i think i might have air in my coolant system.. so how would one go about changing it properly? just draining it from the plug on the bottom of the radatior? and adding more or is there some type of vaccum or pump that i need? its a b18b in a 98 civic

 

Not sure but look at the water neck...there may be a bleed bolt/screw/nipple. Bleed it there.

 

wouldnt i need to put some kinda pressure on the system or is there already? iv'e never dont this obviously

 

Well, there are a few things you can do:

1. A coolant system flush. You can do this at most local shops/repair facilities. Even some "quick-lube" places have the machine. It will flush out your coolant system and put new coolant in. It's good if you haven't changed/maintained your coolant in a long time. It'll clean out all the deposits and goo stuck in the system.

2. You can drain your coolant and add more in. This doesn't really empty the coolant in the actual block or other nooks and crannies of the engine. It usually isn't an issue. There is usually a drain plug on the bottom of the radiator. Drain it.

Afterwards, make sure you have a 50/50 mixture of coolant/water (distilled if you have it). Fill up the radiator with it. Start up the car and have it idle for a while until the thermostat opens. The coolant/water level in the radiator will drop when the mixture enters the engine/heater core/etc. Pour some more in the radiator. Then cap it off. If you wish, you can also fill the reservoir container to the mark. This is essentially bleeding the system.

3. Or, you can remove your engine and tip it sideways and let the coolant come out of the block drain.

Or just tip your car forward and stand it on the bumper. Then remove the block plug. I think that's a good idea too.


Modified by shamoo at 7:19 PM 11/7/2005

 

The system will be pressurized once you start the car and warm in up. Youll bleed the car when its started. Start the car and let it warm up so that the fan turns on ...this way your therm. will open...then, Just break the bolt open then close it...slowly open the valve until alittle fluid comes out. You'll see air escaping every so often. Once you start getting a constistent stream, your system is bled.

Keep your over-flow tank at max.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shamoo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

3. Or, you can remove your engine and tip it sideways and let the coolant come out of the block drain. </TD></TR></TABLE>


LMAO...

 

Just bleed the system...no need to flush the coolant.

 

You don't have to change your coolant if there is air in the system. If you do bleed it without the machines your still leaving old coolant in the engine anyways. You don't need pressure cuz most of it will gravity feed out of the drain valve. Depending on what gen there location is diffrent. Atleast as far as I know.
If you want to get your air out of the system though pretty much start her up take the radiator cap off let the fan kick on a couple of time by then all of the air should have found its way out.
Any ways hopes this helps
Oh yea try searching there is a bunch of articles relating to this. Try team integra also

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by C-speed Racer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The system will be pressurized once you start the car and warm in up. Youll bleed the car when its started. Start the car and let it warm up so that the fan turns on ...this way your therm. will open...then, Just break the bolt open then close it...slowly open the valve until alittle fluid comes out. You'll see air escaping every so often. Once you start getting a constistent stream, your system is bled.

Keep your over-flow tank at max.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Just do this....

 

I agree with above said statment!!
Ooops see what happens when you don't read the entire thread I agree with above ignore my last.

 

also one more question on the topic sort of.. my engine temp gauge on the cluster is always on c and every now and then moves up to the half way point..doesnt matter if its cold or hot outside its changes when i drive i can be at the light for awhile it it will still be on C or driving and still be on C bad temp sensor?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b_serious &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">also one more question on the topic sort of.. my engine temp gauge on the cluster is always on c and every now and then moves up to the half way point..doesnt matter if its cold or hot outside its changes when i drive i can be at the light for awhile it it will still be on C or driving and still be on C bad temp sensor?</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's kinda strange. Have you checked to see if you even have a thermostat in there?

 

nope =/ i guess i should just do a major tune up and see what happens