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Nitrous in a 99, basically stock.

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Old Nov 7, 2005 | 08:03 PM
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Default Nitrous in a 99, basically stock.

Hey I did a search on nitrous, and all it's differing terms (n20, nos, nawwwws), but didn't get too many results.

I have a short ram intake and will probably have a catback exhaust (the car is in storage right now), but that is probably it for the time being.

I was thinking of going with a 50 shot dry setup, which seems to be relatively safe according to some. I don't drive aggressively, and will probably not use this all that much. I'd say maybe once a week, something like that. Also, what kind of gains should I expect with a 50 shot? Current 1/4 time is around 15.5.

I don't want to ruin my car. Is it safe to assume this will be a safe thing to do? Should I see about getting a vafc and tune for it?
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Old Nov 7, 2005 | 09:05 PM
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Default Re: Nitrous in a 99, basically stock. (RudeLude95)

i recommend you get a wet nitrous system .... the dry type is good but you will be limited to about a 60 shot... just my 2 cents
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Old Nov 7, 2005 | 09:09 PM
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Default Re: Nitrous in a 99, basically stock. (SUB-0 H23)

You must not of done a indepth search then. Ive seen so many threads over nitrous.
NOS isnt safe for a stock engine in my opinion. You wouldnt want the VAFC for NOS, youd want Hondata, and with only a intake on it, Id suggest getting full exhaust and maybe valve train work before you juice it. From the sound of it budget might be an issue on yourself, but Wet systems the way to go, dry systems are dangerious and cant be upgraded to much. but I dont recommend nitrous.
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Old Nov 8, 2005 | 08:23 AM
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Well I can't do anything invasive with the computer of the car because of NYS emissions laws: the car is plugged into a state computer and it's emissions stuff is recorded. So Hondata is out of the question.

VAFC or another piggyback controller is the only option I have with tuning.

Really though it's not safe? I always thought it'd be okay, as long as I don't do anything above a 50 shot (which is probably all I want anyways...). It seems you're doing okay with a dry setup there sub-0; 217 whp isn't too bad considering you didn't do too much with the engine itself.

But lets say I do go with a wet setup, what kind of things should I change with that? Timing, distrubution, plugs etc etc right?
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Old Nov 8, 2005 | 08:47 AM
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Default Re: (RudeLude95)

fuel delivery, and management. But I still recommend upgrading the engine before you juice it.
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Old Nov 9, 2005 | 02:03 PM
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I thought this was a relatively easy mod to do.

Crap...
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Old Nov 9, 2005 | 02:10 PM
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i ran a 75 shot wet for only about 5 bottles. now my rings are burnt to **** and my valves tick like a bitch. my compression is around 130-140 across. it was fun but i regret it. im going to have to get a rebuild or new motor, and my lude is an 01.
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Old Nov 9, 2005 | 02:20 PM
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Default Re: (DTPrelude)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DTPrelude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i ran a 75 shot wet for only about 5 bottles. now my rings are burnt to **** and my valves tick like a bitch. my compression is around 130-140 across. it was fun but i regret it. im going to have to get a rebuild or new motor, and my lude is an 01.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah but did you do it right? or did you throw on a nitrous kit and start playing w/ jet sizes?
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Old Nov 9, 2005 | 02:30 PM
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I only want to do a 50 shot though, which seems a lot less destructive.
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Old Nov 9, 2005 | 03:38 PM
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Default Re: (RudeLude95)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RudeLude95 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I thought this was a relatively easy mod to do.

Crap...</TD></TR></TABLE>

ok if you are positive that all you want a 50 shot (rated to the flywheel), then buy a dry kit... for a 50 shot you do not need anything else but the kit it self...

i personally would go w/ NOS brand...

the good points of the of a dry kit are:

1. it uses the stock fuel injectors to spray the extra fuel
a. avoids fuel puddling, which would cause backfires
b. the location and atomization of the fuel injectors &gt; fogger nozzle
2. you could place the nitrous nozzle further away from the TB
a. cools down the inlet air charge
b. better nitrous distribution

finally do some research and check out this link
http://holley.com/TechService/FAQ.asp?category=NOS
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Old Nov 9, 2005 | 03:59 PM
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Default Re: (SUB-0 H23)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DTPrelude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i ran a 75 shot wet for only about 5 bottles. now my rings are burnt to **** and my valves tick like a bitch. my compression is around 130-140 across. it was fun but i regret it. im going to have to get a rebuild or new motor, and my lude is an 01.</TD></TR></TABLE>


