Just got my car back from the dyno. Impressed with the gains but not the top HP. The SC belt was slipping and apparently I was only making about 125 hp on the first pull. Once fited I gained considerable.
WHy is it that ppl say that the H22 makes 195 hp and here my prelude with a JRSC and tons of other bolt-ons makes a max of 170+? Is this 195 at the crank?
I just am sick of dumping money into preludes without being able to beat and handful of midgrade stck cars. Im serously considering a dry 50 shot although apparently its not compatible with the superchager. That or either bite the bullet and get a V8 which I dont want to do. I just dont have $3000+to get a built engine.
What is one to do?




Modified by preludeshdriver at 5:54 AM 11/7/2005

 

ouch

 

my JDM H22a makes 178 at the wheels I/H/E Cam Gears and Pulley's, you got something wrong if your Super Charged....


and yes the USDM H22a4 Makes 195 at the Flywheel about 160-165 to the wheels.... something is wrong with your lude...

 

What gear did you dyno in? 5th? A stock H22 puts down about 160whp. Basic bolt-ons and a JRSC should be over 200

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by InvaderTrax &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What gear did you dyno in? 5th? A stock H22 puts down about 160whp. Basic bolt-ons and a JRSC should be over 200</TD></TR></TABLE>

jus said that....

 

what do you mean by tons of bolt ons....theyre not all the same....you could have saved the money you spent on tons of bolt ons, and got a custom header made for your application by RMF and put down WAY more hp than that....i put down more than that on a dynapack with just an rmf header....

keep in mind that those are dynapack numbers, which read somewhat low...nobody can ever agree on anything about it, but i would say a 10% conversion factor is about right to get dyno jet #s....so you put down somewhere near 190whp dynojet....

the tuning job looks terrible, you need to find a good tuner....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mgags7 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what do you mean by tons of bolt ons....theyre not all the same....you could have saved the money you spent on tons of bolt ons, and got a custom header made for your application by RMF and put down WAY more hp than that....i put down more than that on a dynapack with just an rmf header.... </TD></TR></TABLE>

As far as the bolt ons are concerned I have the following:DC header,rsr cat back, vr2 CAI,msd ignition,nology wires and honda s200.
I understand the fact that a RMF header is good and eventually, if I stick with this car, I will buy one. I bought the car like this for $5000 and havent spent any money on bolt ons. I seriously doubt you put down more horsepower with your lude with JUST a RMF header.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mgags7 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

the tuning job looks terrible, you need to find a good tuner.... </TD></TR></TABLE>
As far as the tuner goes I believe you are jumping to conslusion. Infact this person owns and operate his own shop, owns his own dynapack, is a AEM EMS trained tech and tunes cars 6 days a week.
Reagardless I believe the belt may still be slipping although I did gets boost reads from the dyno. I will include them in this thread asap but it was boosting nearly 10psi between 4500 and 5800 rpms. This brings me to another question. I thought if there the stock 5-6 pound pulley on the SC that thats the most it would boost. ?

 

preludesh, is that dynojet or dynapack? list all your mods please. remember every motor and dyno places are different. compare your sc lude to a non sc lude on the same dyno place. im only making 205hp and 176tq on dynapack. stock lude on the same dynapack is 155 i believe.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PreludeRGuY &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">preludesh, is that dynojet or dynapack? list all your mods please. remember every motor and dyno places are different. compare your sc lude to a non sc lude on the same dyno place. im only making 205hp and 176tq on dynapack. stock lude on the same dynapack is 155 i believe.</TD></TR></TABLE>
This is a dynapack. I d like to know what your running to get those numbers. Are you running the stock pulley? What is it, 5lb or 6lb?
Heres a complete list of perfomance mods:
DC header,
rsr cat back,
vr2 CAI,
msd ignition/ box/cap,
nology wires
hondata s200
RC440s injactors
AEM fuel rail/regulator
fluidyne radiator
greddy crank case cooler
oil cooler

I have acessory pulleys and was going to buy a unorthadox ssc crank pulley but now Im not sure I want to even bother. I just thought I could get alot more HP to the pavement before going turbo,building the engine and lowering compression.
Also. the supercharger does occasionally make a wierd hum when you let of the gas, if you push the clutch in it seems to stop though.


Modified by preludeshdriver at 4:29 PM 11/7/2005

 

im running on aem short ram, dc headers, greddy sp, msd ignition, magnecore wires, denso iridium 1 step colder plugs, 6lb jrsc, vafc2, exedy clutch and 14 lb flywheel. im running on stock injectors and still obd2. r u sure ur tuned?

 

heres my thread @ http://www.superhonda.com/foru...pp=20

 

WTF??? jackson racing has a dyno sheet of a lude with I/H/E and SC at 6 psi putting down nearly 250 whp.. i was just about to buy a JRSC, but if you guys are only puttin down just about 200, i might just say expletive it..

