i hear alot about damping and how some full coilovers come with adjustable damping whats the deal with it...dose it mean for say if the spring rates are 500lb/in i could make it fell softer or firmer then 500?? please explain

 

Some shocks are are single adjustable: they adjust rebound and compression at the same time with one point of adjustment.

Double adjustable: adjusts rebound and compression, each seperately.

4-way adjustable: adjust high and low speed rebound, high and low speed compression, each seperately. These are your expensive Moton, Ohlins, and Penske dampers.

But to answer your question: I dont have the best answer, but adjustable dampers let you control the rate at which the dampers deal with 'spring.'

There is, functionaly, no difference between what has been misconstruted as a 'full coilover' and a coilover-sleeve (Ground Control) over damper system. One just has a threaded shock body whereas one has a threaded sleeve/collar.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chrisw85 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Some shocks are are single adjustable: they adjust rebound and compression at the same time with one point of adjustment.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

this was from another thread

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRX Lee &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Also another reason that people are running max rebound at the rear and min rebound at the front is to get as great a rear bias as they can within the existing shock valving. If they had a valving that had a greater range or differential (or other suspension parts that were helping with the balance mix), normally the ideal front setting is not at the softest setting but might me toward a mid setting. Still the rears will likely be making more rear force (again within an appropriate valvingfor the shock) than the fronts. I think people who are at max and min are more at the most available forces and the least available forces and would use more if they had it.


Actually, you really don't want your rebound and compression ever tied together with a single adjustment if you can possibly avoid it. Rebound and compression to two totally different jobs and should not be tied together or otherwise to refine one you will have too little or too much of the other. Look around and you won't find any real serious racing shocks that tie the two together.
[QUOTE=icarp]as i understand , single adjustable shocks change both the bump and rebound in a fixed ratio usally at about 60%40%as you stiffen the shock up (end quote from icarp)


Also, technically the internal valving tools that you would change to get both to change in one mechanical motion are going to be very limiting in the amount of actual change that is occurring. If you look at dyno graphs, you will see that both normally don't make large changes if they are tied together. If both did make large changes, then that shock would suffer from greater compromises of one aspect or another.

There are several street shocks that do change both simultaneously but they are neither very technically advanced or really recommended for real racing. And they are being sold to folks who either don't know or at a price point where they don't care about the compromises.</TD></TR></TABLE>


from this thread
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1430546

 

the koni sports [just about evryone starts with] are 'single' adjustable, but like crxlee quoted from carp, the single adjustment adjusts the rebound and compression [bump] using one point [but at different rates/ratios relative to each other;] they get adjusted at the same time, but not at the same rates. I should have worded myself better. It is difficult to adjust rebound and bump with only one **** as the yellows have? Or am i not reading correctly into what CRXlee is saying.

I'd love to get double adjustable konis, but the good 'ol yellow sports will do for now....

 

Koni sports are rebound adjustable ONLY. Turning the *** in no way effects it's compression valving...

CRX Lee is saying that you do not want compression & rebound valving tied together at all because you would not want to fine tune those two elements at the exact same time (they are not related). Compression valving is more of a control of the unsprung mass of the suspension, while rebound tuning is more of a control of the chassis behavior. You certainly wouldn't want to stiffen the compression valving if your just trying to make the car oversteer a little more...

Please correct me if I've got my facts mixed up because I've never done any compression tuning...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94eg! &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Please correct me if I've got my facts mixed up...</TD></TR></TABLE>
No, you said it well.