This is along the lines of what I was telling you earlier. Dont juice it if you dont build for it.. and if you dont I hope you dont mind rebuilding your engine. Dry or wet it doesnt matter, your still adding something that the engine might disagree with. I dont consider nitrious a simple mod, i/h/e and valvetrain work are easy mods. And the diffrence is that they last. But do what you like.
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Old Nov 9, 2005 | 05:46 PM
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Default Re: (revlimitx04)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by revlimitx04 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This is along the lines of what I was telling you earlier. Dont juice it if you dont build for it.. and if you dont I hope you dont mind rebuilding your engine. Dry or wet it doesnt matter, your still adding something that the engine might disagree with. I dont consider nitrious a simple mod, i/h/e and valvetrain work are easy mods. And the diffrence is that they last. But do what you like.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Please explain how nitrous will make a stockmotor not last. I have seen my share of stock H series beat to **** with just I/E/H not last because of drivers
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Old Nov 9, 2005 | 06:03 PM
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bro u'l be perfectly fine, ive been spraying a 50 shot on my motor for a very long time and everything has been fine...btw if u need it, im selling me FULL nitrous kit, with evrything u would need. pm me
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Old Nov 9, 2005 | 06:11 PM
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Default Re: (revlimitx04)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by revlimitx04 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


This is along the lines of what I was telling you earlier. Dont juice it if you dont build for it.. and if you dont I hope you dont mind rebuilding your engine. Dry or wet it doesnt matter, your still adding something that the engine might disagree with. I dont consider nitrious a simple mod, i/h/e and valvetrain work are easy mods. And the diffrence is that they last. But do what you like.</TD></TR></TABLE>Dude, you dont even know. Have you ran nitrous? Im gonna guess no. Me, along with 100000 other guys have, beat the **** outa it and had no problems. As long as your not stupid you wont break anything. Just follow the rules and you can spray your *** off no problem.

And another thing, go with NX, their product is far superior to any other off the shelf kit. Better, more reliable and it will make more power.
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Old Nov 9, 2005 | 06:14 PM
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Default Re: Nitrous in a 99, basically stock. (revlimitx04)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by revlimitx04 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You must not of done a indepth search then. Ive seen so many threads over nitrous.
NOS isnt safe for a stock engine in my opinion. You wouldnt want the VAFC for NOS, youd want Hondata, and with only a intake on it, Id suggest getting full exhaust and maybe valve train work before you juice it. From the sound of it budget might be an issue on yourself, but Wet systems the way to go, dry systems are dangerious and cant be upgraded to much. but I dont recommend nitrous.</TD></TR></TABLE>This quote is great.......ever heard the old saying, "the blind leading the blind?"

Not to double post.....
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Old Nov 9, 2005 | 07:06 PM
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Default Re: (RudeLude95)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RudeLude95 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well I can't do anything invasive with the computer of the car because of NYS emissions laws: the car is plugged into a state computer and it's emissions stuff is recorded. So Hondata is out of the question.

VAFC or another piggyback controller is the only option I have with tuning.

Really though it's not safe? I always thought it'd be okay, as long as I don't do anything above a 50 shot (which is probably all I want anyways...). It seems you're doing okay with a dry setup there sub-0; 217 whp isn't too bad considering you didn't do too much with the engine itself.

