http://www.grizzly.com/product...G4030

Im in the market for a bandsaw and i like this one just wanted some opionions before I dropped the $$ for it. thanks

 

i have the size up from that one - i have nothing negative to say. i know people knock the off shore stuff but its not so bad if you take care of it, use real blades, the right fluids, etc. i have an old one as well, dake or doall, er something, (way dirty) anyway it works just the same, needs tlc or adjusting from time to time.

grizzly's weak link to me is in the details or where ever theres a critical point of functionality. a friend has one of there drill presses and the chuck it came with was a joke. he replaced it with a jacobs and wala - it works like one that cost 3 times as much. the rest of the unit is fine, plenty of torque, etc.
also, if youre doing onesy twosy personal stuff its a good value - if youre doing short run production-ish work, or your cranking out a cage a week, youll be dissapointed.

just my opinion.

 

Shoot, I'd settle for just one of these. Fab is right though, in criticial areas, they have cut corners.

Donnie

 

yeah i have one of those donnie... i just have a porblem of cutting straight with it.. haha.. what kind of work are you trying to do napier?

 

basic stuff cut tubing for i/c piping, makin manifolds, makin collectors. If i buy a saw I want quality though i dont wanna get a saw and it turn out to be junk. Can you guys reccomend any name brands to go with?

 

I have that same saw too. So far it's been good, but I have had a few issues with it I can't seem to figure out yet.

This first issue could be due to the blade tpi, but at times the blade begins to "bind up" in the piece being cut and cause the saw to start bouncing somewhat. I have the speed adjusted for the proper material and pulleys as tight as they can go so I'm not quite sure why it does this.

The gear box on it is a lot more convenient than belt changes though, I have to admit.

 

could be cause your applying to much pressure on the blade also..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 91TSiGuy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have that same saw too. So far it's been good, but I have had a few issues with it I can't seem to figure out yet.

This first issue could be due to the blade tpi, but at times the blade begins to "bind up" in the piece being cut and cause the saw to start bouncing somewhat. I have the speed adjusted for the proper material and pulleys as tight as they can go so I'm not quite sure why it does this.

The gear box on it is a lot more convenient than belt changes though, I have to admit.</TD></TR></TABLE> that's user error, not the saw itself.

 

Well, have you considered a metal cutting mitre saw? That would give you the precision you want for most applications.


Band saws are good, so long as you have a method to feed the item straight, or at the desired angle. Take into account, that most bandsaws and blades, have some walking to them, unless the tension of the blade is cranked up (most standard bandsaws will not tension enough without aftermarket springs, rods, etc.) Been there done that.

JMHAO


Donnie

 

Might be a silly question; Can you change the blade on a regular miter saw, to a blade that will cut metal without much trouble?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Riake &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Might be a silly question; Can you change the blade on a regular miter saw, to a blade that will cut metal without much trouble?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I would also like to know this, you can get some acurate angles on those miter saws...

 

the blades used on the metal cutting miter saws for steel are not meant to spin at the rpm of a standard wood saw
the metal cutting saws are about half the rpm
I also don't think I would use one for cutting IC ducting or other thim materials as they need to be clamped really well. If it slips you will ruin a very expensive blade. I own a makita and love it but only use it on thicker materials that clamp well in the vise. A good vertical band saw is a much better choice for doing allot of fab work like ducting and making the cuts required for merge collectors

 

About the metal blade in the miter saw done this bunch of times. THe RPMs are the same close enough if cut tons of metal stuff. But the actul on posted above works best.

Oh do not use ur dads saw cause the metal will gough the alum plate surface

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMCRX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Oh do not use ur dads saw cause the metal will gough the alum plate surface </TD></TR></TABLE>

What do you mean, Im not following.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KFMRC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the blades used on the metal cutting miter saws for steel are not meant to spin at the rpm of a standard wood saw, the metal cutting saws are about half the rpm. I also don't think I would use one for cutting IC ducting or other thim materials as they need to be clamped really well. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I know this wouldnt be the best solution, but Im not going to be trying to make IC kits, just my own DIY piping. So only a few cuts will be made. I used the actual blade that is on the saw now to cut some aluminum once, I know that it was a stupid Idea, but didnt know it at the time. It cut it fine, I think I only made two passes. I know aluminum is softer than steel, but I would just like to know if it would be ok fore a few passes with a metal cutting blade. However, I just need alternative solution that will make accurate cuts.

P.S. Sorry for thread jacking, I will make a new one if you want me to...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Riake &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

What do you mean, Im not following.

I know this wouldnt be the best solution, but Im not going to be trying to make IC kits, just my own DIY piping. So only a few cuts will be made. I used the actual blade that is on the saw now to cut some aluminum once, I know that it was a stupid Idea, but didnt know it at the time. It cut it fine, I think I only made two passes. I know aluminum is softer than steel, but I would just like to know if it would be ok fore a few passes with a metal cutting blade. However, I just need alternative solution that will make accurate cuts.

P.S. Sorry for thread jacking, I will make a new one if you want me to...
</TD></TR></TABLE>


well - anything is possible i guess - its just not a good idea for many reasons, safety being the first that comes to mind. i know a few guys that "cheat" by using wood working tools for aluminum and in THIN wall applications you can get away with it for the most part if you have the right cutter or blade in your tool. ive ran 120 flat stock over a jointer to get a 2 degree bevel once but i was working against the clock and it was purely to save time. (ive not done it since) when the material gets thicker youve got to slow everything down speed and heat wise, you need constant coolant, ie a cold saw type machine. if you cant get the right tool, at least get the right blade, whatever they use for choping gutters should work fine for you, AND - over engineer your clamping in order to save your fingers. good luck

 

Look in to Ellis bandsaws.

 

mine is a 8x12. good unit

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by @irborne &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> that's user error, not the saw itself.</TD></TR></TABLE>
This I realize, just haven't figured out the best setting to get around that. I don't have that problem with the small Harbor Freight saw I have as well but that's using an 18tpi blade.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Riake &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Might be a silly question; Can you change the blade on a regular miter saw, to a blade that will cut metal without much trouble?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes... just get a 10" or 12" metal cutting disk. I'm currently using my miter saw for cutting all of my piping. I had a HF bandsaw and that thing was a pile of **** so I ended up getting rid of it and using the miter saw.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by legendboy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">mine is a 8x12. good unit

</TD></TR></TABLE>

How much was that baby? I've been looking into buying a new bandsaw but I want to make sure I get one that is worth the money and won't walk all over the place. What types of bandsaws are you guys using out there to cut your collectors?