 

For reference (mustang dyno):

 

just for reference, i said only rmf header, i had a 50 dollar intake and the usual catback....
jdm h22a
replica j's racing intake ($50)
rmf header
2.5 thru to catback
60mm catback

tuned on a p72/s200




i dont know about any dynapacks that stock preludes put down more than 135-140, so if you factor that in....convert 140 to 165 thats about 18% off....so you take my numbers
183 +18% = 215.94 (i really dont think it would make that much on a dynojet but who knows)

your number 172 (maybe, its hard to see) and add 18% you get 202whp

however much i am off, so are you....so obviously something is really holding you back
it is either
belt slipping
shitty bolt ons (cough cough)
shitty tuner - i dont give a **** what his certifications are, look at your curves, they are messier than my 2 year old brother's bib while he is shoveling down gerber mush....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
As far as the tuner goes I believe you are jumping to conslusion. Infact this person owns and operate his own shop, owns his own dynapack, is a AEM EMS trained tech and tunes cars 6 days a week.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Get off your tuner's nuts. Point is, he sucks ***** - big hairy ones. That is a shitty tune - and although I don't tune vehicles, I know the power and torque curves should be WAY smoother. Thats freakin rediculous. You should stayed stock - you probably would have made more power.

Also, I suggest you to NOT run a dry shot until you fix whatever is wrong with your lude. Something is definately wrong.....what ecu are you running with the hondata? Maybe its knocking or something.............and ignition is retarded &lt;---ha

 

How about a compression test? Is your cam timing correct?

As I am sure you know that is super weak. Even if the tune is good if the motor is messed up then your numbers are not going to be good.

Pirate

 

Are you still on the stock clutch?

 

I agree with mgags, find a better tuner.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TheKingPin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Get off your tuner's nuts. Point is, he sucks ***** - big hairy ones. That is a shitty tune - and although I don't tune vehicles, I know the power and torque curves should be WAY smoother. Thats freakin rediculous.

</TD></TR></TABLE>
As much as I would like to think that is was a shitty tuning if the car is messed up it doesnt matter who the tuner is. Im dont know how you can call nearly a 50hp gain a "shitty tune". Im not on anyones nuts im just stating the facts,
If the tuner sucked big harry ***** then I think he would be out of business, not dyno tuning cars for a living.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TheKingPin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
You should stayed stock - you probably would have made more power.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Again, I bought the car like this. I had a 97 sh before with stage2 cams/valvetrain upgrade i/h/e intake manifold, 74mm throttle body and an AEM EMS. This car would not touch my current prelude and it was definetly not "stock".
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TheKingPin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Also, I suggest you to NOT run a dry shot until you fix whatever is wrong with your lude. Something is definately wrong.....what ecu are you running with the hondata? Maybe its knocking or something.............and ignition is retarded &lt;---ha </TD></TR></TABLE>
I dont want to but nos on my daily driver. Like anyone would be, I am fusterated with the numbers its producing.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PirateMcFred &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How about a compression test? Is your cam timing correct?
Pirate</TD></TR></TABLE>

When the car was bought the compression was checked and it check out ok. Im not sure if the timing was checked although it is still the stock cams/gears so it is less liklely that something would be off.


Modified by preludeshdriver at 5:10 PM 11/7/2005

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LudeyKrus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Are you still on the stock clutch?</TD></TR></TABLE>
yes, I have a stage 2 and chrome moly flywheel but its not installed yet. Was waiting to see oif this car is even worth keeping.

 

Post up your .bin file and I'll tell you if your tuner knows what he's doing or not. When there are mechanical problems on a car, it doesn't matter how good of a tuner you are. There is only so much you can do. I would do a compression or leakdown test on your engine and see what type of results you get. If they are bad... then chances are you probably recieved a shitty tune. Got any AF readings on your dyno graphs?

On a side note... I see you have a SH tranny.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by preludeshdriver &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> As much as I would like to think that is was a shitty tuning if the car is messed up it doesnt matter who the tuner is. Im dont know how you can call nearly a 50hp gain a "shitty tune". Im not on anyones nuts im just stating the facts,
If the tuner sucked big harry ***** then I think he would be out of business, not dyno tuning cars for a living.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

his business probably consists of people with similar mindsets....too ignorant to realize hes teh suck

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by preludeshdriver &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Again, I bought the car like this. I had a 97 sh before with stage2 cams/valvetrain upgrade i/h/e intake manifold, 74mm throttle body and an AEM EMS. This car would not touch my current prelude and it was definetly not "stock". </TD></TR></TABLE>

well then you can obviously see that the numbers are no appropriate showing of what the car can do, either that or you used the same shitty tuner the last time too....

 

When was the last time you changed your spark plugs. Fouled plugs can lead to choppy power curves.

 

The belt was slipping a ton, we didn't do a compression test, although probably should have. Boost pressure was leaking out of the throttle body, every time we let off it would make a honking noise out of the tb. The air fuel was between 11.8-12.2. And timing was advanced, but every pull we did, the boost would flucuate so greatly. Power was dropping due to boost dropping off. Here is the last run we did, with an afr plot.

 

Here is a graph before tuning, we basically came to a point where the car would not respond to any more tuning do to the underlying issues. Anyone that tunes cars can tell you that tuning will not fix mechanical problems, we decided on a point where nothing more would be gained, until everything else was fixed first.