http://fastbrakes.com/shop/pro...d=165

seems like the Improvement would be worth it, and they dont cost that much really either. Also, could I use OEM sized brake pads with these? Lemm know!

-matt

 

im pretty sure pads are not stock size, they are taller but shorter
i did some research myself. hope this helps

 

anyone ever upgrade just the calipers?

 

You would need to have custom brackets made to mount those to stock rotors. It wouldn't be too difficult to do since Wilwood has all their mounting dimensions on their website. You could get a couple billet parts CNC'd. I have no idea what that would cost you though...

 

thanks for the reply man.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mattfeet &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">http://fastbrakes.com/shop/pro...d=165

seems like the Improvement would be worth it, and they dont cost that much really either. Also, could I use OEM sized brake pads with these? Lemm know!

-matt</TD></TR></TABLE>

hmm, not sure what the improvement would be over the stock calipers.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bad-monkey &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hmm, not sure what the improvement would be over the stock calipers.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Bad-Monkey's got a very good point. There is a LOT to learn about braking before you go changing things. Improvments to the stock braking system can be more difficult than you think.

I suggest you spend a couple hours reading over the FAQ & Technical sections at http://www.StopTech.com. These guys have great information on braking & how various changes will effect it. I learned almost everything about brakes from those guys...

 

whats a good bang for the buck on a brake kit to fit my 16''s? its on an integra. i figured that 11'' rotors with some 4 piston wilwood calipers would be ideal.

 

Ideal for what?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94eg! &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ideal for what?</TD></TR></TABLE>

i thought they would be an excellent upgrade to handle some daily driving ,maybe some road racing without spending an arm and a leg for brakes.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sky_captain &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i thought they would be an excellent upgrade to handle some daily driving ,maybe some road racing without spending an arm and a leg for brakes.</TD></TR></TABLE>

your stock brakes are more than ready to handle those things.

nice pads and good fluid goes a long way.

 

I defiently agree with bad-monkey.

Also avoid those nasty cross drilled rotors.

It's really hard to pick out the right upgrades when everybody is trying to sell you BLING & telling you it will help this & that...

 

im having a pony war with my friend in his integra type R. we built our engines at the same time with similar set ups, suspension is taking action right now, and brakes are coming up, he can do pads and good fluid as well, so i got to think ahead. his car breaks great and im looking for something similar or better. thanks guys

 

The problem you run into with swaping calipers is that it will alter your brake balance. Brake balance is what directly controls your stopping distance. OEM brake balance is setup very well from the factory, and shouldn't really be messed with without truly understanding what it is your doing. Here is a list of things that all effect brake balance:

Tires (depends on the amount of grip)
Rotor size
Caliper piston size
Center of gravity
Wheelbase
Weight distribution
Brake Proportioning valve
Pad compound (if different front to back)

Proper brake balance allows your tires to do the most work possible. In the end, that is all that matters when it comes to stopping distance. The trick is to get the rear brakes to do as much work as possible without locking up before the fronts. If your rear brakes were to lock up first, you're car will spin out.

Here is a great article about brake balance (click me). It really explains how brakes work.

If you want to stop in a shorter distance, you change your brake bias.
If you want faster repeatablitiy, you would want to increase fade resistance.
If you want more consistentcy, you increase the systems stiffness.
If you want it all, prepare to shell out some big bucks...

What is it that your looking for?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94eg! &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you want to stop in a shorter distance, you change your brake bias.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well you'll need to get better tires first Tires are what ultimately determine stopping distance, since thats your traction on the road.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94eg! &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The problem you run into with swaping calipers is that it will alter your brake balance. Brake balance is what directly controls your stopping distance. OEM brake balance is setup very well from the factory, and shouldn't really be messed with without truly understanding what it is your doing. Here is a list of things that all effect brake balance:

Tires (depends on the amount of grip)
Rotor size
Caliper piston size
Center of gravity
Wheelbase
Weight distribution
Brake Proportioning valve
Pad compound (if different front to back)

Proper brake balance allows your tires to do the most work possible. In the end, that is all that matters when it comes to stopping distance. The trick is to get the rear brakes to do as much work as possible without locking up before the fronts. If your rear brakes were to lock up first, you're car will spin out.

Here is a great article about brake balance (click me). It really explains how brakes work.

If you want to stop in a shorter distance, you change your brake bias.
If you want faster repeatablitiy, you would want to increase fade resistance.
If you want more consistentcy, you increase the systems stiffness.
If you want it all, prepare to shell out some big bucks...

What is it that your looking for?</TD></TR></TABLE>

nice article.

it also isn't as simple as slapping new calipers onto your car. aside from the bracket, there's also the issue of plumbing. is the stock MC in your car big enough to accomodate the increase in required volume to move the pistons in the new calipers?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bad-monkey &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

nice article.

it also isn't as simple as slapping new calipers onto your car. aside from the bracket, there's also the issue of plumbing. is the stock MC in your car big enough to accomodate the increase in required volume to move the pistons in the new calipers? </TD></TR></TABLE>

i just read about that a few minutes ago what about 4th gen preludes vtec, why are their brakes bad? they have the same rotor and pads (calipers too?)as 5th gen and the integra type r, yet they brake much worse. any specific reason? i was concidering prelude brakes.

 

With good pads, fresh fluid and rotors, and good tires they brake just fine - just like most every honda out there

 

thanks RJ, but a stock 4th gen prelude doesnt have the best brakes. i was wondering if the 5th gen brakes better due to a better MC or thickness of rotor or just goblins in the 4th gens up to no good. my gsr seems to brake better than my friends prelude as well, and according to car and driver, in 1995 best bang for the buck, the vtec prelude was the worst braking car in the bunch, under the z28, sentra ser, gst eclipse, integra gsr, del sol si vtec and a bunch more. what causes it to brake bad?

 

oh yeah, i got a fresh set of hankook rs2 on my car right now

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sky_captain &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks RJ, but a stock 4th gen prelude doesnt have the best brakes.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Pads, fluid, tires.... I've driven them, they seem to stop fine to me

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">in 1995 best bang for the buck, the vtec prelude was the worst braking car in the bunch, under the z28, sentra ser, gst eclipse, integra gsr, del sol si vtec and a bunch more. what causes it to brake bad? </TD></TR></TABLE>

There's a lot of factors at work there - are we talking about shortest stopping distance? The car's heavy weight for a FWD and narrow front tires isnt going to help, but it can be over come

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
There's a lot of factors at work there - are we talking about shortest stopping distance? The car's heavy weight for a FWD and narrow front tires isnt going to help, but it can be over come </TD></TR></TABLE>

yes, it was the worst in shortest stoping distance, but i see where your getting , but...the 5th gen is heavier and brakes faster with the same size rotor and caliper, thats what is driving me mad.