posting that on CB7 i was told its probably my motor mounts? well i did a little searching after that and realized on my accord i probably have four mounts? a front,rear,left,and right mount? correct me if im wrong please. oh,any suggestions on tackling this problem would be appreciated too. also i was wondering would it be alright to go used on the mounts?

 

yep u got 4 mounts the ones that mostly go bad is the frt and rear..............the rear mount if u have an AT trany is vacc operated liquid filled , vacc is applied to mount diaphram below 750 rpm to smoothen vibaration.......rear mont is the most expensive and longest time wise to replace . a few components have be removed including the left axle ..As for using used mounts,,,i cannot really give u my opinion because i have never replace motor mounts with used ones ...but if i were to replace mine especially the rar and do all that work i would want to make sure that the son of a gun would last me a few years ..

 

If you have an automatic it's pretty easy to check the mounts. (manual isn't that bad either)
Just hold a foot on the brake, put it in drive or reverse and give it a quick snap on the gas and watch the motor to see if it's trying to jump out of the engine bay. If it moves more than an inch or so in either gear you probably have a bad front or rear mount.

 

see im not sure that the problem i have is motor mount related for sure. this is what i was told on CB7. if anything else might come to mind,please list it for me. i was looking online for DIY's and saw a motor mount somewhere below the intake manifold. i havent found pics of the rest yet.

heres the rear motor mount. or as the DIY link told me:

http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=27485

 

i have the same problem with my 92 lx. I found out that the girl i bought it from hit a curb and bent the portion where the motor mount sits on the passenger side. So now the motor isnt balanced and replacing the front motor mount doesnt help the problem. Consenquently the rear mount wears out every couple years, replacing it helps the shaking a lot. But without straightening the frame, replacing the rear mount is the only solution. So i would say one or more of your mounts is worn out.

 

you had me on a roller coaster there. i was expecting something else that never came at all lol. but yeah,im pretty sure atleast one of the mounts are done,and yeah im sure replacing it would help SOMETHING atleast. thanks though

 

Here's your motor mount detail for your '90 accord

http://www.hondaautomotivepart...MOUNT

Pay particular attention to item #4, the rear mount. It is the one responsible for those teeth rattling, steering wheel shaking, stutter inducing vibrations from the engine at idle.

As deserthonda mentioned (and if he hasn't, he will) this puppy either leaks vacuum (notice the hose going to it?), or the vacuum has been interrupted.

P

D..b Spell checker wasn't working!! (Yah, RIGHT, anything you say...)


Modified by P_Adams at 3:56 PM 11/12/2005

 

http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/sh...ounts

poly-urathane?

if anyone might need that,theres the DIY. meanwhile ima keep checking around about that.

 

Although an intriguing idea, polyurethane motor mounts, I think firming up the rear mount would be ill-advised. reason?
The vibration you're feeling is due to the rear mount collapsing and allowing the engine to rock against the hard portion on the mount, transmitting the vibrations directly to the chassis.
I went to the link you posted, and their premise for what they're doing is wrong. Once the engine stops moving, (compresses against it's mounts) you're loosing nothing of torque and horsepower. Even during the transition period between stopped and cruising, there are no appreciable losses.
The only things gained will be higher vibration levels.

P

 

yeah its just a bunch of things that came up with the search. i figured someone might want to see it. as for me,i dont think i'll deal with that. i'll just stick to replacing em' with new ones. BUT what i wanna know is should i just replace all four? or the REAR for now?

 

IF, you have an Automatic (I presume you do). I would suggest confirming and then replace the rear one first. It's a royal pain to replace, but - most assuredly; it's the one to do.
You'll know I'm correct. It's the one that causes Teeth Grinding, Vision Blurring Butt Numbing vibrations that cause things like interior mirrors to fall off. (Somewhat like sitting on a Harley )

P

 

lol@that description.

but is the FIRST link i posted correct? is that the 'REAR' motor mount?

 

Rear, YES

As I related here:
http://www.hondaautomotivepart...MOUNT

Pay particular attention to item #4, the rear mount.

P

 

can you explain to me about the leak again? i dont really understand what you tried to say. could it be that my mount is fine and i just have a leak?

 

Yes. There is a supply system which feeds vacume to the mount. I suppose Honda could engineer it to use a pump, but that would have added weight and additional cost. Dam ingenious, those Japanese.
I believe the mount incorporates a chamber split into two halves, the lower open to atmosphere, a diaphram linked to the "engine" half of the mount and the upper chamber to which vacuum is applied.
If I understand the principle, the engine - thru it's link to the diaphram floats on the air pressure difference between the lower and upper chambers. There is also a fluid dampening part to all this too.

If the vacuum supply is damaged or inop, the mount will not work properly.

P

 

yes,my mount could be fine and i might only have a vacuum leak?

^if thats true,how can i check for the leak?

 

You need one of the two tools listed here.
A) Hand Held Vacuum Pump
B) Hand Held Vacuum Gauge

A) Apply vacuum to the mount. If it holds and maintains vacuum, it's ok (suspect supply system)
B) Attach Vacuum Gauge to vacuum sourse hose, if vacuum is seen below 750 rpm, supply system is ok (suspect mount)

P