But lets say I do go with a wet setup, what kind of things should I change with that? Timing, distrubution, plugs etc etc right?</TD></TR></TABLE>


just to let you know, you can't chip your p13 anyway. so get a auto p28 converted, a manual p28, or a p72 computer and use that for chipping. then, when emissions come around, switch the computer.

also, nitrous pours that power on instantly; this takes a toll on your clutch if it's stock. you may go through your clutch rather quickly.

i'd say you're fine as long as your tuned. you're putting no more stress on the engine with that 50 shot as if you were put in a header and cams to get you to the same hp level (217 or w/e you'd have). the only thing better about going the nitrous route is that it's cheaper.
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Old Nov 9, 2005 | 07:36 PM
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by yOnKiNaToR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just to let you know, you can't chip your p13 anyway. so get a auto p28 converted, a manual p28, or a p72 computer and use that for chipping. then, when emissions come around, switch the computer.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah but any kind of computer modification is illegal and will prevent me from passing. That's why a vafc or a greddy emanage is pretty much my only choice, other than switching the computers. But that seems a little too involved...and costly. I'm not being cheap, I expect to pay probably around a 1200 or so after all is said and done. Or AM I being cheap? I dunno I'm confused at this point. I'll have about 3000 sitting around after I sell the 95. S2000 seats, new wheels/tires, thermal exhaust, and nitrous is what I was planning on getting. That's going to eat up most of that 3000 pretty easily I think.

I expect things like the clutch to wear out faster; I'd be dumb not to. You're putting more power to the car, and that stress has to go somewhere.

But I'm suprised to see that it would be tough on the engine itself. I don't drive really aggressively, I just like having the speed there, just to know it's there. I dunno if that makes sense to everyone...but there are others who are like me.

And what about the NX system makes it better? A lot of people are going with the zex system, because it automatically adjusts the mixture, and it's easier to set up because everything is in it's own pre-manufactured box. Just wondering...
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Old Nov 9, 2005 | 07:41 PM
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Default Re: (RudeLude95)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RudeLude95 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Yeah but any kind of computer modification is illegal and will prevent me from passing. That's why a vafc or a greddy emanage is pretty much my only choice, other than switching the computers. But that seems a little too involved...and costly. I'm not being cheap, I expect to pay probably around a 1200 or so after all is said and done. </TD></TR></TABLE>


switching the computers is wicked easy.(just disconnect 2 harness plugs and plug them back in the other computer). tuning with uberdata is actually the same price or cheaper than emanage or vafc.
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Old Nov 9, 2005 | 07:47 PM
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My tuner will not tune with uberdata. He is explicit about this. Isn't that all OBD1 anyways though?
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Old Nov 9, 2005 | 07:50 PM
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Default Re: (RudeLude95)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RudeLude95 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
And what about the NX system makes it better? A lot of people are going with the zex system, because it automatically adjusts the mixture, and it's easier to set up because everything is in it's own pre-manufactured box. Just wondering...
</TD></TR></TABLE>

The construction of the parts of an NX kit are far better. Their solenoids are tough, really tough. Far stronger than most base level NOS solenoids. As for the ZEX, its not a bad kit for someone that doesnt know much about nitrous and wants a kit, but its not a kit that is gonna make the best power and best results. Ive installed and used both and I can tell you that youll be happiest taking some time to learn what you are doing and using a nitrous express kit.

Stock motor, I-H-E, as a baseline, I made 42 whp and 65 ft lbs on an NX 35 shot. Yes 35 shot. The proof is in the pudding. And yes I have dynos to show it.
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Old Nov 9, 2005 | 07:55 PM
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So with an short ram and and an exhaust, with a 50 shot, I should be making around another 50 hp.

BTW was that 42 with or without tuning?
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Old Nov 9, 2005 | 07:56 PM
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plug and play.....no vafc tuning, nothing.....
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Old Nov 9, 2005 | 08:04 PM
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Wow that is quite impressive. How long have you had your engine since then?
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Old Nov 9, 2005 | 09:35 PM
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4 years, but since then I rebuilt it (not because anything was broken). I now run a fully built crower stocked head, and type s bottom. Still sprayin.....
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Old Nov 10, 2005 | 02:59 PM
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Default Re: (NXLude)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NXLude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Dude, you dont even know. Have you ran nitrous? Im gonna guess no. Me, along with 100000 other guys have, beat the **** outa it and had no problems. As long as your not stupid you wont break anything. Just follow the rules and you can spray your *** off no problem.

And another thing, go with NX, their product is far superior to any other off the shelf kit. Better, more reliable and it will make more power.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well said
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