I've just installed new springs and shocks. Negative camber on rear looks extreme. Going to alignment next week and will find out how much.
What brand of camber adjustment parts did you buy?

 

GET THE INGALLS KIT THE RUBBER ONES, QUIET RIDE, I HAVE THE KIT FROM COMPTECH WHICH IS THE INGALLS KIT, THEY ARE GREAT NO NOISE COMING FROM THE SUSPENSION

 

For the rear, you don't need a kit to get positive camber. Just add shims to the bolts on the upper control arm.

 

there was a link that explained about adding the shims on the control arm. does anyone happen to have it?

 

I don't remember seeing that link. But the disadvantage about adding shims to add positive camber is that the angle of increase would not be precise. For example, you add one shim to the left rear gives you +0.3 but add one shim to the right rear gives you +0.5.


[Modified by Wai, 11:59 PM 3/10/2002]

 

I have the ingalls with the poly bushings and I can feel the the difference, for me I get a littel better feel of the road. It may squeak but all it takes is 30 minutes to put grease on them again. I bought all 4 sets, but only installed the fronts.

 

Here is something a found on the web last year. I have used this to good effect. I think this solution is precise enough if you use good quality galvanized washers. I had my car aligned before and after a shock/spring install and the camber on the rear wheels was within 0.2 degrees. With me in the car, it would probably have been close to even.

The rear camber is corrected by shimming the upper control arms
(links) outboard. Add washers between the body and upper mount. Each
washer provides 1/2 degree of positive camber. Use thread-locking
compound with each new fastener. Be sure to add the same number of
washers to each bold.

INSTRUCTIONS:

Items you will need.

1 - Washers, use 3/8 galvanized washers (from Home Depot). For the
Eibach Pro-Kit (1.3") drop, I used 2 washers on each bolt. And you got
4 bolts, hence you will need a total of 8 washers.

2 - you might need new bolts if you put more than 2 washers. If that
is the case, use M10 x 30mm bolts. Home Depot has them, but I am not
sure if they have the same thread as factory bolts. The are cheap, so
pick your bolts of varied lenght, and if you don't need them, just
return them.

 

I have a progress alignment kit. My shop won't sell any other kind. They say that the others break easily and that the progress is the most reliable, however adjustment is harder to make.

Here are some sites:

http://www.digitalracer.com/catalog/...l.asp?pid=3308

http://www.optauto.com/webstore/prod...k=yes&dept=269
-Progress Camber Kits are designed to provide optimum tire wear after installing Sport Springs. For the Pivot Mount Type, new billet steel pivot mounts relocate the upper control arms further outboard. This moves the top of the tire out for additional positive camber. Polyurethane bushings improve cornering and drag launch. Includes Teflon grease, thread locker, and all necessary hardware. For the Ball Joint Type, new adjustable upper ball joints feature offset mounting studs. By rotating the new ball joints, positive or negative adjustments are possible. caster changes can also be made. A favorite for autocrossers, because street and racing settings are easy to make. For the Offset Bushing Type, new polyurethane bushings and offset steel inserts replace the rubber upper control arm bushings. Rotating the steel inserts moves the control arms for camber adjustment. Control arms are not included for all types.

Another good one: http://www.stylinconcepts.com/parts....bcategoryid/88


[Modified by SOMEguyFROMoregon, 4:02 PM 3/20/2002]