to the frame welded to the cage. The bracket on the trunk just holds up the chute before it releases.</TD></TR></TABLE>

ok...just making sure bro

 

pimp

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blueoval557 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So you MIG welded 4130 chrome-moly? Thats a big no no! You should never MIG weld 4130. In fact, by NHRA rule 4130 cannot be MIG welded, and MUST be heli-arced. By MIG welding chrome moly, you create small miscroscopic hairlane cracks in the weld itself and also in the surrounding area in the base metal. For this application, I doubt they will say anything and I am sure it will hold up fine...justfor your future reference though.
Kyle</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah you defantly need to tig the 4130... and you must also preheat the metal and postheat it afterwards just to make sure it will have full potential as chromoly.... I think it looks great... I am thinking about making one for my car... good job

 

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Electron_LS-Vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Yeah you defantly need to tig the 4130... and you must also preheat the metal and postheat it afterwards just to make sure it will have full potential as chromoly.... I think it looks great... I am thinking about making one for my car... good job </TD></TR></TABLE>
Actually, you do not need to preheat or postheat anything of 4130 unless ULTIMATE strength is needed, which in that case you would use a more exotic metal than 4130. 4130 does just fine welded in a normal environment. None of the professional shops doing the high end drag cars pre or post heat 4130, its all done on a 2 inch thick steel table/jig out in the middle of the shop.
Dont want to argue, just clarifying....
Kyle